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| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 3997   
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Is there a route for the Anderson plug to come out of the seat box without drilling any holes? I’ve been meaning to look at doing this but don’t want to do any drilling. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Last edited by Bluest on 14th Jan 2018 9:49pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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14th Jan 2018 9:07pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19572
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I'm pretty sure that you'll find a free entry there somwhere.
 Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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14th Jan 2018 9:09pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4395
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Yes but not in to the cab, out on to the chassis rail. You mount the anderson on the front bumper like utilities vehicles. Otherwise it is a case of breaking out the big drills  |
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14th Jan 2018 9:15pm |
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8578
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Anderson plug for jump leads need SB175 size
For a compressor you will have to solder the leads into a SB175 or use something like a SB50 to SB175 convertor lead. If soldering leads into an Anderson connector use some strain relief. Double the cable back and tape it onto connector. HTH Brendan |
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14th Jan 2018 9:22pm |
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| Timcat Member Since: 20 Jul 2016 Location: Tanzania at the moment Posts: 1008 
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Everyone I’ve seen done you’ll have to drill a hole! Can’t see a problem if there’s a gromit to cover the sharp edges.
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14th Jan 2018 9:23pm |
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| Timcat Member Since: 20 Jul 2016 Location: Tanzania at the moment Posts: 1008
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Thanks for the information Brendan.
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14th Jan 2018 9:41pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5740 
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I have pair of (ex UPS) SB50's with around 4" of cable on the end if required? 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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15th Jan 2018 9:44am |
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| ChrisCM Member Since: 10 Jun 2013 Location: Cornwall uk Posts: 572 
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This is exact what I have done, only I have a single battery, mounted the SB175 (yellow) directly onto the front of the seat box. Drilled a hole and used a conical stepper drill to get the right size for cable and grommet, the very short cables are hidden by the carpet.
 Click image to enlarge Chris 2010 Defender 110 Station Wagon, Santorini Black. |
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15th Jan 2018 10:04am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5740
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If any use?
Click image to enlarge 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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15th Jan 2018 10:34am |
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| mikeh501 Member Since: 07 Jan 2013 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 1142
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The anderson plug isnt a good solution for a battery charger. Jump cables will require large diameter cable, whereas a battery charger needs quite small diameter cable. There are different size anderson plugs but I wouldnt mix the boxes up.
For jump leads I would mount the anderson plug on the front of seat box and drill a hole through, grommet it etc. Couple of reasons. It keeps the cable length small and therefore less chance of a future short. It also keeps the plug out of the weather which will protect it from damage etc. Click image to enlarge The CTEK comfort panel indicator is a great solution for charging. Gives you a visual indicator on the dash or wherever, and then you can easily just plug in your CTEK. |
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15th Jan 2018 11:51am |
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| Timcat Member Since: 20 Jul 2016 Location: Tanzania at the moment Posts: 1008
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Thanks for the offer but a friend of mine is a sparks & is kindly donating all parts required! |
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15th Jan 2018 12:41pm |
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| Timcat Member Since: 20 Jul 2016 Location: Tanzania at the moment Posts: 1008
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The issue I have is I need multiple use, compressor point-jump lead point & charging point. I already have a couple of optimates (which you could use the panel din connector) but I'm not keen on drilling two lots of holes in the seat box. As long as the Optimat leads are soldiered well & then secured to the plug as per Brendan's advice I can't see any other way of doing it (apart from doubling up on the holes that is. |
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15th Jan 2018 12:51pm |
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| mikeh501 Member Since: 07 Jan 2013 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 1142
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When it comes to this kind of stuff you can pretty much do anything you want. The anderson plug will handle the current for all your uses. I think however when your holding this huge plug in your hand, and it has some teeny cables hanging out of it, you will realise its a bit of a compromise solution.
To put it into perspective, the cable size diameter for jump cables will be like the big starter motor cables on your defender, whereas the ones for the charger and compressor arent much bigger than speaker cable lol. Just on a safety note.... If you use large diameter cable and a large 175+amp mega fuse to goto your anderson plug from battery; and then you have a really small cable going to a charger or compressor without another smaller fuse. The smaller diameter cable will probably melt before the megafuse blows. Just a thought. If you dont like bringing it out onto the front of the seatbox, maybe take it it out via one of the existing holes in the battery box to somehere else on the body, or bolted up inside the engine bay or front bumper as someone else has said. Other option is to wire in a accessory fuse box like a lot of people do which can wire into your compressor and charger needs. |
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15th Jan 2018 1:19pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19572
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Use the Anderson rubber boots, if you glue the boots to the cable when you fit. (Not fast drying)
That will give you ingress protection and plenty of strain relief. If you use a pilot excess cable, if you need to replace just sacrifice a couple of inches and bin the rubber boot and your good to go again. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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15th Jan 2018 1:45pm |
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