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| MadTom Member Since: 10 Sep 2013 Location: Olomouc Posts: 568   
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Try to swap also MAP and AAP sensors. As simple check. Both can affect the engine response. Check that wastegate is not stuck or is not sticking open or close. And check that air filter is OK and air intake for some "unwanted" think inside (plastic bag, ....). "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo
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6th Apr 2018 7:39am |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4388 
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It honestly sounds like you have tried almost everything. Tidy 110 by the way
There is a slight difference in exhaust length that may explain the difference between 90s and 110s, back pressure on the turbo and such. Whilst you are hunting for possible problems check your oil pressure. I have just had an issue where when hot my TD5 had no pressure at all at idle and barely 1 bar at 2500rpm. This caused all kinds of running issues and a drop in power. I found that not only was the pump bolt not thread loc'd (2003 and 300k km) but the pressure release valve was stuck almost solid. With it free'd up I now have perfect pressure and all my running issues have been resolved. I can only presume that the pressure release valve was stuck slightly open, but closed enough to produce some pressure when cold. Have you removed the EGR paraphernalia? If not these could be malfunctioning. Clean all your sensors with contact cleaner. Any faults? Check and clean your earthing points. May sound daft but the ECU is very sensitive to bad earths and can throw up odd running issues. Out of interest have you tried swapping the ECUs over? see if that makes a difference. |
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6th Apr 2018 10:08am |
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| DiscoSmiley Member Since: 31 Mar 2017 Location: Alberton JHB Posts: 5 
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Thanks guys. I will have a look at these things over the weekend.
I have removed the inlet just after the air cleaner and drove it like that and it is virtually the same. Not much of an improvement. Will it be OK if I swap the ECU,s Being different year models I am a bit scared. I will put the 90 ECU in the 110 and see if it is "dead" If not then it must be something else. I might then run the 90 on the 110 ECU. |
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6th Apr 2018 11:17am |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2196 
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I dont believe you can just swap the ECUs between vehicles as the Immobilizer will not allow starting.
You can either swap the 10AS units so that the ECU stays with the immobilizer or will need a Nanocom or similar to pair the ecu and immobilizer. Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread 84' 90 3.9 V8 Caged Pickup Build Thread - Now For Sale Mobile Diesel Heater Build Thread |
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6th Apr 2018 11:27am |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4388
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I expect others will know better than I do (and it might be worth dropping one of the ECU remapping companies on the forum a quick email to double check), but you should be able to swap them over to test your vehicles. You will have to code the injectors from one to the other as well and back again after the test. Do you have a Nanocom or Hawkeye diagnostics tool? With these you can read off the injector codes from each ECU and change them over.
Generally when ECUs die, they die and usually from the topside switch error (internal capacitors die). Symptoms include random cutting out of the engine and bad starting. Good luck |
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6th Apr 2018 11:40am |
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