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| TVR Tommy Member Since: 26 Nov 2013 Location: Bucks Posts: 179   
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Does anyone have a mag drill I could borrow (rent) in the Buckinghamshire area. I need to drill out 2 bolts in the rear crossmember. One now has a tap shattered in it. I've had a couple of goes at trying to get one of the snapped bolts out. They've both sheered flush with the inner rivnut in the rear crossmember member. .
It's proving a real bitch to get the bolts out. |
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13th Jul 2017 8:41pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720 
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I'm not sure you're going to be able to drill out a broken tap? Theyre as hard if not harder than drill bits.
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14th Jul 2017 12:38am |
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| smb Member Since: 15 Jan 2013 Location: Cheshire Posts: 1232 
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I may have the wrong idea on your problem, but have you thought about grinding the collar of the rivet away? Ive done this a couple of times when the bolt has seized then sheared at the face and the rivet lost its grip. If it will work, just remember to put lots of tape around the outer collar of the rivnut then use something like a Dremel or a chisel.
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14th Jul 2017 8:54am |
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| TVR Tommy Member Since: 26 Nov 2013 Location: Bucks Posts: 179
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The reason I want to use a mag drill is that the bits are hollow centered. So tap won't come into play it'll drill around it and take out the captured nut collar. I could use a multi hole cutter but finding one that's 14mm is proving troublesome.
The description of it being a rivnut probably wasn't the best it's more of a captured nut. |
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14th Jul 2017 9:57am |
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| Romadog Member Since: 07 Jul 2011 Location: Powys Posts: 1746 |
Could we have a pic of your predicament please?
If nothing else it puts some colour into thread unless its a black and white pic?!! 
A good handle on the situation and locality helps when advising on next step forward  |
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14th Jul 2017 10:23am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16858 
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How big is the tap you've broken?
The hole up the middle of a 14mm Rotabroach cutter is only going to be 6mm to accomodate the standard 5mm pilot pin. You'd also have to run the drill without the pilot pin (and hence without coolant/lube), which tends to lead to cutter breakage. Which insert/hole is it? One of the smaller towbar fastenings? |
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14th Jul 2017 10:42am |
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| TVR Tommy Member Since: 26 Nov 2013 Location: Bucks Posts: 179
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It is the bottom tow bar /nas step fasterning that's giving me greif.
I've now found a multi hole cutter that fits so I'll have a go at drilling out the captured nuts collar later. I still need to get the middle snapped bolt out. I was thinking heat and a dreaded easyout. I must admit it's not easy drilling the hole centered and straight up whilst laying on your back. |
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14th Jul 2017 11:31am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16858
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Aha, I wondered if it was perhaps those!
You may find that it screws in more easily than out, so you could drill a hole in the end, tap a torx bit into the hole (without spreading the bolt) and try screwing it in, the theory being that the bolt thread in the insert is in better condition than the bolt thread in the crud in the crossmember. I imagine that you have already doused the offending fittings with PLus-Gas or similar through the access holes in the rear face of the crossmember? I can well imagine how hard it is to drill accurately upwards, in an unfomrtable position and limited space, with swarf cascading on top of you! Been there, done that, more times than I care to remember. You may find that bolting some kind of bar or supporting structure onto the crossmember using the other holes may help. One thing I can tell you is that unless you bolt a hefty flat plate on the bottom of the crossmember first, a mag drill won't help you at all to drill upwards in this case - the crossmember isn't big, thick, flat, or probably clean enough to provide adequate adhesion. When you do finally manage to get them out and are fitting new ones, I suggest copious use of appropriate lubricant, grease, ACF-50, or similar to try to prevent the new ones corroding into place when the crossmember fills up with grot. |
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14th Jul 2017 11:43am |
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| Lateralus Member Since: 05 Jan 2016 Location: Ohio Posts: 185 
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Use a hard punch and hammer to shatter the broken tap out. The only other way to remove the tap is with a carbide end mill in a vertical mill which is out of the question in your application. Wear gloves and goggles.
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17th Jul 2017 7:07am |
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