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Buz



Member Since: 24 Jan 2014
Location: Forest of Dean
Posts: 238

United Kingdom 1987 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Barolo Black
bankz5152 wrote:
Tad unorthodox but I filled mine with solder, then heated with a blowtorch until molten, forced the wire in then left to set. 4 years later and many uses still going strong.


Yep, thats how i did mine as well
Post #688670 24th Feb 2018 10:19pm
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RoddyK05



Member Since: 08 Apr 2015
Location: Inverclyde
Posts: 633

Scotland 2004 Defender 90 Td5 SW Yellow
When I was on the tools we had various crimping tools. The best was a hydraulically assisted hand operated type, but came with a hefty price tag. I had a huge amount of leads to make up one time for a capacitor bank I was installing, my chargehand actually told me not to bother with the big crimper as it would take an age. He had me do it “the old fashioned way” which as described in other posts involved a large hammer and the edge of a bit of unistrut which was bolted to the floor. Strip the insulation, put the crimp on, hold the cable with the crimp on the edge of the uni’ and skelp it hard with the big hammer. It lasted donkeys years until the factory was eventually pulled down.
In saying this, I too will be fitting an Anderson socket for jump leads and I will probably take the easy route and purchase a set already made up. I believe Leeds can supply such a set up and this is probably what I’ll do.
Post #688671 24th Feb 2018 10:22pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5740

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
I use a hydraulic crimp(well borrow on one of a mate) i still have the crimping tool and if you was closer I would do it for you. Have done a few 50amp Anderson ones. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #688672 24th Feb 2018 10:27pm
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ChrisCM



Member Since: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Cornwall uk
Posts: 572

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Santorini Black
When I did my first set of 175A connectors for a jump start connector I used the molten solder method but as I later had several sets to do for my and my son’s winch wiring and connectors I bought a cheap hydraulic crimper on e-bay and it’s worked very well on the Anderson connectors and other crimped connectors. 2010 Defender 110 Station Wagon, Santorini Black.
Post #688700 25th Feb 2018 12:22am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16874

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Shoving a cold wire into a connector filled with molten solder will not produce a good joint, I'm afraid. Both the wire and the terminal need to be tinned first and then hotter than the melting point of the solder to avoid a "dry joint" and pass any sort of industry QA test.

Last edited by blackwolf on 28th Feb 2018 7:54pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #688730 25th Feb 2018 9:55am
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miker



Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1758

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Rioja Red
Also not a fan of soldering. Has to be done right (ie hot) to get a good connection, and even if done well, it will make the cable go rigid due to the solder, which can eventually lead to stress fractures with vibration and movement.

Crimping is far better, even the cheap eBay hydraulic hex crimpers work well enough if used carefully
Post #688750 25th Feb 2018 11:40am
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 3997

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Thanks for the input. I’ve ordered a Green Box Lighting Power Pack and the chap there I s going to make the lead for me. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #689681 28th Feb 2018 7:06pm
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Greyman110



Member Since: 29 Sep 2017
Location: London
Posts: 323

United Kingdom 
While looking for a way to access the battery terminals without having to take the seat base off I came across this thread.

What I would like to do is to have access to a point where I would be able to attach jump leads, compressor etc without having to change everything to different connectors.

My idea would be separate Anderson connectors to each terminal, then a plug for each that would have a solid exposed metal bit that I could clamp on to. Once finished I could then disconnect the metal connectors and it would all be safe.

Question is:

Is this possible?
Is there a better way?
Is there a kit I can buy?

As you've probably guessed, electrics aren't a strong point Rolling with laughter

Thanks
Post #704986 3rd May 2018 12:29pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
That sounds lethal Shocked
Whilst more involved, you'd be better off with an Anderson connector from the battery and then a series of adapter leads with the Anderson on one end and whatever you need to connect your individual kit at the other. No exposed bits of live metal or clamps required. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia


Last edited by LandRoverAnorak on 3rd May 2018 1:15pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #704987 3rd May 2018 12:34pm
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Greyman110



Member Since: 29 Sep 2017
Location: London
Posts: 323

United Kingdom 
Thanks for that.

I've spent the last 10 min looking at all the different connectors and all I've come up with so far is that theres a lot of different connectors! Confused Rolling with laughter
Post #704990 3rd May 2018 12:51pm
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miker



Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1758

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Rioja Red
Just chop the ends of whatever you want to connect there, and fit it with an Anderson surely. Much better connection than sprung hand clamps.

If you ever need to use them on a different vehicle, you will already have an Anderson-clamp cable in the form of your jump leads
Post #704991 3rd May 2018 1:09pm
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