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bluebottle



Member Since: 08 May 2015
Location: Not in my Landy enough!
Posts: 705

United Kingdom 
Transfer box oil change
I’ve finally taken the plunge and had a new transfer box fitted to my TD5 110 to give the engine a break at higher speeds, according to the Ashcroft calculator I should be looking at 70mph with my new box for the revs ‘price’ of 60mph on a standard box.

Anyway, the guys who fitted it for me say that they think many of the components of the ‘new’ box are actually brand new and will therefore need about 500 miles to bed in after which point I should change the oil, presumably because the fresh components will wear in and produce a lovely soup of oily swarf.

Can someone please provide me with an idiot-proof set of instructions, preferably with pictures and a kit list, to do it myself - or, alternatively, tell me how much I should expect to pay for a competent Indy to do it for me?
I’ve used the search function and all I can find is threads on Puma engined vehicles and I think there is something of a difference in both underpinnings and location of them...

Either way, any help much appreciated and I intend to cover my impressions of the alteration and a couple of other mods I had done on my thread for Bertha in the relevant section in due course.
Post #665974 21st Nov 2017 11:29am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16857

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
There is no difference between the TD5 and Puma as far as a transfer box oil change is concerned.

There are threads on here which show the location of the filler and drain plug holes (the filler is awkward to get to since it is above and nearly behind the handbrake drum).

Procedure is essentially as follows:-

1) Drive the vehicle far enough to get the oil properly warm (ideally not to hot for H&S reasons though)
2) Clean the areas around the drain and filler plugs
3) Remove the filler plug
4) Loosen the drain plug
5) Place a suitable container under the drain plug, and remove the plug
6) Go for a coffee while the oil drains (leave it 10 mins or so for all the oil to drain out
7) Clean and replace the drain plug (some people say put sealant on the threads, but it is a BSPT thread so doesn't really need it)
-) Step 8 is intentionally blank because the editor turns the number followed by a bracket into a stupid smiley face Evil or Very Mad
9) Fill through filler until oil level is up to the bottom of the hole.
10) Replace filler plug
11) Test drive and check for leaks afterwards
12) Dispose of old oil at local authority recycling centre (can be combined with 10 if your LA lets in Landrovers)

You will find that filling is much easier if you invest in some for of pump action dispenser, since it is really difficult to fill from an standard gear oil canister due to the location. You may also find it worth leaving the new oil in a warm place such as the airing cupboard overnight beforehand to make it easier to pump/pour.

Also when draining keep the catch container as close to the drain hole as possible, and don't attempt the job out of doors on a windy day. The reasons for this advice should be fairly self-explanatory!

It is a very simple job and should take no more than 1/2 an hour.


Last edited by blackwolf on 21st Nov 2017 12:34pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #665992 21st Nov 2017 12:33pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4389

United Kingdom 
Post #665993 21st Nov 2017 12:33pm
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bluebottle



Member Since: 08 May 2015
Location: Not in my Landy enough!
Posts: 705

United Kingdom 
Thank you both - blackwolf, thanks particularly for the indication that the boxes are pretty much the same. I hadn’t gleaned that from my previous reading.
Looks like a visit to the Opie Oils website beckons then...
Post #666009 21st Nov 2017 1:52pm
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Vogler



Member Since: 02 Nov 2014
Location: Brussels
Posts: 309

Belgium 2015 Defender 110 Td5 HT Chawton White
Nothing to add, but for a newbie it's worth underlining that you should absolutely undo the filler plug first. Otherwise you might find yourself with a drained transfer box and no means to fill it if the plug doesn't bodge.

J
Post #666015 21st Nov 2017 2:21pm
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bluebottle



Member Since: 08 May 2015
Location: Not in my Landy enough!
Posts: 705

United Kingdom 
Right, finally did this today - posted on the My Defender thread as well, but I’m slightly concerned...

Capacity according to the manual is about 2.3l. I got less than 2litres of old oil out, query how it was so low - there don’t appear to be any leaks and I don’t think it’s the sort of system where the oil is burnt off or anything?
Is the shape of the sump such that nearly half a litre of oil could be in there without draining? The vehicle was as near to level as I could get...
Did the Garage just under fill when they put the ‘box in?

Pumped in about 2.5l (including the spillage into my own hair when the pipe slipped out of the fill hole Rolling Eyes ) so fingers crossed it’s all good. Whistle

By the way, torques for the fill and drain bungs are apparently 30nm each. This is tricky with the filler bung as there is a component fouling the straight line of access so you need an adapter or very short tool to get in there, or carefully drive the torque wrench at an angle as I did.
Post #672765 22nd Dec 2017 11:39pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16857

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
If there was no sign of leakage it is likely it was underfilled. It is perhaps possible that an output flange or output flange oil seal has been replaced and the loss not made good. Most likely not filled correctly though.

Torque figures for things like drain plugs and filler plugs are only useful for people (such as those employed by main dealers as mechanics) who have no mechanical aptitude and little common sense. I have never used a torque wrench on a filler or drain plug, taper or parallel, and it wouldn't cross my mind to do so. Just be sensible and don't overtighten them.
Post #672803 23rd Dec 2017 12:24pm
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lightning



Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: High Peak, Derbyshire
Posts: 2223

United Kingdom 
When l drained my TD5 transfer box only 2 litres came out, and l only managed to get 2 litres back in. As for torque settings l just tightened the filler and drain plugs until they were tight enough not to come loose.
Post #672832 23rd Dec 2017 3:36pm
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bluebottle



Member Since: 08 May 2015
Location: Not in my Landy enough!
Posts: 705

United Kingdom 
On torque settings, I happen to have a torque wrench anyway so I figured might as well...
Post #672886 23rd Dec 2017 7:38pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16857

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
It certainly does no harm, and there are some occasions when a torque wrench is essential, but for much of the time good old common sense is just as good.

Glad you got your oil change sorted. One of the nice things about the Defender is the ease with which repairs can, on the whole, be undertaken. I just wish they weren't needed quite so often! Rolling with laughter
Post #672891 23rd Dec 2017 7:55pm
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Lou Sparts



Member Since: 15 Apr 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 1501

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
I find it easier to get the oil into the gearbox or transfer box like this, using a length of half inch pipe and Mrs Sparts best jam making funnel. Saves all that faffing about squeezing bottles underneath.

Click image to enlarge
 2005 Td5 90 XS

Steve
Post #673869 28th Dec 2017 7:39pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

this works with gearbox or transfer box, rear and front axel too see be low, main gear box oil not same but i.e MTF94 and oil volume is height


http://www.discovery2.co.uk/transferbox_oil.html

Post #673898 28th Dec 2017 9:12pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4389

United Kingdom 
I have literally just finished the oil change on Miffy. I use a set of Oil Safe containers and they are simply fabulous. they make the job so simple and clean. Cannot recommend them enough.

Opie oils sell them - https://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-1763-oil-safe.aspx

Post #673912 28th Dec 2017 9:54pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

^^^^^ Thumbs Up Thumbs Up used them at work pay for on work card Whistle

Last edited by dorsetsmith on 28th Dec 2017 10:34pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #673916 28th Dec 2017 9:57pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4389

United Kingdom 
I have had this set for nearly 8 years now. Flawless. Not cheap but worth every penny for quick and efficient oil changes. I cannot stand using litre bottles to fill the gearboxes, such a faff and waste of effort.

Thumbs Up Thumbs Up
Post #673920 28th Dec 2017 10:04pm
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