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Tiger



Member Since: 06 Jul 2012
Location: Wales
Posts: 2265

2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Java Black
Rusty the S2a - The rebuild thread.
So this is Rusty a solid but tatty 1966 Series 2a


Click image to enlarge


Last edited by Tiger on 15th Jul 2017 3:20pm. Edited 3 times in total
Post #634645 30th Jun 2017 11:35am
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ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1726

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
Remove the steel, clean the aluminium up well and protect it and it will stop.


An insulating layer that ideally stops water getting into the joint and forming an electrolyte between the dissimilar metals will stop it in the future.
Post #634647 30th Jun 2017 11:39am
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Tiger



Member Since: 06 Jul 2012
Location: Wales
Posts: 2265

2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Java Black
For context I've cut out the steel battery box form my Series 2 and replacing it with an Aluminium version.

Where it had previously been in contact there is some dreaded white powder and most of it will come off but even after wirebrusing / flappy disc there will still be 'pits' where it is quite deep.

Old Battery Box (Swiss cheese model)


New Shiny Aluminium one


Seat Box
Post #634648 30th Jun 2017 11:46am
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Balvaig



Member Since: 19 Feb 2016
Location: Fife
Posts: 719

Scotland 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 Landmark LE Corris Grey
Neat construction job. But don't forget that your fixings need to be protected if steel.
Original box/ supports in not too bad condition for 50 years old though!
Post #634665 30th Jun 2017 12:37pm
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ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1726

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
As above, nice job, just for total clarification it is aly not a YRM stainless jobby?

Anyway, clean it back, prime and sikaflex/tiger seal the joints and it will outlast us all!

If it is a stainless version, or for anyone who is bored enough to be reading this far, treat stainless the same as steel, prime it, drill, debur and remove the swarf, sikaflex fill the joint, rivet the two together, clean up and then wish you'd remembered to wear gloves for the next two weeks as the stain wears off your fingers.......

Good luck

Keith
Post #634667 30th Jun 2017 12:43pm
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Tiger



Member Since: 06 Jul 2012
Location: Wales
Posts: 2265

2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Java Black
Defiantly Aluminium Smile It's very light and bends easy.

The black stuff is Sikaflex, it's already on my hands Whistle
Post #634670 30th Jun 2017 12:51pm
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Tiger



Member Since: 06 Jul 2012
Location: Wales
Posts: 2265

2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Java Black
A few more photos

Sanded / wire wheeled the corrosion back, etch primed and filled with a bit of body filler.


Click image to enlarge


Also where I'd replaced the side section I had to drill out the spot welds, at first I put some pop rivets in but these looked crap so I drilled them out and replaced with countersunk aircraft rivets. Really please with how they are looking like the original spot welds Thumbs Up

I reckon when sanded and painted it will look pretty much original


Click image to enlarge

Post #634766 30th Jun 2017 7:18pm
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ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1726

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
very smart!
Post #634804 30th Jun 2017 9:39pm
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Tiger



Member Since: 06 Jul 2012
Location: Wales
Posts: 2265

2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Java Black
Bit more work replacing the rear strengthening angle bar at the rear of the seat box.

Post #635136 2nd Jul 2017 7:01pm
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Tiger



Member Since: 06 Jul 2012
Location: Wales
Posts: 2265

2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Java Black
Okay, managed a bit more time on the beatbox refurb

Thumbs Up

All rivets are now original Domeheads (apart from 2 pops which I'll fill) and ground in some 'fake' spot welds where the countersunk rivets are.

So far pretty pleased

About to position new battery box


Clamped up


arrggghhhh! Sikaflex!!


Grinding in spot welds


Primed




Last edited by Tiger on 5th Jul 2017 7:21pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #635805 5th Jul 2017 6:52pm
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ian series 1



Member Since: 17 Nov 2014
Location: south
Posts: 3127

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Bonatti Grey
Top job that man Thumbs Up 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"

Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered.
Post #635807 5th Jul 2017 7:14pm
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Tiger



Member Since: 06 Jul 2012
Location: Wales
Posts: 2265

2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Java Black
Cheers Thumbs Up

Guess what the next job is Big Cry

Post #635815 5th Jul 2017 7:25pm
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ian series 1



Member Since: 17 Nov 2014
Location: south
Posts: 3127

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Bonatti Grey
What's the tub like? Confused

My pet hate.... Big Cry 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"

Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered.
Post #635817 5th Jul 2017 7:29pm
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Tiger



Member Since: 06 Jul 2012
Location: Wales
Posts: 2265

2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Java Black
As you'd expect for 50 years old really

The crossmember beams are crusty but seem solid enough I'm hoping some rust convertor will lengthen their life.

The wings are a bit dinted and I can't work out how to straighten them, they have a spring memory which means body filler won't work and they are too thin and flexi.

Where it's attached to the chassis that's quite powdery and holey

Not sure of a plan of attack yet...
Post #635819 5th Jul 2017 7:35pm
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ian series 1



Member Since: 17 Nov 2014
Location: south
Posts: 3127

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Bonatti Grey
You will have to do some Annealing to the wings by the sounds of it?
It's not too bad to do, just don't go past the point of no return... Big Cry

When I did mine, I got an old scrap wing to practise on before I started the originals,
It's a good way of working out what looks and feels right.

Wink 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"

Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered.
Post #635828 5th Jul 2017 8:11pm
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