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Lancerdoc999



Member Since: 10 Apr 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 205

United Kingdom 
rear crossmember question
Hi all, I'm in the process of sorting out my chassis. The rear crossmember mounting rail that attaches via 4 bolts on to the top of the crossmember, and has the five vertical double hole plates that then attach to the rear of the body, is corroding and needs removal or replacement.

It looks too fiddly to try and remove the bolts holding it on so planning to cut them off if I can. Getting the plate out them will also be a fiddle without trying to cut it up. Any other ideas?

Is it essential to have this mounting rail as I've seen more modern defenders don't seem to have it at all and the 10 bolts in the lower rear body just seem to fill the holes. Would it be easier to weld 5 small plates on to the back of the crossmember instead as this seems to how many replacement brackets are provided.

Thanks for advice
Post #620080 28th Apr 2017 8:09am
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mk1collector



Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

England 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Bonatti Grey
I think later models still have the rail but it's on the inside of the rear panel. Ray
My build thread
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html
Post #620084 28th Apr 2017 8:22am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16809

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
As mk1collector says the bracket moved inside the body on later models.

In the early days (Series etc) there were five plates welded on the rear face of the crossmember to hold the body. Later in production, though I am not sure exactly when, this changed to the long angle bracket bolted to the top. I suspect that this was done to facilitate the accomodation of the infamous Landrover body tolerances, where two notionally identical vehicles can differe in length by 20mm or more.

The later version (single long bracket) gives far more scope for catastrophic differential metal corrosion that the early version (five individual brackets)!

I don't see any reason why you shouldn't weld tabs on the rear face of the crossmember, it will do the job just as well and make your Defender that little bit more unique.
Post #620085 28th Apr 2017 8:29am
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discomog



Member Since: 09 May 2015
Location: Notts/Lincs Border
Posts: 2494

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
Here's a photo of my 1998 Tdi300 which I sold to a friend some years ago. He's recently fitted a new galv chassis and as you can see it has the external tabs. I seem to recall it had the internal rail but the memory cells are not as good as they were. I do think the tabs look good though, so I'd say weld some tabs on the cross member.



Click image to enlarge
 Defender 90XS SW
Mini Countryman Cooper S
Morgan Plus 8
Post #620139 28th Apr 2017 11:28am
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Lancerdoc999



Member Since: 10 Apr 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 205

United Kingdom 
Thanks for replies. I thinking welding the tabs on is the way forward. I will cut the tabs off the existing bracket and clean them up and get them welded on. Gets rid of the corroding plate inside and can tidy the top of the cross member also. Will also allow crud to perhaps not build up as much.
Post #620153 28th Apr 2017 1:03pm
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derbywill



Member Since: 25 Mar 2010
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 539

England 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Java Black
Following! My bracket on the crossmember is rusting too, would like to know if it's possible to remove and paint it without taking the body off! I guess the fuel tank has to be dropped down.

Cheers

Will 2005 90 XS
1954 86'' Series 1 tilt
Post #620183 28th Apr 2017 4:09pm
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Lancerdoc999



Member Since: 10 Apr 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 205

United Kingdom 
My plan is to use a metal cutting saw to cut the top of the 4 bolts off that hold the plate on. Remove the 10 bolts to the rear panels. Then using a thin metal blade try and cut the long panel in half so can slide out. Thats the theory anyway! I'm going to then cut off the 5 brackets, clean them up, stop any rust and paint. I'll get them welded on by a local car restorer who will be doing all my welding work. Will try and document as I go.
Post #620209 28th Apr 2017 5:20pm
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