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Magoyo

Member Since: 04 Feb 2022
Location: Buenos Aires
Posts: 44

2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey

Air conditioning - bi-zone ??

I circulated quite a few kms this summer with my Defender TD4, many of the days with tremendous heat, and I detected in many of those days that the Air Conditioning did not reach a basic comfort temperature, especially after many kms the heat began to sprout from the feet, under the seats.
but the main thing that I detected is that there is a very large difference between the temperature of the air that comes out of the nozzles on the driver's side (much colder) than those on the passenger side. I made basic measurements with a dry thermometer, and the differences with the Air and full blower reaches 8/9 degrees between the two, the same with air recirculation. Also turning off the air conditioning, only ambient air, the differences are noticeable although much smaller (2/3 degrees)
There are also differences in the air flow between both sides, with a reduction on the right side (passenger)

Measurements are as follows:
room temperature 24 degrees
Air on/Forcing in III
Left side 10/11 degrees
Right side 17/18 degrees

then turning off Air, only forcing in III
Left side 21 degrees
right side 23 degrees

What I did next was check (by hand) the temperature of the radiator water bypass valve, checking that with the heating off, the hose was hot and the return was also hot, instead the hose that continued to the evaporator was fira, so there should be no leak or poor closure of that valve....
I really have no logical answer.
I still have to clean the radiator of bugs and leaves, but the difference in temperature and flow seems strange to me.
Does anyone have any possible clues?
Thanks
Magoyo

by the way I forgot to clarify that I verified the different temperatures according to the table in the workshop manual, and the readings on the nozzles on the driver's side are correct, but not on the passenger side. very different, above 7/8 degrees more....

5th Feb 2022 12:10am

Race.it

Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 741

2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White

Check the valve that is under the bonnet that the hot water goes into. Mine does not close fully and hence leaks warm/hot air into the cabin, if I push it fully closed the aircon works nicely. Think there are threads about putting springs on this valve to make it shut better. Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details

5th Feb 2022 9:02am

Ianh

Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1771

^^^^^^^^^

This is the link. https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic78660.html?highlight=valve

5th Feb 2022 10:57am

Magoyo

Member Since: 04 Feb 2022
Location: Buenos Aires
Posts: 44

Race.it wrote:
Check the valve that is under the bonnet that the hot water goes into. Mine does not close fully and hence leaks warm/hot air into the cabin, if I push it fully closed the aircon works nicely. Think there are threads about putting springs on this valve to make it shut better.

Thanks Race.it, I had assumed the same thing and therefore I touched the valve ducts by hand but apparently there were no leaks, but I am going to try to force the closure since perhaps the hot water leak is minimal but enough to affect the cooling.
Thank you and very nice your truck by the way!

5th Feb 2022 2:20pm

Magoyo

Member Since: 04 Feb 2022
Location: Buenos Aires
Posts: 44

Ianh wrote:
^^^^^^^^^

This is the link. https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic78660.html?highlight=valve

Excelents ideas Ianh ¡ i will try that and then comment how it goes

5th Feb 2022 2:21pm

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