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Stu_XS



Member Since: 22 Jul 2018
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 86

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
Clutch Issues
I seem to have quite a lot of free travel at the top of the clutch pedal stroke and I also noticed the fluid looks a bit manky.

Clutch isn't great at the moment, a bit all or nothing and not especially easy to select gears sometimes.

I posted in the AP facebook group and it was suggested the Slave Cylinder seal might have failed. This has escalated somewhat from my original plan to adjust the pedal travel and to change out the fluid!!

What are your thoughts and experiences? Clearly it's a much bigger job to change the Slave Cylinder (and of course the clutch whilst I'm in there) than to do as I was previously thinking.

If I do end up having to drop the gearbox, any tips? There doesn't seem to be a huge amount of discussion about it except a YT video showing the somewhat intrusive method of taking out the seat boxes and floor - is this necessary? Do you need to drop the CAT/DPF out of the way as well?

Does it make much difference to the weight of the gearbox if I drop out the oil and take the opportunity to change the GB/TB oil too??

Any other recommended parts to change whilst I'm there? Stu...

2013 Aintree Green 90 XS SW 2.2 Puma
Post #722464 9th Aug 2018 10:02am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16865

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
You'll need to take out the floor panel round the gear levers and it helps (but is not essential) to remove the centre panel of the seatbox. If you have the original one-piece downpipe then that needs to come off (I am thinking of the 2.4 non-DPF here, I don't know the score with the 2.2 with DPF). The gearbox crossmember has to come out, the handbrake assembly has to come off the back of the transfer box, the propshafts have to be disconnected, and it is easier if you take the transfer box off the gearbox then the gearbox off the car if you are doing this yourself (if you have a four-post lift and a proper transmission jack you can remove it as a single item, but it is difficult if the vehicle is at ground level).

You will want to split the gearbox and transfer box anyway to check the infamous output adaptor shaft coupling.

You will have to drain the transfer box if you spilt it from the gearbox because it will drain itself when you unbolt it! It is a good opportunity to drain and refill the main gearbox.

Even split the transfer box and main gearbox are very heavy, quite heavy enough to inflict life-changing injuries if they fall on you, so a decent transmission jack is a bonus.

Overall it is not a hard job but it is a major job and can be daunting. It can be done single-handed in a day, but if you haven't done it before you might want to allow two days. It is actually possible (just) to change the clutch without dropping the gearbox if you move it as far backwards as possible after taking the handbrake assembly off, but it is very awkward and probably doesn't save any time. It also deprives you of the chance to check the output adaptor shaft coupling, which is pretty essential.
Post #722467 9th Aug 2018 10:16am
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Stu_XS



Member Since: 22 Jul 2018
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 86

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
All good info thanks. Would you concur with the diagnosis?

I know the car has had a new clutch fitted by JLR not that long ago but I doubt they changed the Slave Cylinder.

I was just reading up on the input shaft debacle, I've not looked in detail at the job, only seeing some of the photo's. How easy is it to remove the input shaft and it's outer coupling sleeve. I saw a puller being used to draw off the outer sleeve, how is the shaft pulled free?

What incidental parts are anticipated? So far I have the fluids plus new prop shaft bolts, anything else you can think of? I suppose I'll need new bolts for the exhaust on standby.

I will be doing it at ground level, sadly no ramp for me. I could raise the car on stands but then it makes it more difficult if you need to work inside or from the engine bay. Do you know if the box and be removed from under the car without jacking? Stu...

2013 Aintree Green 90 XS SW 2.2 Puma
Post #722470 9th Aug 2018 10:27am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16865

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
You will have to raise the car slightly if you actually want to get the gearbox out from under the car, but you can do this one the gearbox is on the ground. Once separated from the gearbox the transfer box can be extracted from under the car without lifting the car. In both cases you will however have to get them off you jack onto the ground under the car (not difficult because gravity is helping) but more importantly get them back on your jack under the car to refit, and this can be difficult and rather dangerous (you really, really don't want the gearbox on your head).

There's no need for new propshaft bolts whatsover (unless they've been left loose and as a result they're worn) but if the nuts have been reused more than a couple of times they may be worth renewing.

The male part of the o/p adaptor shaft needs a slide hammer to get it out if it isn't falling out already, and the female part will need a puller if it has to be removed and changed. If the coupling is in good condition you won't need to remove the female part, if it is at death's door you will.

It is worth replacing the flow restrictor valve at the same time as the slave cylinder since it is fragile and (relatively) cheap and not do so so is a false economy.
Post #722496 9th Aug 2018 1:34pm
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Stu_XS



Member Since: 22 Jul 2018
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 86

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
Thanks again for the advice, very much appreciated. Stu...

2013 Aintree Green 90 XS SW 2.2 Puma
Post #722498 9th Aug 2018 1:38pm
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