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| rustandoil Member Since: 08 Sep 2012 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 664   
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Take a look at R-Tech they are on the Innsworth trading estate, I am very pleased with my R-Tech gear
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28th Jun 2017 6:38am |
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| Lightningtweeds Member Since: 16 May 2017 Location: Fintry Posts: 461  
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DEFFO not Clarke....
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28th Jun 2017 8:21am |
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| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1758  
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Think about what sort of work you want to do and decide on a current rating based on that.
Don't bother with gasless. I have an old sip 171 that I picked up second hand on here. Took a bit of use and fiddling to get the wire feed running smoothly, but other than that it's a peach! Also get a half decent auto darkening helmet. My new one has variable tint and a slight delay after the arc extinguishes, makes the job so much easier! |
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28th Jun 2017 8:52am |
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| jonesfrm Member Since: 03 Apr 2017 Location: Gloucester- Churchdown Posts: 104
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Okay- thanks for the advice...
Just wondering whether a SIG would be any cop... they are a lot cheaper are they not? Yes- I agree that a decent helmet is imperative as the last time I done it the delay was so long I messed the weld up! |
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28th Jun 2017 9:58pm |
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| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1758
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I think the newer machines are a bit more cheaply made yeah, this is an old tank of a transformer thing. Wire feed needs pulling apart and cleaning up/lubing periodically, but regular usage keeps her sweet.
Detachable euro torch is another thing to look out for, generally a sign of a better welder. |
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28th Jun 2017 10:09pm |
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| hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2227  
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I was in this quandary in 2010/2011 and asked on the mig-welding forum where to my surprise Clarke came recommended!(gas, not gasless).
I went for the 160TE which I used heavily for the first two to three years for car restoration/prep/fabrication Since then I have used it less frequently (probably once per month or so) but for heavier stuff like fence/gate fabrication, furniture making, building steelwork etc as well as light stuff like welding up friend's MOT fails. Got to be fair it's been faultless! For the DIY'er, or in your case beginner, you have to ask yourself do you need, or would you notice the difference between, a decent MIG and a professional MIG? Definitely don't even consider gasless. I couldn't agree more with the auto mask comment. If I were restricted by budget I would prefer to pay a bit less for a mig if it meant I could get an auto mask. I had an account with BOC for a few years and ran mine on Argon/CO2 mix. Since then I found a CO2 bottle on a demolition site I was working on - I couldn't tell any difference so never went back to Argon/CO2 mix. Also something to consider, don't get sucked in by how high the amps go... Look at the range and also how low it will go too. Remember that you can weld thicker stuff than the welder is officially rated to by preparing edges (grinding V-grooves etc)  |
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29th Jun 2017 9:54am |
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| Intercept Member Since: 27 Feb 2017 Location: Suffolk Posts: 587 
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I've been using a Sealey Supermig 140 for at least 10 years which has proved to be ideal for bulkhead patching, light chassis work and small fabrications. Initially with CO2 but once I tried CO2/Argon stayed with it as I found it much easier to use. The high capacity disposables are the same price here - regardless of gas choice:
https://www.thewelderswarehouse.com/Weldin...ers-2.html If you're starting from scratch then be sure to buy a pack of replacement shrouds and tips, as beginners tend to get through these much more quickly than more experienced users. |
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29th Jun 2017 10:40am |
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| jonesfrm Member Since: 03 Apr 2017 Location: Gloucester- Churchdown Posts: 104
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Thanks for the help definitely given me something to think about!!
Will obviously consider H and S as that is vital. Will have a scout around... |
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29th Jun 2017 6:34pm |
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| proloForêt Member Since: 16 Mar 2017 Location: Montereau Posts: 248  
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For a beginner I would suggest you take a gas unit with a EURO torch (non-permanent live).
Usually the most low down unit will not have this, but it is correct to look one up in the range. It is a good indication of the machine. If it is light use then do not worry too much about power and duty cycle. Look for a good range so you can go low with volts. Important for beginners I am with the feeling. Many units are clones from China but the UK is known as a good source place for units and consumables. Partucilarly with CO2 gas, in UK you have various good options better than disposables without needing a mortgage. Some French I know take things from UK. A brand of gas "hobbyweld" is good because large bottles with no time limit or renting charge. Lots being used in Normandy and near Calais regions! French charge for gas is extreme in comparison. If you go gassless, you will not be happy in the longer. I have a Telwin 5.2Kw. More than needed for vehicle work. |
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29th Jun 2017 6:59pm |
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| Boost Member Since: 17 Oct 2014 Location: Gloucestershire Posts: 198 
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Are you doing an apprenticeship or already in the profession? 200Tdi Big turbo party wagon - Club86 on YouTube
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26th Jul 2017 8:45pm |
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| defender9 Member Since: 12 Mar 2016 Location: Fylde Coast Posts: 1613 
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I bought a Clarke Mig several years ago to repair my 80in chassis, previously only had an old Arc welder. I have to say the Clarke Mig was very good as a DIY hobby type bit of kit. I'm sure some professional welders wouldn't rate them but once you had got the hang of them they were very good IMO and I had no problems with wire feed.
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27th Jul 2017 10:16am |
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| MaxRPM Member Since: 15 Jan 2013 Location: South Staffs Posts: 1114
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I've also got a Clarke Mig welder, used for about 20 years now. No issues at all.
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27th Jul 2017 2:50pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2198 
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I have had multiple Clarke MIGs for ages and they are fine for the money. When I come to replace however I will probably buy an RTech machine as their Plasma cutter I have is superb.
I recently upgraded the torch on my 151TE/160 to the 'industrial' spec rather than the hobby type most low end machines have. Tips and shrouds are much better quality, last longer and are cheaper! Once had a gassless MIG which was a waste of space. If you are buying new for sub £300ish I think you will find that the Clarke, Sealey, SIP etc are all the same Chinese made equipment rebranded anyway. Personally after appaling service from SIP I would not bother with them myself. If you are serious about getting into a lot of welding or will be frequently welding more than 5-6mm plate (top end of a single phase 13A model) then you might be better off buying a used/refurbed machine (i.e. Lincoln Electric, Kempi, Murex). These are a bit over the top for hobby use though and are usually 3ph. After starting off on disposable CO2 cylinder which last seconds and cost ££. I have now moved onto rent free Argoshield (Arrgon/CO2) and will never go back. Welds are cleaner, less splatter, more heat into the material and generally a better looking weld. Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread 84' 90 3.9 V8 Caged Pickup Build Thread - Now For Sale Mobile Diesel Heater Build Thread |
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27th Jul 2017 3:23pm |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971 
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If you're only welding thin stuff then follow all the advice above and get a MIG.
If you have never welded anything before or want to do thicker stuff then I would suggest starting off with a combination stick/TIG welder. The current generation of stick welders are a dream to use and not expensive. A stick welder will be able to weld much heavier stuff than a MIG (they can do thin stuff too if you get some thin welding rods) and for really thin things or the best controllability then you've got the TIG option. I used to have access to a very good 3ph MIG at work (plus a Fronius stick/TIG) but when I left there and came to buy my own welder I bought a Parweld 160A Stick/TIG welder and I'm pretty confident that was the correct decision for me. What my welder lacks are AC which is the best way of doing aluminium - although I've been shown recently you can stick weld aluminium - and options for foot pedal control of TIG (which is the best way of doing TIG). |
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6th Aug 2017 11:03am |
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