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JustFX



Member Since: 10 Nov 2016
Location: Mendip Hills
Posts: 190

United Kingdom 2000 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Coniston Green
Do you fuse jump lead connector?
The plan is to fit an Anderson connector (170A) onto the base of the passenger's seat. Now would you fit a fuse to this connector even though it is a short run of wire? If I was to fit a fuse what kind of rating would I be looking at?

Would it also be wise to fit an isolator or is that just extra faff for no advantage? 
Post #620787 1st May 2017 4:17pm
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trooper



Member Since: 11 Mar 2014
Location: west sussex
Posts: 101

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Tamar Blue
Most definitely "yes" (big fire risk without), Fuse size depends on what you are going to use the supply for.
Post #620790 1st May 2017 4:39pm
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JustFX



Member Since: 10 Nov 2016
Location: Mendip Hills
Posts: 190

United Kingdom 2000 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Coniston Green
The idea being to save me the effort of having to remove the seat gubbins every time I need to jump another vehicle I would just add an Anderson connector to the base of the seat then put Anderson connectors on my current jump leads. 
Post #620794 1st May 2017 4:44pm
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trooper



Member Since: 11 Mar 2014
Location: west sussex
Posts: 101

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Tamar Blue
Starting another diesel engined vehicle from cold, could pull upwards of 150-200 amps momentarily, so you are looking at a very large fuse. (not a good idea).
Post #620802 1st May 2017 5:01pm
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DAZ110



Member Since: 06 Dec 2007
Location: East Sussex
Posts: 2001

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Barolo Black
Some info here might help:
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic19462....+connector
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic35114....tor+bonnet

I've got a 300amp fuse on mine fitted very close to the battery, and (2.5 metre if I remember correctly?) leads that run out of the battery box then underneath and up and into the engine bay with the Anderson connector fitted near the heater box.

I preferred the connector to be under the bonnet for easy access from either side of the vehicle, rather than on the seat box.

All made up and supplied by Tim at the Mobile centre and fitted by me.

Couple of photos:


Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge
Post #620806 1st May 2017 5:33pm
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BigRuss



Member Since: 15 May 2010
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 2785

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
I have mine mounted on the front bumper but have the live run through an isolator so i don't have constant power sent to the front. Russell
2011MY 110 XS USW Black
Post #620840 1st May 2017 7:05pm
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davew



Member Since: 02 Jan 2012
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 888

England 1990 Defender 90 V8 Petrol PU Auto Rioja Red
A mega fuse will do the job if you need one. Whether you need one and whether you need an isolator will depend on how you install it, how you run the cables and how much trust you have in the people using it. To an extent it also depends on the quality and size of the cable you use.

There's always a dilemma when fitting heavy cables to a battery. You can't have the whole thing fused, that's impossible.
If you install a mega fuse where will you mount it ? The cable between the mega fuse and the battery is still unfused and if you can't run a cable between an Anderson on the side of the seat and the battery terminal with suitable protection (conduit, rubber grommets etc...) then how are you going to make the run to the fuse safe ?

The same applies to a key switch isolator, you always end up running additional cable in order to isolate the cable that was already there. Solenoid isolators can be installed right next to the battery terminal so are better in that regard.

If you consider your cable run to be safe then you are never doing anything more with the Anderson than you would with a traditional jump start cable which you would never consider having a fuse inline with. You do, hopefully, take extra care though when handling and one of the disadvantages of the Anderson for this purpose is the inability to connect one cable at a time.

All that said, if you don't trust the people likely to connect something to the Anderson then adding a fuse might be a good option Smile http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/
Post #620892 1st May 2017 8:45pm
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JustFX



Member Since: 10 Nov 2016
Location: Mendip Hills
Posts: 190

United Kingdom 2000 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Coniston Green
davew wrote:
If you consider your cable run to be safe then you are never doing anything more with the Anderson than you would with a traditional jump start cable which you would never consider having a fuse inline with. You do, hopefully, take extra care though when handling and one of the disadvantages of the Anderson for this purpose is the inability to connect one cable at a time.


That was my thinking. The issue with connecting to the Anderson is solved a little as I will keep croc clips at one end of the jump leads. Though I may just fit an isolator just in case some numpty touches the leads together or they are the wrong way around and I can't pull the Anderson quick enough, thinking emergency stop button.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162064834595

I have a fuse for the run I have from the spare battery to under the bonnet but that is because it is 2.5m of wire and the risk of it shorting is higher than a <0.5m length of wire. 25mm2 to reduce drop and it may end up as an access point if I need to power a compressor etc. 
Post #620916 1st May 2017 9:50pm
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