 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > MAF & MAP Torque for fixings |
 
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19578  
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Had a closer look, found the MAP fixings which are 3 Nm.
MAF is on there, but no mention of torque. I assume that means to say common sense fitting, I.e. Not over tightened but enough. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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6th Apr 2017 1:00pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16879 
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Not critical, use common sense.
Few people would have a small enough torque wrench anyway. |
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6th Apr 2017 1:51pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19578
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Seems that way.
 Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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6th Apr 2017 2:11pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19578
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Well I got both removed today, the MAF was a little dirty but not too bad. (Still needed cleaning!)
The MAPT however, is and was absolutely junked. I think it needs replacing to be honest! I've cleaned both now, so hopefully all should be good for now but I think I will replace the MAP shortly. Probably best to remove and clean the manifold also if I replace the MAP.  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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7th Apr 2017 12:21pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16879
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Is your EGR disabled? I think you need a catch can on your breather!
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7th Apr 2017 3:21pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19578
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It is indeed blanked.
On google image search it seems quite common for them to be contaminated this much. Many even worse. Mind you, I have never cleaned it until now so could well be original from new! I never knew much about it in the past. Once again the WSM was invaluable. They both cleaned up nicely, dried perfectly clean placed on a piece of paper for a few hours and I've since refitted. Tested, all is good idle seems smoother and the drive is better. It may have been these two that was aiding the erratic idle I've had as it has since gone. The over rev / rev hang has also gone but I suspect that is the bridged clutch switch mod I made the other day. All in all, much much better and back to normal. The MAF was much cleaner than the MAP but still needed cleaning. Very pleased. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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7th Apr 2017 3:41pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19578
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A few photos:
MAF Sensor and printed P/N's: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge MAP inc electrical connector: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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7th Apr 2017 3:53pm |
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| Leviathan Member Since: 24 Oct 2015 Location: Staffs Posts: 247
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Any chance of an idiots guide on what to do with what please Steve? With pictures of were these things are
It looks like something I should be involved with on mine. |
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7th Apr 2017 4:01pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19578
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Will see what I can do later.
They are easily accessible to get at, I've used Holts Brake cleaner. It'll loosen deposits and blow them away with pressure and completely dry as its solvent. It's best though imo to leave them out to dry in a clean place for a few hours to be safe. They also must be disconnected from the electrical system plugs first. Don't touch the element or electrical plates and wires, simply use the cleaners pressure to blow away the rubbish. I did this twice, first time to loosen the deposits and give it a chance to work and a second blow though ten mins later. With the MAF I blew it though in the flow direction as marked on it, as airflow direction would be in use. This is the location of the MAF (not my photo, used as guide reference only). Click image to enlarge As you can see, the airflow directional arrow must be observed when refitting. This is located on top of the air box housing to the left front of the engine bay. The electrical connector red tab needs be pulled up, then you can press below it as it will remove. The red tab is like a safety mech, so it doesn't accidentally come loose or get pressed. There are then the two T20 Torx screws to remove, refitting is the revers of removal. Tightening wise on these, just use common sense so tightened enough but not too much. The MAP: Click image to enlarge This is located to the RHS of the engine block on the manifold, easily seen as this photo shows. It has one fixing, subject to a Torque tightening figure of 3Nm. Cleaning much the same as the MAF. The electrical connector is more basic, remove in much the same way as an Econoseal connector. Just push tab down and release. WSM page ref MAP: Click image to enlarge The following applies to both MAF & MAP sensor: I cleaned everything I could before removing anything with a clean lint free terry towl cloth to avoid contamination. Once removed I blanked the holes with electrical tape. On the MAPT / MAP the WSM suggests replacing the 'O' ring seal, personally I see no merits in doing this if it looks in good condition and is not perished. Mine looked good, so reused. If it gets to a state that bad imo the whole thing may as well be replaced anyway. I may do this at a later date... I cannot remember the size of the fixing for the MAP. However, you should be able to use a smaller Torque wrench with reducing adaptor on it. This is what I did with no issue at all. Hope this helps, some may do it slightly different but this I should what I have done. The Clutch Switch thing is a different thing all together, I may put that up in another's thread. This also seems to work well in my opinion. Quite happy now!
Hope that helps. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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7th Apr 2017 4:59pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19578
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Apologies for the long posts here.
Howver, just out of curiosity and as I have the pics of the P/N's on both the MAF and MAP it allows me the chance to do something further investigation. (I haven't looked up the MAF yet). There is a Bosch P/N on there on the MAP which I can tell from the Logo, and also a Ford P/N as well. Looking up these P/N's on eBay, they correspond to the same item for only around 40 ish! As mine has 'Made in Germany' on it, I'm pretty sure it's made by Bosch but corresponds to FOMCO's P/N too. I'd be inclined to follow the Bosch P/N myself personally. Now, I haven't looked all that's deeply into this yet but will do tonight or over the next few days. I wonder what LR's list price will be for the same part?  
Time to find out I think for both. 
***EDIT*** PM'd Dan @ Duckworth Parts for a quote of price and Genuine P/N's for both sensors. This will be interesting.... Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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7th Apr 2017 5:17pm |
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| Leviathan Member Since: 24 Oct 2015 Location: Staffs Posts: 247
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Thats great thank you.
I have some carb cleaner, do you think that will be ok to use? |
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7th Apr 2017 6:49pm |
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| ian series 1 Member Since: 17 Nov 2014 Location: south Posts: 3127 
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Steve, MAP sensor from Ford are under 30 i can't remember from the top of my head as I didn't pay too much attention to the invoice, I had a pair for a Transit this week, MAF are slightly more but under 50.
Dread to think what JLR charge for the same part?? 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"
Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered. |
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7th Apr 2017 7:35pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19578
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Leviathan - It should be. But if you wanted to get what I had it's only about 8 or so on eBay or where ever.
You can get stuff just for MAF cleaning but it's much the same. Ian - IIRC last time I checked the MAF was around 120 from JLR. 
Will wait to hear from Dan, I'm guessing ball park that figure for each!
Been on a longer trip tonight, power fully restored! Goes like stink again. All my issues I did have were related to the clutch switch, MAF and MAP. Power lag gone, slight shunt of changing gear gone. Minor hesitation and rev hang, slight over rev occasionally on gear changes gone. Fuel consumption had dropped off slightly. And no extra ECM revs applied when engaging low range 1st either. Gear changes are more crisp, and no shunt from ECM revs applied immediately after gears engaged. Although I've cleaned mine with good results for the price I'll change for new soon as they are getting on for ten years old now. But cleaning has definitely done the trick, and something I will do again. LR don't do it with servicing at all. 
All this has cost me is a few quid for some clutch switch connectors and a can of brake cleaner.  Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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7th Apr 2017 8:14pm |
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| ian series 1 Member Since: 17 Nov 2014 Location: south Posts: 3127
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Nice one
120..... Now that's a serious mark up! I must say I've never asked the price from LR, that's probably why 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"
Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered. |
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7th Apr 2017 8:27pm |
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