 | Home > Technical > 15A fuse F29 keeps blowing on '63 110 XS |
 
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554  |
F29 feeds (10 Amps)
diagnostic socket 
instrument cluster clock Analogue Radio CD player Lamp interior you have short cct blowing your fuse check all above Last edited by dorsetsmith on 20th May 2017 2:29pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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18th May 2017 10:51am |
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| rotters-uk Member Since: 18 May 2017 Location: MANCHESTER Posts: 6 
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Thanks for the information, that makes sense.
How do I work out which of these components is causing the problem? The fuse on the radio is ok so I assume it is not that, do I need to take out the clock etc? Any suggestions greatly received! |
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18th May 2017 11:16am |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
by isolating items you can find problem
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18th May 2017 11:19am |
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| rotters-uk Member Since: 18 May 2017 Location: MANCHESTER Posts: 6
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Ok, so I have isolated the radio, internal lights and analogue clock but fuse still blows. If I remove fuse FL5 from under the seat it doesn't but as soon as I reinsert the FL5 the F29 blows.
You said instrument cluster - how do I isolate that?? |
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18th May 2017 3:57pm |
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| Leviathan Member Since: 24 Oct 2015 Location: Staffs Posts: 247
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Personally I would first trace the wires to the diagnostic socket and see if there's any shorting/pinched wires in that.
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18th May 2017 6:39pm |
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| rotters-uk Member Since: 18 May 2017 Location: MANCHESTER Posts: 6
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Thanks for the suggestion. I will try that today.
Do I need to remove the dashboard facia to do this? |
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19th May 2017 8:21am |
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| xpertoftheseas Member Since: 05 Jan 2016 Location: Salisbury, Wilts Posts: 164 
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Take a look at this....
 Click image to enlarge If you pull FL5 (Fusible Link) this feeds F29 which in turn feeds the instrument cluster. This is a keep-alive for the cluster, so explains why your trip meter is always at zero when you start as the IGN is lost when you stop the engine. The bad side of this is that the instrument cluster feeds a load of inputs and outputs and you will need to identify each one - some of these are... Heated Front screen timer Handbrake Switch Reverse Lamp Hazard Lights/Indicators Can Bus Hi/Lo Range If you need some drawings let me know. I would suggest pulling out C1040L connector from the back of the instrument panel and getting a multimeter ready. Open up the Electric Reference library.... Click image to enlarge ...and the wiring diagrams, and identify each of the above outputs. With the exception of the CAN bus lines, you should be able to check each output to see if any are short to -ve. Of course, the instrument cluster itself could be faulty but unlikely. It will most likely be one of the outputs which heads underneath the Defender and is chafing or a connector full of crud. These sorts of faults are just a process of elimination. Hot cup of tea, laptop with the drawings, a multimeter, pen and paper and patience. You will find the culprit. Here to help if needed. I am free this weekend so if you need some talking through let me know. My 10th Land Rover, but my first Defender. |
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20th May 2017 2:04am |
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| rotters-uk Member Since: 18 May 2017 Location: MANCHESTER Posts: 6
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Thanks for the advice expert, I will have a go at this today and let you know how I get on...
Wish me luck! |
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20th May 2017 10:48am |
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| rotters-uk Member Since: 18 May 2017 Location: MANCHESTER Posts: 6
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Ok, am I being really stupid?
I have just disconnected the C1040L connector on the back of the instrument cluster and before I start trying to trace a particular problem component I decided to replace fuse F29 to check this is where the problem is. However, the fuse blew again as soon as I tried to insert!? So I now have my clock, radio, internal lights and instrument cluster all disconnected (which I assumed would prevent the sort circuit) and the fuse keeps blowing? Am I missing something obvious?? |
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20th May 2017 12:59pm |
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| Balvaig Member Since: 19 Feb 2016 Location: Fife Posts: 719  
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Not stupid at all. Shorts are a nightmare to trace but you are narrowing down the area at fault. You look as if you have a short in the loom after the fuse. From reading the thread you have isolated everything except the diagnostic port and the loom. I think if you have the right gear you can test for a short without the fuse.
Never had to test a loom, but others with expertise should be able to advise. |
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20th May 2017 1:26pm |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
diagnostic socket (my mistake) its in under dash fuse box |
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20th May 2017 2:53pm |
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| xpertoftheseas Member Since: 05 Jan 2016 Location: Salisbury, Wilts Posts: 164
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Hi. PMd you also.
Although this may sound stupid, this is a good thing. What it means is that you have a cable fault in the loom between the fuse box F29 and the connector C1040L. If you remove F29 (it's blown anyway but just in case) disconnect C1040L and get a resistance reading between pin 1 on C1040L and ground, this will confirm a wiring loom problem. If it is low resistance then you will need to trace the loom from C1040L back to the fuse box. The wire colour is brown I think (check the drawing I posted). If you need the loom routing let me know and I can post the drawings later). You need to look for any damage to the loom, chafing rubbing etc. Good luck My 10th Land Rover, but my first Defender. |
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20th May 2017 2:55pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19517
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^^^^ Sounds good to me.
That connector has often had issues it's self. Also, make sure the battery is disconnected when doing any work electrical. Even testing you can cause more problems than when you start otherwise. It maybe a pinched or chaffed wire, but possibly a short nearest the connector. Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~ I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧 |
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20th May 2017 5:15pm |
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