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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4350

United Kingdom 
Painting new hinges - Advice on best method
Ok folks so I have just bought a new set of hinges for Miffy and would like them to be painted in her Oslo blue (paint code 644 just in case anyone ever wants to know).

I am planning on a rattle can spray job as my garage is under construction at the moment. I am a decent spray painter with a can but have not done an awful lot of proper spray jobs, mostly satin black jobs on bar work.

The hinges will be bare metal.

What is the best method to achieving a decent paint job?

Presume;

    Acid etch,
    base,
    colour...


...and then I don't know. Do I rub down and add another coat or two before finishing with a lacquer coat?

If rubbing down what grade of paper is best? and how long between coats?

Thanks in advance...
Post #733806 9th Oct 2018 11:14am
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gilarion



Member Since: 05 Dec 2013
Location: Wales
Posts: 5084

Wales 2007 Defender 90 Other CSW Trident Green
Have a look at this video top job on hinges.

 For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at..

http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1
Post #733813 9th Oct 2018 11:59am
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NickMc



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1546

Northern Ireland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
Panel wipe
Etch or epoxy primer - you only need 1 very light coat of etch as is just for a key.
Some sort of high build primer- light coats and lots of them
Sanding depending on finish if out of a rattle can 320 to 600
Panel wipe
Basecoat- if metallic you might want to do the last as a “drop coat” basically further away light coat do you get a nice metallic.
Panel wipe
Clear coat (something with a good UV rating) if out of a rattle can at least 5 coats.


You are better with lots of light coats and patience especially with a rattle can job.


I’m not a fan of hycote paint he’s used. A rattle can job is only ever going to be so good.
Post #733839 9th Oct 2018 2:59pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19452

United Kingdom 
I would be inclined to etch, then use P38 filler then sand. Then Epoxy primer and sand, base, clear.
Not forgetting panel wipe and tac cloths.
Not a fan of Hi build primer, it leaves many 'pin holes' commonly and both etch and Hi build are porous and can take on moisture.
Slightest chip and you'll get paint lift. Epoxy before base is water resistant so you can nicely wet sand with 600 before base.

Everyone has their own method though, trouble is if you skip the etch and went straight for epoxy is I wouldn't like to guarantee it's longevity adhesion wise to cast metal.
Much like Aluminium for lifting, and also you'd need a perfect surface before painting which isn't possible with cast parts.

Hi build will also soak up a lot more paint.

I would try and get the surface as good as you possibly can before abd painting or priming states abd that will result in less work further on down the line.

Rattle can Upol power cans are good, good brand and have a fan spray nozzle replicating results similar to spray guns.
Which is the bet you can expect from an aerosol.
I never use any with a standard nozzle any more unless they are for a basic primer. Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧
Post #733846 9th Oct 2018 3:16pm
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OsloBlue



Member Since: 14 Jul 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 822

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Oslo Blue
DiD YoU SaY OSlO BLuE?
O S L O B L U E
S
L
O
B
L
U
E

I'd recommend procuring paint from car colour services just down the road from me in romford, Helped me get lots of OSlO BLuE

Can't recommend the etching method, but just a primer. I'm on IG: https://www.instagram.com/osloblue42/
Current: TD5 '110 "Lucinda" Thread here: https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic62562.html
Post #733870 9th Oct 2018 6:45pm
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