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Seapod

Member Since: 15 Sep 2016
Location: Devon
Posts: 46

2014 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black

Rusty Hub Nuts - Best solution??

I fitted my new wheels a month or so ago, there is no centre cap with Bowlers. The existing hub nuts looked to be very lightly/thinly painted. Sure enough a few weeks later they look very mank. Any suggestions as to the best paint/process of sorting them out ?

Here is a pic.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge My Defender: http://www.defender2.net/forum/post630322.html#630322

28th Jul 2017 11:17am

LandRoverAnorak

Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey

A bit of ACF 50 is a quick and easy fix. Failing that, take them out and prep and paint as with any steel but make sure that they're properly dry before re-fitting or the socket will take the paint off again. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia

28th Jul 2017 11:22am

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16857

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

Why not just take off the wheel, and prep and paint the hub. The bolts may be rusting now, but the end of the halfshaft won't be far behind.

Doing it in situ avoids putting tool marks on the heads when refitting.

As it is all steel, and the halfshaft was (probably) given a quick waft of paint originally and the bolts are probably yellow passivated, a clean with a hand wire brush and a decent straight-to-metal black gloss would do the job.

You might also want to consider replacing the hex head bolts with socket head caps to remove the risk of your very expensive wheel getting damaged by the corners of the bolt heads when being removed or replaced. The corners of the hex heads stick out just far enough to scratch a close fitting wheel (the Boost alloy does not fit that closely). If you compare the head in the 12-o'clock position in your second photo with the one at 10-o'clock, you'll see what I mean. It is possible to align the heads so the corners don't stick out, but capscrews are a safer option.

These are not standard HT bolts because they are grade 10.9 ('normal' HT is 8.8 ), but standard socket head caps - what people annoyingly insist on calling "Allen bolts" - are 10.9. These are M10 x 45mm, and any decent fastener supplier will be able to supply them (probably for a fraction of the cost of the LR bolts). If you do this, either use thread locker on them, or use a spring washer under the head. Torque to 48lbft.

Click image to enlarge

28th Jul 2017 11:36am

Seapod

Member Since: 15 Sep 2016
Location: Devon
Posts: 46

Thanks Both

Blackwolf, I am going to go with your suggestion about changing the bolts, I see exactly what you mean about potential wheel damage when studying the photos. I will take the wheels off and give the whole hub a clean, corrosion treatment and paint.

Cheers SP My Defender: http://www.defender2.net/forum/post630322.html#630322

31st Jul 2017 10:01am

Seapod

Member Since: 15 Sep 2016
Location: Devon
Posts: 46

blackwolf wrote:
Why not just take off the wheel, and prep and paint the hub. The bolts may be rusting now, but the end of the halfshaft won't be far behind.

Doing it in situ avoids putting tool marks on the heads when refitting.

As it is all steel, and the halfshaft was (probably) given a quick waft of paint originally and the bolts are probably yellow passivated, a clean with a hand wire brush and a decent straight-to-metal black gloss would do the job.

You might also want to consider replacing the hex head bolts with socket head caps to remove the risk of your very expensive wheel getting damaged by the corners of the bolt heads when being removed or replaced. The corners of the hex heads stick out just far enough to scratch a close fitting wheel (the Boost alloy does not fit that closely). If you compare the head in the 12-o'clock position in your second photo with the one at 10-o'clock, you'll see what I mean. It is possible to align the heads so the corners don't stick out, but capscrews are a safer option.

These are not standard HT bolts because they are grade 10.9 ('normal' HT is 8.8 ), but standard socket head caps - what people annoyingly insist on calling "Allen bolts" - are 10.9. These are M10 x 45mm, and any decent fastener supplier will be able to supply them (probably for a fraction of the cost of the LR bolts). If you do this, either use thread locker on them, or use a spring washer under the head. Torque to 48lbft.

Click image to enlarge

Black wolf - would these be acceptable? As far as I can tell they meet the requirements for 10.9 or greater strength.

https://www.accu.co.uk/en/cap-head-screws/16142-SSC-M10-45-12-9

I feel like I need a second opinion on something as critical as the fasteners that connect the wheels to my vehicle! My Defender: http://www.defender2.net/forum/post630322.html#630322

31st Jul 2017 10:18am

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16857

I would have thought so, although it is a slightly wierd webpage. The HT grade 10.9 is what you need, it is unusual for HT bolts to be described as "hardened", which causes me a little unease. Also the picture is a computer generated graphic and not a photo, so it is impossible to tell if they look like normal bolts (ie, rolled threads not machine cut threads, knurled surface to the head, etc.)

I am also amazed at the number of manufacturers quoting DIN912 for these, since this has been superseded. DIN912 as far as I know only defined the standard dimensions.

So, I think that these are probably normal M10x45 grade 10.9 hex socket head bolts, which is what you need, but without seeing one in the flesh as it were, I cannot give you a definitive answer.

I simply visited my local fastener dealer and asked for some, available off the shelf at a very modest cost.

31st Jul 2017 1:21pm

Seapod

Member Since: 15 Sep 2016
Location: Devon
Posts: 46

Thanks again BlackWolf, I have ordered the various bits and pieces and will let you know how I get on My Defender: http://www.defender2.net/forum/post630322.html#630322

4th Aug 2017 1:24pm

Seapod

Member Since: 15 Sep 2016
Location: Devon
Posts: 46

Hi all & especially Blackwolf.

Right, finally on the case with this. Shooting practice this morning meant that I didn't get started until 1600 today. A top tip from a mechanic friend was to get a blowtorch onto the hub nuts before attempting to remove. No need to get them glowing, but enough to soften the copious amounts of factory loc tite. He was speaking from hard won experience, having sheared a number of the very same bolts.

Anyway, having pilfered SWMBO cook's blow torch from the kitchen drawer (a high risk strategy!) I gave them about a 45 sec blast and they came off with some hard graft but nothing too extreme. An hour or so later, all ten hex bolts are now out.

Unfortunately my crap chinese 8mm socket head 1/2" drive snapped as I was torqueing it to 48lb. Lesson (and excuse!) get some decent socket sets.

Here are some half-way pics, will resume tomorrow following a trip to halfords etc

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge My Defender: http://www.defender2.net/forum/post630322.html#630322

16th Sep 2017 8:28pm

Seapod

Member Since: 15 Sep 2016
Location: Devon
Posts: 46

Prepped for spraying, I used Rustoleum CombiColour Black gloss straight to metal paint as have been pleased with it in the past.

Click image to enlarge

And then back together

Click image to enlarge My Defender: http://www.defender2.net/forum/post630322.html#630322

30th Sep 2017 4:38pm

Seapod

Member Since: 15 Sep 2016
Location: Devon
Posts: 46

One of those satisfyingly simple jobs that makes a difference and fractionally improves the overall quality of the wagon.

Before:

Click image to enlarge

After

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Thanks to all for your tips and advice, especially Blackwolf for the suggestion of the hex head bolts to avoid damage to the wheels in the future My Defender: http://www.defender2.net/forum/post630322.html#630322

30th Sep 2017 4:41pm

LR90XS2011

Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 3612

2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green

looks loads better DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy

30th Sep 2017 6:03pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16857

30th Sep 2017 6:11pm

JAY BOY

Member Since: 04 May 2010
Location: Not here
Posts: 1706

30th Sep 2017 6:27pm

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