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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16809

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
True. Shocked
Post #723955 17th Aug 2018 8:57am
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MK



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2255

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
Preheat must be the way to go. The main bolt is massively strong but for sure you can damage the very fine female thread.
Appears that no thread locker is used. Puma 110" SW

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Earth first. Other planets later
Post #723972 17th Aug 2018 11:37am
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Yannis



Member Since: 02 Feb 2015
Location: Oxfordshire / Milan
Posts: 400

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Corris Grey
What is the best way to get the female part of the cup off? I just broke my puller trying...
Post #724013 17th Aug 2018 5:40pm
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MK



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2255

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
If that one was a 3 leg type you can try the other type. Dont know the name. Puller-separator?

A bit of hammering here and there also helps when pulling. Puma 110" SW

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Earth first. Other planets later
Post #724015 17th Aug 2018 5:54pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16809

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
A bigger and better puller is probably the answer! Preferably not one made of Chinesium.
Post #724026 17th Aug 2018 6:47pm
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Yannis



Member Since: 02 Feb 2015
Location: Oxfordshire / Milan
Posts: 400

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Corris Grey
Also, I have another question; the clutch fluid is green? Is it just Land Rover Dot 5 or is it something special?
Post #724033 17th Aug 2018 7:59pm
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MK



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2255

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
Afaik it should be Dot 4 for the 2.4. FMVSS 116 DOT 4 spec Puma 110" SW

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Earth first. Other planets later
Post #724038 17th Aug 2018 8:26pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19451

United Kingdom 
Sykes Picavant make pretty good pullers.

They are not cheap though!

Thumbs Up Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧
Post #724042 17th Aug 2018 8:55pm
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ian series 1



Member Since: 17 Nov 2014
Location: south
Posts: 3127

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Bonatti Grey
At the start of this thread you will see the little two legged puller I use for this job,
That one is a Sykes picavant Hydraulic one, I cant understand why a normal set of pullers (even cheap ones) wouldn’t be up to the job of removing the splined drive cup?

These are not usually difficult to pull off, they require very little effort to move.
You will feel how tight they fit when you fit the new cup, some simply slide back on, some need a gentle tap with a hide hammer.

The whole job of replacing the shaft is a straight forward affair, any confident person in DIY mechanical work would do it with ease, 3/4 spanner ratting if we must Laughing

Sure the workshop manual states the use of special tools for this and that, but everything is like that these days,
If I had a “special tool” for everything I did at work, A, I would be broke. B, I wouldn’t have a wall big enough to hang it all on!

There isn’t much you can get wrong, as always probably the worse part if your doing the job at home, is the T/box removal.

See if you can hire or borrow a good puller, from a hire shop Thumbs Up 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"

Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered.
Post #724062 18th Aug 2018 6:09am
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Yannis



Member Since: 02 Feb 2015
Location: Oxfordshire / Milan
Posts: 400

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Corris Grey
The gearbox and Transfer Box are sitting on the floor of my garage, so at least access isn’t a problem.

I’m doing the clutch at the same time as the shaft as it’s all in bits anyway. I am surprised at how loose the springs in the clutch are after just 30k miles. Shocked

I am off to borrow a 3 arm puller which is a bit more heavy duty than my one manafactured my cathedral city...
Post #724064 18th Aug 2018 6:23am
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ian series 1



Member Since: 17 Nov 2014
Location: south
Posts: 3127

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Bonatti Grey
Laughing

Yannis, You’ve done the hardest part, the rest is a breeze Thumbs Up 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"

Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered.
Post #724073 18th Aug 2018 8:02am
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Yannis



Member Since: 02 Feb 2015
Location: Oxfordshire / Milan
Posts: 400

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Corris Grey
Finally got it all apart and back together.

Trapped a cable between the engine and gearbox when they went back together but nothing a bit of soldering and heatshrink couldn't sort out.

The result is much reduced backlash and everything seems much smoother now. The big vibration it had through the gearstick from the factory also seems to have gone.

Definitely worth while and it can be completed in the driveway.
Post #724473 20th Aug 2018 8:16pm
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ian series 1



Member Since: 17 Nov 2014
Location: south
Posts: 3127

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Bonatti Grey
Thumbs Up 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"

Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered.
Post #724481 20th Aug 2018 8:36pm
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Grenadier



Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5765

France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Corris Grey
Here we go. My shaft, collected from Palma yesterday. I'm no 'output shaft failure' expert, but this looks pretty bad to me...

Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge
 Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey
Post #725222 24th Aug 2018 1:35pm
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
the way the splines have worn into serrations it's probably ok when using the two reverse gears. Laughing
Post #725253 24th Aug 2018 3:33pm
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