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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
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United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Post #645402 21st Aug 2017 12:14pm
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Djcla



Member Since: 29 Jul 2017
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 469

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Balvaig wrote:
As you seem keen to fix what you have, then carry out the continuity tests on the metal track starting from where you have 12v. You should then find the break in the track, i.e. where the voltage drops to 2-3v.
I have successfully repaired a rear heated screen using the kit. The repair kits do work and if the gap is small you stand a good chance of a successful repair.


ok thanks , do you have a link to a kit?
Post #645417 21st Aug 2017 1:15pm
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Balvaig



Member Since: 19 Feb 2016
Location: Fife
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Scotland 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 Landmark LE Corris Grey
Post #645432 21st Aug 2017 3:24pm
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Djcla



Member Since: 29 Jul 2017
Location: Gloucestershire
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im making the assumption the current runs along the outer vertical edge of the circuit rather than the break being on one of the horizontal heater elements as it seems to be 2 separate connections .
Post #645435 21st Aug 2017 3:43pm
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Balvaig



Member Since: 19 Feb 2016
Location: Fife
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Scotland 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 Landmark LE Corris Grey
Yes, if you know that your heated rear window works then you should be testing the outer of the two vertical tracks which feeds the light. If you are not certain then test all three vertical tracks. If you have power (12 v) across the spade connectors at the base of the window then the fault will be in one or more of these tracks. Remember you have two separate circuits to test. One feeds the light, the other the heating elements of the screen. It is a process of elimination.
Hope this helps.
Post #645466 21st Aug 2017 6:08pm
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Djcla



Member Since: 29 Jul 2017
Location: Gloucestershire
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Right did some tests black lead on left red on right bottom connectors I get 12v.

If I put black lead on brake light left connection and red lead bottom right I get 12v .

If I put red anywhere other than where the wire meet the window I lose voltage. So I assume there is an issue where it's stuck to Window but not sure how I'd fix that Sad


Click image to enlarge
Post #645742 22nd Aug 2017 9:28pm
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Djcla



Member Since: 29 Jul 2017
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 469

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My eBay second hand brake light arrived said it was for disco / Defender but seems to be too small. The light bit doesn't fill the rectangular gap in the window so shows plastic along the top. I'm guessing this is not meant to look like that anyway
Post #646399 26th Aug 2017 11:06am
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Balvaig



Member Since: 19 Feb 2016
Location: Fife
Posts: 719

Scotland 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 Landmark LE Corris Grey
OK. You now know the wiring to the window and switches are working. As you say, you have an fault with the connection at the window. This is soldered on, but I do not know how. You may be able to resolder this joint but you run the risk of cracking the glass. This may not matter as if the connection cannot be repaired you are back to sourcing a replacement window, or running a wire from the connector to the high level brake light.
Shame the replacement lamp is wrong. Big Cry
Again, I do not know what differences there may be between vehicles/years.
Post #646404 26th Aug 2017 11:36am
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Djcla



Member Since: 29 Jul 2017
Location: Gloucestershire
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I was going to try conductive glue to repair or just run a wire on the one side.
Post #646416 26th Aug 2017 12:54pm
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Balvaig



Member Since: 19 Feb 2016
Location: Fife
Posts: 719

Scotland 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 Landmark LE Corris Grey
Nothing to loose with the conductive glue. Neater if it works. Try bridging with a piece of wire first to check that you can make a circuit, i.e. from your 12v to the nearest point on the track.
Post #646425 26th Aug 2017 2:10pm
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Djcla



Member Since: 29 Jul 2017
Location: Gloucestershire
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Yeah that's what I was thinking of trying, thanks for the tips, I'll keep you posted Smile
Post #646430 26th Aug 2017 2:47pm
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Djcla



Member Since: 29 Jul 2017
Location: Gloucestershire
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Ok I can bridge the gap ok so looks , just trying to work out how to get the connector off screen without smashing it lol. Or find a connector I can glue above it perhaps.
Post #647419 31st Aug 2017 4:10pm
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Balvaig



Member Since: 19 Feb 2016
Location: Fife
Posts: 719

Scotland 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 Landmark LE Corris Grey
I wouldn't try to remove the soldered connector at this stage. Try fine emery paper on the top of the soldered connector and also the spade connector which connects to the car wiring. This might give you the power you need. Then use emery paper (gently) on the nearest bit of the track to the soldered connector. With luck you can join these two clean bits with the conductive silver from the repair kit.
Hope this makes sense.
Post #647442 31st Aug 2017 5:55pm
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Djcla



Member Since: 29 Jul 2017
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 469

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I think so , I've some 600 grit wet n dry sand paper is that pretty much same thing? I assume you mean to put silver repair stuff on the track and connector to try and make a connection?
Post #647481 31st Aug 2017 8:38pm
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Balvaig



Member Since: 19 Feb 2016
Location: Fife
Posts: 719

Scotland 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 Landmark LE Corris Grey
Yes, 600 grit will be fine if you are gentle. You are looking for a shiny bright contact surface on the soldered connector. The track needs more care buf you need a clean surface. The silver paint should brush on and hopefully make a connection. You may need several coats. Some while since I last did it.
Post #647490 31st Aug 2017 9:30pm
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