 | Home > Td5 > Wiring harness woes/Td5 chassis swap |
 
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| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6035   
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Tried pulling it from the other way? (ie, ECU end back through the bulkhead)....
That way it'll just be the two large ECU plugs and a few relay sockets/other engine plugs |
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15th Jul 2018 10:01pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2197 
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Indeed, as above; there should only be one length of cabling in convoluted tubing connecting the bulkhead to seatbox. You will just have to pull the big grommet out of the ecu compartment then the ecu plugs and relays will fit out. All of the cables to the underseat fuse box easily unplug from below it. You will also have to seperate the OBD plug from the centre seatbox lid and the handbrake warning switch.
Battery cables are self explanatory Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread 84' 90 3.9 V8 Caged Pickup Build Thread - Now For Sale Mobile Diesel Heater Build Thread |
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15th Jul 2018 10:09pm |
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| Lancerdoc999 Member Since: 10 Apr 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 205
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I thought that but took everything out that I could and not sure the the box of tricks and big plugs will go through. Will have to look again as seems nuts to have to pull the whole thing out just to clear the seatbox out.
 Click image to enlarge |
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15th Jul 2018 10:16pm |
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| Lancerdoc999 Member Since: 10 Apr 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 205
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So should be able to remove seat box wiring easier than I thought. To strip the whole vehicle electrical harness out of the vehicle do I start by pulling the rear harness back through the chassis, pull the seat box wiring out (battery compartment done), then remove the seat box. To get the bulkhead cleared have to pull the wires out the other way then.
Must say that this step is proper freaking me out! If I'm doing a chassis swap do I need to disconnect everything from the engine/gear box also so can lift then and attach to new chassis? Advice from those that have done it before very welcome. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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15th Jul 2018 10:27pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2197
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As i said before. All the cables unplug from the fusebox so you can get them out. Turn the ecu plugs sideways and they come out
 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread
84' 90 3.9 V8 Caged Pickup Build Thread - Now For Sale Mobile Diesel Heater Build Thread |
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15th Jul 2018 10:33pm |
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| Lancerdoc999 Member Since: 10 Apr 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 205
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thanks Steve. Will have another look tomorrow.
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15th Jul 2018 11:13pm |
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| roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039  
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The seatbox is no problem as said and I know as I did this: (not my picture but I did the same)
In front off the bulkhead are severall connectors that make smaller pieces off the harness. That makes life easier with dismanteling too. Just remember or use Rave to find the placement off the connectors when you are building again. I had some defenders in parts a few times: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge After each one I promise myself: Never again.  Roel
1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
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16th Jul 2018 9:00am |
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| Lancerdoc999 Member Since: 10 Apr 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 205
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thanks for advice, worked a treat and got the whole harness out this evening. God help me when I try and put it all back together again! Will be a miracle if everything works!
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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16th Jul 2018 11:27pm |
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| Lancerdoc999 Member Since: 10 Apr 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 205
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My original plan was to strip down to the chassis and then clean it up and repair what needed then paint etc. Now starting to wonder if worth the effort. Probably needs a near rear crossmember, repairs to front dumb irons, repair/replace passenger outrigger and theres a hole in the plate where the fuel filter sits. (see pics) A new chassis costs £1890 + vat from Richards. The hours I will spend cleaning and repairing the chassis vs getting a new one seems a bit pointless. Theres lots of pitting/surface rust. No idea what its like inside.
What do people think. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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16th Jul 2018 11:33pm |
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| V8GPC Member Since: 18 Jul 2016 Location: Manchester Posts: 289
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if you get a galvanised chassis - do it once to it right! plus while its a rolling chassis you can easily dinitrol the inside of the new chassis and even paint the outside... then it should last forever. You've already done the hard work already - just the suspension to do - and a nice refresh of that will make the vehicile feel like new.
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17th Jul 2018 6:56am |
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| lightning Member Since: 23 Apr 2009 Location: High Peak, Derbyshire Posts: 2235
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Definitely replace the chassis if you have got that far. A galvanised chassis will also increase the value of your Landy by at least the cost of the chassis, and probably a fair bit more.
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17th Jul 2018 8:33am |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2547 
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If you can afford it then a new chassis is a worthwhile investment if you're going to keep the vehicle.
I would go with Marsland over Richards if you can get hold of one. |
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17th Jul 2018 9:08am |
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| familymad Member Since: 13 Dec 2011 Location: Bucks Posts: 3463  
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Chassis swap vote 1951 80" S1 2.0
1995 110 300TDI 1995 90 300TDI |
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17th Jul 2018 9:27am |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
Chassis vote here - especially when, judging by the pics, you have the space to do it. Whenever something gets to that stage, it's not just the hours of work involved, it's the idea at the back of your mind that you're just waiting for the next problem to appear. Sods law says it's in an awkward place; you won't notice until it's got a good hold; and then there's more work to fix it again.... and again. Speaking entirely from personal experience: I had the first galved chassis fitted 14/15 years ago. Any day now I'm hoping to get the car back from having that replaced because it was a "Friday afternoon" job. I haven't been down to see that chassis since it was taken off the car, but I'm told it's a lot worse than should be expected from a galved chassis that 'new'. That one, the poor one, was a Richards chassis. It's a Marsland that's gone on now. On that basis I'd second Retro's suggestion of Marsland over Richards, though I know both have their supporters. As I say, personal experience only. Finally - on the pic of the wiring loom. I felt exactly the same when I did my bulkhead - a pile of wires on the garage floor which I doubted I'd ever get to work again. Fitted it up, sat in the car, heart in mouth, turned the key - started first time! Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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17th Jul 2018 9:41am |
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