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| Mash Member Since: 09 Feb 2015 Location: Guernsey Posts: 1674   
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You will need multihex sockets for the disc and calliper, either loctite or new bolts for the callipers.
Have a look at the tracta seals and make sure they are fine, along with king pins. 90 wolf - Jasmin http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic39408.html 90 V8 - Maggie http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic42564.html 110 TD5 - Buggsy http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic59029.html 52HG25 lightweight https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72342.html D3 Hse - Fiona Capri 2l S - Anna Think I might have a problem............ |
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27th Jan 2018 9:05pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324 
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Inspect your calliper's piston condition.
If they're corroded and you push them back to accommodate the new pads/discs you can damage the seals.. Any pitting or leaks from the swivel seals? Do them now. Any knocking/kicking in the swivel pins? Do them now. Don't have a 200Nm+ torque wrench? Change to two nut system now. Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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27th Jan 2018 9:24pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410 
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Just to confirm your parts list, you will need;
Front and rear discs Front and rear pads front and rear retaining pin kits 4x locking hub nuts 8x bearings (timken are excellent or there are LR branded items of course) Hub seals, front and back of hub and font and rear of vehicle. Lithium grease for packing the bearings. Bear in mind extra items may be needed as things never go quite to plan. These could include callipers, hub flanges, stub axles and half shafts - Depending on how worn they are. Tools: Piston retraction tool (big paddle version), small wire brushes, rags, gloves, 12 pointed socket set, torque wrench, breaker bar, chisel, lump hammer, rubber mallet, thread lock, brake cleaner... This is an involved job, but easy enough for the DIY'er to do. Take your time, keep it clean, torque it up and don't forget to use thread lock... |
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27th Jan 2018 9:26pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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All the associated gaskets too...
Can get away without piston retraction tool if you're delicate with pry bars and scrap flat bar. Agree will take time, and you likely will find other things in there to attend to. Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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27th Jan 2018 9:30pm |
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| Timcat Member Since: 20 Jul 2016 Location: Tanzania at the moment Posts: 1014 
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Thank you for all the replies, the knloage base on here is great! I’m quite mechanically minded ( off road bikes mainly) but will have a good friend of mine helping me who’s a mechanic.
Couple of points mentioned the Caliper pistons, I changed the front pads before Morocco & yes as said the pistons were corroded ( as she’s done plenty of off road) Question, would you be inclined to change all the pistons front & back to stainless? My nephew works for TRW in the r & d brake department and would be a job he could do with his eyes closed before the bearings/discs were done. Second question, there was a mention of two nut system is this to use the second nut as a locking nut? If so has anyone got any more details? It may seem over the top thinking of changing pistons but we get about in the old girl & she’s a keeper! |
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28th Jan 2018 9:46am |
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