 | Home > Td5 > Doubts on flushing coolant defender TD5 - help!!! |
 
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| sherifsalem Member Since: 02 Jan 2013 Location: Porto Posts: 96   
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Hi gents
I was about to to start flushing the td5 collant that have topped but not changed for 10 years. I have the following doubts My model is a 2005 defender td5 and my doubts are generated from the work shop manual 1- the manual talks about a drain plug that I can’t find. 2- position heater temperature control to maximum hot position ???? What is this , is that doable ? Can I skip this as well ?  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge The photo below is from under the landy and it is all rubber without a visible drain plug , Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Happy Travel www.thegippo.wordpress.com |
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22nd Sep 2018 8:45pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 7686 
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On the td5 the temp lever doesn't control how much coolant goes through the matrix so it doesn't matter where it is when you drain.
There is a fill point on top of rad hose, didn't know there was a drain plug. Just pull hose from bottom rad Cheers James 110 XS Utility 130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making) 90 Puma Hardtop |
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22nd Sep 2018 8:57pm |
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| sherifsalem Member Since: 02 Jan 2013 Location: Porto Posts: 96
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Thank you very much gents for clarifying.
Mine Dorsetsmith doesnt have definitely the plug and ..... what was i thinking about the heater  got it has nothing really to do with the coolant Happy Travel
www.thegippo.wordpress.com |
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22nd Sep 2018 9:51pm |
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| lightning Member Since: 23 Apr 2009 Location: High Peak, Derbyshire Posts: 2240 
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I just removed the bottom hose from the radiator although l didn’t get all the old coolant out that way. When l came to refill it l got in about two litres less than the manual said it should take.
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22nd Sep 2018 10:41pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19574
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You really want the lowest drain pipe pulled if you can at the lowest poing to avoid any residual fluid being left as that'll likely be fluid with detritus contained with in it. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
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22nd Sep 2018 10:43pm |
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| Vogler Member Since: 02 Nov 2014 Location: Brussels Posts: 309  
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When I flushed our Td5 two years ago, I was advised not to use the plug - which it didn't have anyway - but to disconnect the lower hose at the radiator. I suspended a plastic bag with a lower corner cut off to serve as a funnel.
Apparently the plugs have the tendency to break off, sometimes the whole plug assembly shears from the hose. You will still need the upper plug to let air out of the system, so you might want to make sure that you have at least a spare plug, there are also aftermarket aluminium ones available. More important though: I didn't succeed to completely drain it, IIRC at least 5 liters remained in the block since I managed to add about only 8 liters until it was full. Even after a drive I couldn't add more, so I could't contribute it to the thermostat being closed. Having flushed it meant that the remaining 5 liter was mostly water with no coolant in it, and since I already diluted the concentrate before filling, I had to drain some afterwards to be able to add concentrate to obtain the correct dilution. There must be other ways to fully drain the Td5 block, someone told me to blow it all out, and I remember having read afterwards about removing a large plug from the side of the engine block to drain it, but unfortunately don't remember the details.A Regards, Joris |
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22nd Sep 2018 11:55pm |
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| sherifsalem Member Since: 02 Jan 2013 Location: Porto Posts: 96
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Reading your experiences i understood that i should try the lowest point or hose to unclip so that i flush the maximum amount of coolant out
Again by doing so it does not guarantee that all the 13L would flush out need to keep this a possibility that this happens to me. i assume it is not a good idea to use a radiator cleaner then if i cannot guarantee that all of the cleaner will be flushed out (better not) I bought this liquid coolant already mixed on OAT technology, it says to use it directly without mixture, it is writen 40% protection +110C - 25C.......do you think it is ok??? Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Happy Travel www.thegippo.wordpress.com |
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23rd Sep 2018 4:39pm |
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| Tommo Member Since: 19 Dec 2013 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 830 
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There is a engine block drain plug behind the alternator but the alternator has to be removed to do this, Otherwise remove hose from bottom of rad as already described
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23rd Sep 2018 5:17pm |
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| 4RF RDS Member Since: 19 Jul 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 898  
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Seriously don’t waste your time, go to a shop and have it drained and vacuum pugrd on refill. Takes 10 minutes if the guy knows what he is doing. 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam) 2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX) 1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy) 1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood) 1967 MGB GT Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats. H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956) |
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23rd Sep 2018 5:18pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4401
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I don't think there is such a thing over here in the UK. Or at least I have never heard of it over here. Seen it in Canada though, that and drive through oil changes; which is genius IMHO...
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23rd Sep 2018 5:21pm |
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| 4RF RDS Member Since: 19 Jul 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 898
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Well that bites
 I use the drive through oil chnagers but bring my own oil, filters and stuff and watch them like a hawk. 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam) 2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX) 1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy) 1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood) 1967 MGB GT Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats. H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956) |
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23rd Sep 2018 5:24pm |
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| Vogler Member Since: 02 Nov 2014 Location: Brussels Posts: 309
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Those are indeed my experiences.
I'm far from an expert, but you'll find the same qualifications on the technical sheet of Texaco Havoline XLC (ASTM D 3306, see https://cdn.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/texaco/havoline-xlc.pdf ) and Castrol SF (ASTM D 3306, ASTM D4985, see https://cdn.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/Castrol-radicool-sf.pdf) which are both LR recommended coolants. I don't speak spanish, but the stuff you bought seems to be diluted already to the correct concentration.If you're stuck with pure water in the block, then you'll never manage to obtain the correct dilution. I agree with the others that if you're not very keen on doing things yourself (I was  ) then you'll save yourself a lot of hassle by having it done
by a garage. Greetings, Joris |
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23rd Sep 2018 7:29pm |
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| sherifsalem Member Since: 02 Jan 2013 Location: Porto Posts: 96
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I am more like you Vogler .......thanx mate looks like it is a good match indeed !!! i will skip the radiator cleaner and water to clean the circuit.
I bought the landy 15 years ago with the original coolant , always topped but never changed , saying that it went down to Morocco 4 times ....my coolant looks fine no leaks nor rust. it should be an easy task going step by step and carefull Happy Travel www.thegippo.wordpress.com |
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23rd Sep 2018 10:01pm |
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1568  
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Some older Td5 have the steel pipe with drain plug these are ok to removed- the type that the plug is in the rubber hose - don’t mess with it just pull the bottom hose off.
You’ll need to run the car up to temp and bleed the system. Td5s are not the easiest to bleed. Seen a lot of people have funny cooling problems and most f the time it’s the oil cooler or water pump getting tired. |
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24th Sep 2018 1:12am |
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