 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Anyone have or fitted the Safety Devices L243 Roll Cage ? |
 
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| bankz5152 Member Since: 02 Feb 2017 Location: South London/North Kent Posts: 2065  
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Evening,
So looking to finally get a cage on my 110 in the near future. Pretty set on the L243 cage which is full external without interior bracing as per the L185, which has another loop inside the cab. Which I wanted to avoid as space is a premium! Though I want to make sure the L243 is a proper cage and not a "poser" cage as it where. Just want to be sure the L243 will protect me and my 110 in the event of a roll over or car crash. 6 Point L243 - http://www.safetydevices.com/expedition/pr.../644/1882/ 10 Point L185 - http://www.safetydevices.com/expedition/pr.../658/1882/ |
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20th Jan 2018 10:44pm |
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| Thon Member Since: 22 Nov 2015 Location: Salisbury Plain Posts: 696 
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I haven't fitted either of these cages, but have the RBL 183 fitted to my 110 Puma SW.
http://www.safetydevices.com/expedition/pr.../656/1805/ Looking at your two options, the first thing I would say is that the B post hoop is not terribly intrusive, certainly doesn't seem to be in my case. My seat goes all the way back unrestricted and it is far enough back that it doesn't affect headroom at all. I'm 5'10". It looks exactly the same shape as mine. Secondly, both of your options will help massively in any roll-over. The A post is secured to the (substantial) bulkhead and its outrigger, as are the other hoops. The 185 will be the stronger of the two as it provides more roof-to-chassis rigidity due to the extra hoop but whether this would make any appreciable difference is unknowable as each roll-over will be different in its speed/momentum and directions of impact. Also that hoop is not a particularly tricky one to fit, although it is a roof penetration and needs sealing carefully. Neither of your proposed options are "poser" bars  |
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20th Jan 2018 11:38pm |
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| Thon Member Since: 22 Nov 2015 Location: Salisbury Plain Posts: 696
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In some ways yes it is a pain in the arse, but mostly it the trying to "thread" the bar into the cab.
It's like an enlarged but slightly demented Christmas cracker puzzle as there are only a couple of ways to do it but you have to go through all of the other 300 permutations first! Once you manage that the actual marking out, drilling & bolting is pretty simple. I actually did that bit myself before I ran out of time and handed it over to the workshop to complete the rest. As long as you don't go for the cage I chose, anything else will be easy! |
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21st Jan 2018 12:11am |
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| bankz5152 Member Since: 02 Feb 2017 Location: South London/North Kent Posts: 2065
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So you went for the L185 cage and fitted the interior bar yourself and had a garage do the rest?
Trying to decide really, if its worth the extra time, money and effort to fit the interior hoop. Its a tad more expensive and will add considerably to labour costs! |
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21st Jan 2018 12:31am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324 
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I have fitted the L242 which is the SW version of the L243.
Looking at the drawings it looks like they have the same fitting to the chassis outriggers on the front and very similar on the rear. I went for the option without the internal brace as it turns out NZ law actually legally excludes the internal part for safety reasons. I could argue but it was reason enough to save the hassle of the internal installation  Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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21st Jan 2018 7:58am |
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| Katoom Member Since: 07 Dec 2013 Location: Devon Posts: 25 
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Playing devil's advocate, but wouldn't an internal bar be as much a hazard as it is protection in the event of a crash or rollover, unless wearing an helmet?
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21st Jan 2018 9:09am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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Yes totally, in this case it sits quite a bit behind the front and far enough forward of the rear, but it squeaked in to the NZ defined no-go zone by a few mm.
In reality you put foam around it.. Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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21st Jan 2018 9:16am |
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| bankz5152 Member Since: 02 Feb 2017 Location: South London/North Kent Posts: 2065
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Excellent, thank you chaps! I shall go for the original cage I wanted then!
Providing nothing goes horribly wrong I should be able to buy it by the end of Feb. Going to fit it myself with the help of a local garage I know well, Im going to plan to do an almost step by step of how to fit it! It'll have a few custom brackets welded on for light bars/beacons. |
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21st Jan 2018 11:49am |
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| Thon Member Since: 22 Nov 2015 Location: Salisbury Plain Posts: 696
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Actually no - I decided on the RBL 183 as I am not a fan of external cages, which is only external on the A pillar and windscreen section, then drops into the vehicle at the B pillar. It's massively more complex to fit due to interior trim, roof linings, etc. I did the A and B pillar then ran out of time. The A pillar is quite time consuming on a Puma as the outer wings need to come off and one side is obscured by the heater intake. My favourite workshop completed the job, and vowed never to do another. I don't blame them. We only found out in the end that the D pillar hoop was sleeved in the pictures they sent us after a great deal of struggle. We didn't fit a sleeved joint to maintain its integrity as the roof was off in any case. To answer the devil's advocate question about bars inside the truck, SD supply a full kit of cage padding for all of the internal sections, which I reduced by only including the passenger cabin (5 seater only). The other thing to bear in mind is that the existing A, B and C pillars are barely-protected steel section so are hardly crash-friendly in any case. My baby daughter travels in the rear in her car seat and there is no chance of any interaction with any part of the cage unless it is crushed flat. Nothing is ideal and without compromise, but i'd rather take my chances with the cage inside than no cage at all. Pictures shown without padding fitted. It's a job for the summer for me in my new shiny workshop (once the builder builds it!).  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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21st Jan 2018 12:17pm |
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| Katoom Member Since: 07 Dec 2013 Location: Devon Posts: 25
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Devil's advocate here again. Yours points are well made. I now have cage envy.
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21st Jan 2018 1:21pm |
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| bankz5152 Member Since: 02 Feb 2017 Location: South London/North Kent Posts: 2065
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I specifically want an external cage to protect the landy properly as I do a fair bit of off roading, had one roll over (on to the side, very little damage). Plus the added peace of mind when on and off road.
Looking forward to it  |
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21st Jan 2018 1:32pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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Keep in mind the SD cages are more like a save you cage than a save your vehicle cage..
I installed mine myself and it took about double the amount of time predicted, I think with two you'll be ok. Much less tool throwing   .
Expect guesswork and resultant rework due to unclear photocopied instructions, and mislabeled fastener bags. Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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21st Jan 2018 5:38pm |
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| MartnH Member Since: 30 Oct 2017 Location: Nsw Posts: 28 
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I installed the six point external roll cage. took me and my mates two full days.
I am very happy with the roll cage, perhaps except that rubber mount thing.... if I were to do it again, I will still go for the external six point. I avoided the internal cage for a very simple reason, internal cage in a car crash can kill you without wearing a helmet |
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21st Jan 2018 11:10pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769 
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If it's padded it's no worse than hitting the a/b/c pillar. Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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21st Jan 2018 11:52pm |
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