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ChrisCM



Member Since: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Cornwall uk
Posts: 572

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Santorini Black
Wiper woes
Hi Guys,

Just had the following experience in my Puma110. Set out yesterday morning to drive to Scotland from Cornwall. Got about 30 miles and the wipers packed up mid sweep, checked fuse blown. Replaced. Still no wipers. I suspected the park switch which I had already replaced on SWMBOS Puma 90. ( her wipers wouldn't stop).

So returned home and went to local main dealer today, Monday, got a new switch and fitted it, about 15mins. Switched on ignition and wipers parked, result thought I! But when I switched them on again they stopped mid sweep, after switching the ignition off and on again they parked so I thought need lubing, the spindles looked dry, copious WD40 and 3 in 1 oil and they seemed to work fine.

We got to Penrith, and after a MacDonalds stop put on wipers and they proceeded to get tangled up with each other. The offending wiper is the near side. I took this off and the drivers one (thankfully) worked fine.

Now the problem obviously lies in the ns wheel box and/or the rack cable. I can probably get to this wheelbox using the same methods as getting to the park switch but realistically if the ns has gone os can't be far behind so probably best to renew both boxes and the cable. I've found a number of posts suggesting that removing the dash or moving it forward is relatively simple.

But is it really?, do you have to remove the instrument cluster and steering wheel to get it far enough forward to get to the bolts securing the wheel boxes?, what about the ventilation pipe work? Does it have to come out. We recently renewed the entire windscreen wiper system on my sons 300 tdi and that was a pain, literally!

Any thoughts, advice greatfully received!

Chris
. 2010 Defender 110 Station Wagon, Santorini Black.
Post #633807 27th Jun 2017 12:09am
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Fifth Horseman



Member Since: 08 Mar 2011
Location: Lanarkshire
Posts: 322

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
All switches on the dash need to be unplugged, heater controls released from the dash (4 screws). The steering wheel, steering cowl, instrument panel and demister vent pipework need to be removed access the rear of the wiper wheel-boxes, the whole dash doesn't need to be completely removed but does need to be released to give access.

Its easy enough to do if you take your time, just a bit fiddly in places. The straight run of the drive cable makes it a bit easier than on the earlier Defenders, but having to remove the dash compensates for this Sad
Post #633854 27th Jun 2017 12:16pm
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Lightningtweeds



Member Since: 16 May 2017
Location: Fintry
Posts: 461

Scotland 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Stornoway Grey
LR quotes 8h to change spindles but my indy charged 3h.
Post #633861 27th Jun 2017 12:31pm
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ChrisCM



Member Since: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Cornwall uk
Posts: 572

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Santorini Black
Interesting, I looked at the LR workshop manual and their process seems to involve the complete removal of the dash. Perhaps your indi is only moving it just far enough forward to gain access. If the Official LR methods takes 8 hrs I wonder if you're paying for their tea and lunch breaks as well!

It's a bit like the Official LR methods of changing the cam belt on a Disco 3, take the body off!

Thanks for the info Fifth Horseman, rather as I suspected, I'll get the parts ordered, 2 wheel boxes and a cable so they are waiting for me when I get back to Cornwall. 2010 Defender 110 Station Wagon, Santorini Black.
Post #633981 27th Jun 2017 10:59pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16857

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
It's not difficult, loosen the dash and pull it away from the bulkhead. I've done it twice in the last 210,000 miles.
Post #633983 27th Jun 2017 11:02pm
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 3995

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Lightningtweeds wrote:
LR quotes 8h to change spindles but my indy charged 3h.


Even a ham fisted fool like me, following the workshop manual and removing the entire dash managed to replace my wiper mech in under 8 hours. LR really do like to rinse their customers. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #634009 28th Jun 2017 7:35am
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ChrisCM



Member Since: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Cornwall uk
Posts: 572

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Santorini Black
Thanks for all the advice and encouragement guys, I intend to wait for a couple of dry days when I get home ( no undercover work area Sad ) and get stuck in, as you've all said, slow and steady.

Black Wolf, was most impressed with your North Devon wiper mishap in another post, was that in a Puma? If so Bow down

One more thing, do I have to take the motor out to replace the rack cable?

Thanks again all,

Chris 2010 Defender 110 Station Wagon, Santorini Black.
Post #634043 28th Jun 2017 9:34am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16857

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
ChrisCM wrote:
Black Wolf, was most impressed with your North Devon wiper mishap in another post, was that in a Puma?


Yes, 2007 Puma.

ChrisCM wrote:
One more thing, do I have to take the motor out to replace the rack cable?


Yes, take the motor out, it's by far the easiest way.

In outline to replace the wheelboxes and rack, you need to:-

1) Remove the wipers from their spindles,
2) Loosen the dash from the bulkhead so that you can cram various body parts between the dash and bulkhead in a fairly painful and knuckle-scraping way
3) Undo the big nut that secures the outer tube of the drive rack to the motor.
4) Unbolt the motor from the bulkhead and remove it from the car, pulling the drive rack out of the tube as you do so (it'll be greasy and horrible, so keep it clear of clean things like seats)
5) Unbolt the gearbox cover of the motor and it is then obvious how to detach the rack from the motor.
6) With the help of a second person (unless you have astonishingly long arms), remove the wheelboxes.

This is a little bit of a simplification, an overview, if you like, but in essence it is all there is to it.

Reassembly is the reverse, but make sure that the wheelboxes, rack, and gearbox are extremely well lubricated, because you don't want to do this job too often!
Post #634057 28th Jun 2017 10:37am
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ChrisCM



Member Since: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Cornwall uk
Posts: 572

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Santorini Black
Hi Black Wolf,

Thanks for that, when we did my sons 300tdi we were replacing the motor as well so obviously had it out and fitted the new cable rack.

I'll try and take some photos as I go along, maybe useful for others.

Thanks again,

Chris 2010 Defender 110 Station Wagon, Santorini Black.
Post #634157 28th Jun 2017 4:51pm
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carrotbay



Member Since: 18 Aug 2013
Location: Northants, UK
Posts: 694

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 BMW M57 3.0 Diesel XS CSW Auto Santorini Black
Hi .. I had exactly the same issue last week and decided the have a look last weekend. I suspecting the rack so was seeing whether I could get it out without removing the dash. It was one of those moments where you start taking things apart and then step back and go Censored

I ended up taking out the dash completely to get to the wheel boxes. I found the rack to be fine but the wheel boxes practically seized. I had to put them in a vice to get them to turn with a pair of grips. I'm hoping that the resistance they've been putting on the motor hasn't damaged it.

New wheelboxes have now arrived (genuine from 4x4island .. seemed the cheapest) and will have a go at putting it all back together again this weekend .. hoping for no left over screws!



Click image to enlarge


Best of luck! 2008 Defender 110 XS SW - M57N2 / 6HP28X
Post #634240 28th Jun 2017 8:50pm
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ChrisCM



Member Since: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Cornwall uk
Posts: 572

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Santorini Black
Wow, I was hoping not to have to go that far 😱, is it necessary to take the gear sticks off?

Chris 2010 Defender 110 Station Wagon, Santorini Black.
Post #634284 28th Jun 2017 10:52pm
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carrotbay



Member Since: 18 Aug 2013
Location: Northants, UK
Posts: 694

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 BMW M57 3.0 Diesel XS CSW Auto Santorini Black
I found that I needed that extra room that I got when I removed the gearbox cover. Wasn't a big problem .. 8 screws or so and unclip the gearstick. I think in total it took about a hour or so to get it apart but no doubt longer to get it back together again. 2008 Defender 110 XS SW - M57N2 / 6HP28X
Post #634289 28th Jun 2017 11:49pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16857

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I renewed the complete wiper system without disturbing the gear levers.
Post #634292 29th Jun 2017 12:48am
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Lightningtweeds



Member Since: 16 May 2017
Location: Fintry
Posts: 461

Scotland 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Stornoway Grey
I seem to remember reading that the Puma spindle gears are now made of plastic for quietness but strip easily but pre Puma were aluminium that lasted longer?
Post #634301 29th Jun 2017 7:40am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16857

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I've not heard that myself, and the last set I bought (perhaps 3 years ago) were definitiely not plastic. Anyone bought some recently?

I don't like the idea of plastic gears. I can't actually believe that it would have been done for noise reasons, but I could believe cost reasons.
Post #634320 29th Jun 2017 9:18am
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