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Alex1976



Member Since: 24 Jan 2013
Location: Buckingham
Posts: 596

England 
Fuel pump mod
So I need a new fuel pump (300tdi) and thinking about swapping to an electric pump. I have found a Facet Duralift pump model 40222 which seems to have the right flow/pressure etc. It also has an 80 micron filter built in. I was wondering if people think that I could do away with my standard filter with the pump filter doing all I need?
Post #721139 2nd Aug 2018 9:34pm
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diesel_jim



Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6037

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 SW Epsom Green
Why?

standard pump works well. It won't give you any more power, just more to go wrong IMO.
Post #721175 3rd Aug 2018 7:55am
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Mash



Member Since: 09 Feb 2015
Location: Guernsey
Posts: 1674

Guernsey 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Nato Green
Stick with the original set up, it works well and have seen many wagons do 100,000s of miles running that set up. If you start changing things it adds a more complex diagnosis and then it’s hard to source the correct parts, as not that many companies will stock it, a lift pump on a 300tdi is simple to swap and cheap with no electrics needed, I have run wagons with no electricity for miles to limp them home (obviously in certain areas that there is no public). 90 wolf - Jasmin http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic39408.html
90 V8 - Maggie http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic42564.html
110 TD5 - Buggsy http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic59029.html
52HG25 lightweight https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72342.html
D3 Hse - Fiona
Capri 2l S - Anna

Think I might have a problem............
Post #721182 3rd Aug 2018 8:40am
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

You be beater off sticking with standard fuel lift / priming pump and have service kit or spear pump Whistle
Post #721192 3rd Aug 2018 9:20am
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2548

Scotland 
As an alternative view, it seems from very unscientific observations that replacement lift pumps are generally poor quality and last nowhere near as long as the original might. So it could be an option for some to eliminate a failure-prone part of the fuel system if a reliable solid-state electric pump can be obtained.

The Tdi will run quite happily with no lift pump (albeit not at full power/speed) so limping home after electrical failure is not an issue.
Post #721201 3rd Aug 2018 10:40am
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7685

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
on my challenge truck to help the lift pump and ensure i had adequate fuel on steep angles i fitted a swirl pot that was fed with a std RR Classic electric lift pump. the pump ran the whole time the ignition was on and filled the swirl pot and excess returned to the tank. Never had a problem in 8 years or competing with fuel supply.

Range Rover classic electric fuel PRC3901 pumps are very simple and very reliable. i bought a spare at the time of fitting original and sold the spare on when the vehicle sold, first one never failed. Bearmach.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/263848980739?chn=ps Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop
Post #721205 3rd Aug 2018 10:56am
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7685

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
i would still keep std fuel filter regardless of any extra filters being added to system Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop
Post #721206 3rd Aug 2018 10:56am
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Alex1976



Member Since: 24 Jan 2013
Location: Buckingham
Posts: 596

England 
Thanks for everyone’s comments on this. There does seem to be some mixed views on this both here and on the wider internet.

It does seem that the replacement fuel pumps available are not the best quality so this was one reason I was thinking of changing to electric.

Also I have heard from some people running 2.8 TGV units that the 300tdi pump can’t supply sufficient fuel for full power. I have what is essentially a TGV unit - a 300tdi built to similar spec and tuned so wondering if I would be better off going electric. JST - I would be interested in your thoughts on this as you have TGVs I think.

The Facet pumps seem very reliable and there doesn’t seem to be an issue with adding this ‘complexity’ to the system.

I can still drive at 60 just about with the failed pump. I will have a bit more of a fiddle/think over the weekend.
Post #721216 3rd Aug 2018 1:08pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7685

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
i ran two TGVs at the same time. the challenge truck had a swirl pot and electric pump to feed the swirl pot. the other drive round day vehicle had a std mechanical lift pump and it would cruise at motorway speeds no problem. i have not heard that the std pump wont provided enough fuel on a tuned tgv.

pacet pumps? why go to the expense. RR V8 ones work perfectly. Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop
Post #721259 3rd Aug 2018 6:15pm
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Alex1976



Member Since: 24 Jan 2013
Location: Buckingham
Posts: 596

England 
Cheers JST, sounds like a standard pump is all I need then. Just need to find Genuine or OEM as it seems the aftermarket pumps are poor quality from what I hear.
Post #721324 3rd Aug 2018 9:51pm
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Timcat



Member Since: 20 Jul 2016
Location: Tanzania at the moment
Posts: 1008

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Indus Silver
Alex1976 wrote:
Thanks for everyone’s comments on this. There does seem to be some mixed views on this both here and on the wider internet.

It does seem that the replacement fuel pumps available are not the best quality so this was one reason I was thinking of changing to electric.

Also I have heard from some people running 2.8 TGV units that the 300tdi pump can’t supply sufficient fuel for full power. I have what is essentially a TGV unit - a 300tdi built to similar spec and tuned so wondering if I would be better off going electric. JST - I would be interested in your thoughts on this as you have TGVs I think.

The Facet pumps seem very reliable and there doesn’t seem to be an issue with adding this ‘complexity’ to the system.

I can still drive at 60 just about with the failed pump. I will have a bit more of a fiddle/think over the weekend.

Facet pumps are used as replacements for genuine Honda motorcycle fuel pumps & are faultless. I’ve used them for years with no problems.
Post #721511 5th Aug 2018 7:10am
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Alex1976



Member Since: 24 Jan 2013
Location: Buckingham
Posts: 596

England 
So my Saturday morning job today was to sort out the fuel pump.

First take off the old pump. I unscrewed the top and found all of this in the filter screen.



Click image to enlarge

[/img]
Post #722927 11th Aug 2018 8:45pm
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Alex1976



Member Since: 24 Jan 2013
Location: Buckingham
Posts: 596

England 
After a lot of deliberating I decided to go with an electric fuel pump rather than replacing the failed pump with another standard unit.

I ordered a blanking plate to close off the hole in the block where the pump used to be. Laser cut stainless steel and a new gasket.



Click image to enlarge
Post #722928 11th Aug 2018 8:48pm
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Alex1976



Member Since: 24 Jan 2013
Location: Buckingham
Posts: 596

England 
I went for a Facet Dura Lift 4222 pump. It has an in built 80 micron stainless mesh filter and clear filter housing so it is easy to keep an eye on any rubbish being dragged through from the tank.

I mounted it where the fuel filter used to be and relocated the filter to mount on the radiator frame.

I ran a new rubber fuel hose (1/4") from the tank pick up pipe to the pump. A small length of pipe from the pump to the filter and then another small run from the filter to the FIP.



Click image to enlarge
Post #722931 11th Aug 2018 8:55pm
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Alex1976



Member Since: 24 Jan 2013
Location: Buckingham
Posts: 596

England 
The pump only uses about 1.4 amps so its low power consumption. For now I have connected it to a power feed that was spare in the off side wing (brown wire and brown/green wire) which is a fused permanent live. I installed an in line 3 amp fuse and ran it to a switch on the dash so I can manually control the pump. I may change this to auto run from a relay picking up a feed from the engine running.

Priming the new filter was easy - turn on the pump, open the bleed valve, wait fro the diesel to be pump through and then close the bleed screw Thumbs Up



Click image to enlarge
Post #722933 11th Aug 2018 9:00pm
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