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dantastic

Member Since: 04 May 2010
Location: London
Posts: 367

Dinitrol or galvanize chassis?

The state of the chassis on my 2016 90 is far worse than the 2002 I parted with when I "upgraded". I was under the car today to tart up the rear crossmember as it's in a sorry state. I quickly came to the conclusion that I don't have the patience to do a proper job so I will need someone to sort out my chassis for me.

I intend to keep this one so I want to do a good job and I was thinking of the different options. First of all, the cost of having a dinitrol treatment done is about 1000 or so and it doesn't last forever. I was thinking about having the chassis galvanized instead. A friend suggested to but a galvanized chassis and just swap over the bits, suggesting it would be a lot quicker job. Seeing as I can't do this myself anyway and a fella probably won't want to have a lift occupied for a week or so this might be an option too.

So asking the question, pros and cons, ideas of cost as well would be helpful.
Dinitrol treatment
galvanize my own chassis
Buy new galvanized chassis

8th Jun 2018 8:01pm

VVS210

Member Since: 12 Nov 2016
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 953

If your chassis is that bad go to LR dealer & ask about claiming on the corrosion warranty - you have a 2016 Defender so should still be covered.

If they don't sort it then I would personally go with a new galv chassis on the basis that if it is rusting that badly externally what will it be like inside the box sections?

As for cost, I'd budget about £5k if you get it done at a suitable garage or specialist - supply & fit plus doing various replacements whilst it's apart, brake pipes, etc.

8th Jun 2018 8:09pm

dantastic

Member Since: 04 May 2010
Location: London
Posts: 367

Should probably add that Land Rover refuse to cover any part of the chassis as part of the corrosion warranty, they are not even covering the back of the crossmember. I've been fighting with them for ages now, I've given up.

8th Jun 2018 8:33pm

Huttopia

Member Since: 23 Feb 2016
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 1968

That’s poor. I think quite a few folk have had the rear crossmember tarted up under warranty. Can you try a different dealership?

8th Jun 2018 9:44pm

dantastic

Member Since: 04 May 2010
Location: London
Posts: 367

Not the dealership, LR themselves say it's just cosmetic. Besides the point, if they approve the work they will only tart it up. I want to preserve the entire chassis.

Where I'm struggling though is why people keep suggesting I buy a new one. The current one isn't great but it's not that bad yet. It's well within saving.

8th Jun 2018 10:12pm

zsd-puma

Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black

Quote:
First of all, the cost of having a dinitrol treatment done is about 1000 or so

Who the hell quoted that? it's about £60 worth of materials and a days labour at most. Surely that must include a load of welding work for that price?

A galvanised chassis will basically last for ever. If you have the money and space/time to do it then it's worth doing in the long run.

8th Jun 2018 10:33pm

LR90XS2011

Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 3613

2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green

have you any photos? DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy

9th Jun 2018 5:46am

JOW240725

Member Since: 04 May 2015
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 7873

2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Orkney Grey

If a galv chassis is within your scope, then why not leave it until it's really bad and then do a chassis swap? I was just reading on Zagato Corrosion thread he even recommends dinitrolling a galv chassis. Would be easy to do on a nice new clean chassis, might be worth it.

Shocking to hear it's that bad already and JLR won't do anything!

Was I was researching getting mine undersealed I read a comment from someone saying don't bother spending £500 every 3-5 years sealing just wait till its bad and replace with galv chassis.

Good luck James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html
MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641
MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557
Instagram @suffolk_rovers

9th Jun 2018 7:52am

LandRoverAnorak

Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey

dantastic wrote:
Where I'm struggling though is why people keep suggesting I buy a new one. The current one isn't great but it's not that bad yet. It's well within saving.

That's probably because it'd make it a much easier task to do. To have your existing chassis galvanised would require the vehicle stripping down and then storing all of those parts somewhere whilst the chassis was sent off to be treated. You would be without the vehicle for weeks rather than a few days to swap it onto a new chassis.

If you've got the space and facilities to strip and store the rest of the vehicle then saving the existing chassis would probably be cheaper, but if it needs repairing first then that may become marginal. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia

9th Jun 2018 9:10am

foxhound

Member Since: 02 Mar 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 357

1995 Defender 110 300 Tdi SW Alpine White

Go galvanize.

I did it by taking my 110 oop north and leaving it with Paul Marsden who's 50 yds from richards chassis - 2 weeks later complete chassis swap done for cost of the richards chassis plus £1500.

thoroughly recommend both richard and paul marsden 110 Defender 300tdi & Penman trailer with ally exped top and roof tent

10th Jun 2018 6:48pm

dantastic

Member Since: 04 May 2010
Location: London
Posts: 367

Been talking to people and I think a new galvanized chassis is the way to go. As I will be replacing anyway I don't really need to worry about the current chassis yet for another while. If I was planning on saving it then yes, I'd be in a hurry but replacing.... I can' take it easy for another couple of years. I'll just tart up visible bits for the time being.

10th Jun 2018 10:56pm

zsd-puma

Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

It wouldn't hurt to buy a cheap can of waxoyl and a garden sprayer and blow around on the chassis, especially in side the chassis rails. Even a quick bodge job will give you a year or two more out of it, ie. cut down on the amount of patching and welding you do.

10th Jun 2018 11:43pm

DSC-off

Member Since: 16 Oct 2014
Location: North East
Posts: 1351

2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green

Dan,
I'm quite shocked to read that you're considering changing a chassis that can only be 3 years old at most.
It makes me think I need to give mine a good check over just to be sure. It was waxoyled 3 years ago, when a few months old.

If it ever does need replacing, I will wait until it is absolutely necessary.
I don't see the point in spending upwards of £5000 on it now, in case it might need it later.
A lot could happen in the meantime, and you may never get to see the benefit of a galvanised chassis.

Until then a regular top up with waxoyle or dinitrol will help it last a bit longer.

11th Jun 2018 1:03pm

PumaPhil

Member Since: 26 Oct 2014
Location: Bridgend
Posts: 201

2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Aintree Green

How has it got so bad in only 2-3 years? Launching boats? Or farm work? Even the utility company Defenders you see that rarely get washed only have surface rust at 8-10 years old.

How does the rest of the underside look? Bulkhead, axles etc? They may all need a clean and coat of paint too.

11th Jun 2018 4:14pm

LANDROVER

Member Since: 13 Feb 2016
Location: EAST OF ENGLAND
Posts: 205

dantastic wrote:
Not the dealership, LR themselves say it's just cosmetic. Besides the point, if they approve the work they will only tart it up. I want to preserve the entire chassis.

Where I'm struggling though is why people keep suggesting I buy a new one. The current one isn't great but it's not that bad yet. It's well within saving.

I would power wash it down on a sunny day. Wire brush any loose rust off.

Buy some aerosol tins of CIO from BUZZWELD and treat everything you can. If you do it yourself you know it's done right plus it will only cost materials. CIO drys so quick the LR will hardly be out of action.

When the time comes to weld any part of the chassis treat yourself to a new one.

Future proof the vehicle by Galvanising everything steel you can.

11th Jun 2018 8:10pm

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