 | Home > Technical > battery replacement 2.2 Puma |
 
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| ssg Member Since: 01 Mar 2018 Location: North East Posts: 65  
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Hi < I recently disconnected the battery on my 2014 to do some work on the electrics. When disconnected the battery back up alarm sounder (BBUS) went off, just pressed remote and turned key in ignition and it stopped. i think it sounded again on re-connection but just did the same and the alarm stops. Should be the same when changing the battery, no worries.
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21st Apr 2018 2:04pm |
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| strang Member Since: 16 May 2012 Location: Happy Valley Posts: 1362 
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The handbook details the sequence you need to use in order to disconnect and re-connect the battery. Euro-Leafing to infinity and beyond.....
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21st Apr 2018 3:34pm |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971 
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Loosen the terminals, turn the ignition on, turn the ignition off, disconnect the negative.
the reason you disconnect the negative is for safety, the same reason you connect the negative jump lead first. If you're vigorously waving your spanner around and short between a terminal at the body of the vehicle it won't matter if it's the negative but it will matter if it's the positive. Once the negative is disconnected then you're safe to do whatever you like to the positive. |
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21st Apr 2018 7:55pm |
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| legin Member Since: 22 Jul 2017 Location: Chelmsford Essex Posts: 1004 
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I was always told to disconnect the live first and reconnect the earth last and over the years this has worked for me also leave doors open when connecting the battery and when fully connected shut doors ,lock doors with remote and leave for a couple of minutes to settle then open with the remote ,this should works with most cars.
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21st Apr 2018 9:57pm |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971
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In that case you were told wrong. There is no good reason to disconnect the positive first and plenty of good reasons (primarily safety) to disconnect the negative first.
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22nd Apr 2018 5:57pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720 
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I would rarely post a reply like this, but I have to say most of that is nonsense, who ever told you all that didn't know what they were talking about. Or they were having a laugh at your expense..... Clearly you'd (realistically) need to open at least one door to change the battery on a late Defender purely because it's under the passenger seat. But opening the doors is pointless on anything with it under the bonnet, so long as you have the keys in your pocket. On cars with central locking it's good practice to keep the keys on you when you're messing with the battery, just on the off chance the doors self lock when you reconnect the battery, but this only really applies to cars with the battery under the bonnet (ie not a Defender). You can disconnect either terminal first, but doing the positive first means you risk your spanner hitting the earth (ie the body) and arcing. Always remove earth first and replace last - basic good practice. Although on cars with quick release battery terminals it becomes less relevant. On some cars (Defender included) you need to disarm the alarm before disconnecting the battery otherwise it will either sound while you've got the battery disconnected if it has a BBUS, and/or go off when you reconnect the battery. But the only way you'd manage not to do that is if you'd opened the door or bonnet to change the battery then inadvertently partially set the alarm by pressing the remote lock button again. Some modern cars with advanced electronics. Need you to follow a specific disconnect and reconnect sequence, to allow the on board computers to shut down and reboot in an orderly fashion. But a Defender isn't a "modern car with advance electronics", its a case of make sure the alarm is disarmed and the engine is off, then pop the seat off, disconnect the neg terminal, followed by the positive. Reconnect the battery positive first, followed the neg, then put all the seat back together. Depending on the alarm fitted you may need to press one of the remote buttons 4 or 5 times to resynchronise it but, that's it job done. |
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22nd Apr 2018 9:24pm |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971
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If you have central locking then it wouldn't be a bad idea to wind one of the windows down first, it doesn't cost anything and if your car gets confused it could save getting locked out.
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23rd Apr 2018 4:30pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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The main reason you don't leave the key in it. But yes winding a window open works too.
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24th Apr 2018 12:26am |
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| chipmunk Member Since: 10 May 2012 Location: Kelso Posts: 264 
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On a similar note......... watch out in very cold weather....I once got in to my old 04 TD5 HT, started the engine, got out and shut the door.....it then locked itself and my spare keys were a long way off in GF car..!! Before this the central locking had worked but after 2-3 seconds locked up again .....4 times. It has happened on my 2.2 HT also.
Careful in very hard frost. Recently left car standing for a month while I was in France, when I got back, on starting, the alarm bleeped briefly but stopped once the engine started. It doesn't do it now there's a bit of charge in the battery. Does this mean the battery is getting to the end of its life? |
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25th Apr 2018 3:11pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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Not necessarily. Having been sat for a month the battery would have been slowly draining, the alarm and any other electronic security you have fitted will draw a small amount of current. If you're going to leave it sitting for long periods, get a solar power charger for it and leave in the windscreen. |
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25th Apr 2018 10:37pm |
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| Ecco Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Kuala Lumpur Posts: 279  
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..I have finally managed to find and download workshop manual..it seems its identical procedure as one for Range Rover P38...considering that this is workshop manual for MY2012, im assuming that its identical procedure for MY 2014, yes?
 Click image to enlarge |
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21st May 2018 5:04am |
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