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v8bobber



Member Since: 26 Aug 2012
Location: pembrokeshire
Posts: 437

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Java Black
Anyone good with test meters?
Hi,

Having sorted (I think) the running problem out I was rewarded with a Defender that refused to start.

The battery was flat but I put it down to me doing work on it and having the inside light / stereo on etc however I charged the battery up and it was fine for work the next day and to get home again (short journeys) but when I went to use it again the next day it turned over a couple of times but then resorted to clicking and it was flat.

I took it to a battery specialist and they said that it was fine. Anyway to cut a long story short, I have checking for a battery drain and I think there is one. I have an aftermarket accessory fitted.
With it connnected I have this drain.......



Click image to enlarge


But with it unplugged. The drain is down to this......



Click image to enlarge


Am I right I’m thinking. That the above reading is about 70mllliamps, and the residual drain without it disconnected it’s down to a sensible 10 milliamps? From what I’ve seen on t’internet, 70 milliamps is quite high and is mostly likely the cause of the battery going flat as the vehicle is infrequently used

Dave
Post #670141 10th Dec 2017 7:56pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

yes on the 0 to 16 amp rang
Post #670143 10th Dec 2017 8:11pm
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v8bobber



Member Since: 26 Aug 2012
Location: pembrokeshire
Posts: 437

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Java Black
So is that a yes to it being 10 and 70 milliamps?

Or yes that is too much of a drain?

Not too confident on the old Meter scales......
Post #670150 10th Dec 2017 8:33pm
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miker



Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1758

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Rioja Red
70 mA is correct.

Personally I wouldn't be worried by a 70mA drain, though I've never actually checked the residual drain in my battery.

That's around 2Ah a day for reference!
Post #670154 10th Dec 2017 8:50pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19525

United Kingdom 
The clicking you mention can be down to high earth resistance and commonly insecure battery clamps.

70mA is a little high, but wouldn't cause you problems that fast.
I had issues once at around 220mA and that would be flat after two days, or not enough juice to crank anyway.

Have you checked your readings with all your interior lights completely off?

And also, have you checked your battery voltage with alternator running? Should be around 14.2v. Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧
Post #670157 10th Dec 2017 8:56pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

dorsetsmith wrote:
yes on the 0 to 16 amp rang


yes 70mA if swap pos lead on meter to right mA v socket make Meter scales reading more sense
Post #670159 10th Dec 2017 8:58pm
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v8bobber



Member Since: 26 Aug 2012
Location: pembrokeshire
Posts: 437

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Java Black
custom90steve wrote:
The clicking you mention can be down to high earth resistance and commonly insecure battery clamps.

70mA is a little high, but wouldn't cause you problems that fast.
I had issues once at around 220mA and that would be flat after two days, or not enough juice to crank anyway.

Have you checked your readings with all your interior lights completely off?

And also, have you checked your battery voltage with alternator running? Should be around 14.2v.


The reading with everything off, ie doors shut, everything off, is 10(ish) milliamps. Whatever problem I have is compounded by the fact that I do relatively short journeys to charge up the battery, maybe less than a mile or so each way and the vehicle could sit for a day or two then. It’s not been a problem up till now.
Post #670170 10th Dec 2017 9:35pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19525

United Kingdom 
The colder weather would add to the issue, sounds like you could possibly benefit from a deep cycle battery with a better reserve capacity. Plus useful to know if the alternator is up to correct charging current which I'm pretty sure it will be.

When you had the battery flat issue, was that with the 70mA accessory connected? I am assuming so in this case.

Have you had any issues at all with it not connected? Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧
Post #670175 10th Dec 2017 9:44pm
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v8bobber



Member Since: 26 Aug 2012
Location: pembrokeshire
Posts: 437

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Java Black
There is a whopping “Varta” battery on there at the moment and I think it’s the one that came with the vehicle, but clearly not the original one. I know batteries are expensive but I don’t mind investing in another better one as I have another project on the horizon that I could use the current (see what I did there...) battery.

I know I checked it a couple of days ago, but did it again this evening and with the engine running she’s putting about 14.5 volts in the battery.

The accessory I am referring to is an aftermarket tracker, and a well known one at that! I don’t want to name and shame them just yet as I have been having other issues with them, but yes the issue with the battery going flat was with it connected. Thankfully it was the first thing I tried, led there by the other problems I’ve had with it over the last couple of weeks.

I’ve left is disconnected now and she’s locked in the shed to see if the problem persists. Thankfully I’ve got the old 2.5na 90 to use which at the moment I am loving because of its simplicity

Dave
Post #670196 10th Dec 2017 11:41pm
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RoddyK05



Member Since: 08 Apr 2015
Location: Inverclyde
Posts: 633

Scotland 2004 Defender 90 Td5 SW Yellow
If you are using it as infrequently as you say, I’d stick a battery charger on it every now and then regardless of whether you have a slight drain or not. Especially with the cold weather with us just now, it was -2° all day here. Obviously I have no idea how your tracker is fitted, but is it not supposed to pull a wee bit of current to keep it going? Good you have a N/A 90 too, i had that engine in my series 3 and loved it Thumbs Up
Post #670200 11th Dec 2017 12:44am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19525

United Kingdom 
Many trackers without going into detail pull current that is very low temporarily for a reason, but doesn't draw permanently.
That being said, isn't normally a problem.

I would think about a new Genuine battery and a charger due to infrequent short journeys you are doing as mentioned above.
Thumbs Up
14.5v with the motor running definitely suggests your alternator is in perfect working order.

Thumbs Up Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧
Post #670203 11th Dec 2017 1:26am
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v8bobber



Member Since: 26 Aug 2012
Location: pembrokeshire
Posts: 437

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Java Black
I was sticking it on a charger now and again anyway but the way it is at the moment it would have to be every day pretty much. It’s just not practical. I was in the habit of taking it for a run after work if I finished late.

I will see how I get on with it now the tracker is unplugged. It can stay safely locked in the shed for now.

Yes, the 2.5 na 90 is great. I’m warming to it all the time and I think it’s a keeper. I love the fact it’s so basic, no radio, no clock, nothing. I even like the fact it takes 20 seconds of preheat to get the thing going in the morning - and that’s in the warm! Shocked
Post #670205 11th Dec 2017 1:39am
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