 | Home > Td5 > Rear wheel hubs |
 
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| 4RF RDS Member Since: 19 Jul 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 898   
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First be sure to get a shop manual, Hanes or Land Rover genuine. I use genuine... see below for answers to the rest.
Is this a simple enough task to replace the bearings/seals? Very simple (parts readily available) How long would it take me if I was a complete idiot? Both sides about two hours for a ranked amateur DIYer. LOL Is there a preferred brand for replacement bearings/seals/kit? Timken or genuine, don't scrimp on bearings Do I need any specialist tools? Yes hub nut socket, its a really big nut and if you keep th hub nut set up as genuine a torque wrench to set the nut properly. Am I likely to end up replacing other things at the same time? Possibly but not usually Did I read somewhere that it’s best to do both wheels at the same time? Yes usually best to do that. Or at least check clean and repack with new grease. Have fun, good luck.  Click image to enlarge 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris) 2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam) 2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX) 1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy) 1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood) 1967 MGB GT Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats. H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956) |
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23rd Mar 2017 6:26pm |
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| stigomery Member Since: 10 May 2016 Location: Cambridge Posts: 277  
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You're a saint sir... many thanks.
I have a Haynes manual and will order a couple of Timkin kits tonight... that's my weekend sorted out. Cheers, Stig |
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23rd Mar 2017 9:55pm |
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| grafty99 Member Since: 15 Aug 2012 Location: North Devon Posts: 4784 
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I believe Timkin bearings are used from the factory
 2002 90 Td5 Station Wagon
1990 Vogue SE Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200 Td5 90 Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic50767.html Tdi 110 Thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic69562.html RRC Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic54492.html Instagram http://www.instagram.com/george_grafton |
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23rd Mar 2017 10:45pm |
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| Lionel Member Since: 12 Aug 2008 Location: Melbourne Posts: 59 
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It seems that you have a TD5 model, so you will probably have the later type of bearing arrangement, whereby there is a selectable spacer between the inner & outer bearings to set the preload, rather than the earlier adjustable locknut setup. When you get it apart you may find that the seals are all that needs to be replaced & that you can re-use the bearings. That makes it simple in that you can clean, repack & then reassemble the hubs using the same spacers & a new 52mm staked nut. (Don't mix any components up!). If you do replace the bearings you will be well advised to junk the spacers & revert to the earlier double locknut & tab setup, which is easier to work with for the home mechanic. Conversion kits are readily available. BTW, I recommend a proper 52mm impact socket for the hubs, rather than a box spanner. Both types are readily available. Undoing the staked nut with the later bearing setup can be a challenge. It Is ****ing tight! Good luck with the work - it is pretty simple really. Cheers, Lionel |
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23rd Mar 2017 11:48pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324 
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IMHO, I'd factor in more than 2 hours, but that's just me.
As for other things to replace while you're in there, obviously flange gasket - hrrrm, stake nuts if you're that way inclined (or change to the two nut system) - I'd also order the seal that goes on the stub axle (#7 in the eng drawing below), it does a reasonably important job, and removing and reinstalling could damage it and lead to water ingress. Also be prepared for seized bolts to shear. 52mm is the socket size, needs to be deep enough. Lots of info in the various WSMs found online (aside from the stake nut/two nut system nothing much has changed), discussion in the forums about how to do avoid torque wrenches, DTIs and so on, aaaand: heh heh - the memories !  Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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24th Mar 2017 5:46am |
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| stigomery Member Since: 10 May 2016 Location: Cambridge Posts: 277
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"Also be prepared for seized bolts to shear."
Don't say that... last time I undertook a simple maintenance task that's exactly what happened, SS bolts sheered off in an ally gearbox casing on an old outboard motor, all I needed to do was change the impeller (a Ł10 part) and rendered the entire engine a financial write off... |
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24th Mar 2017 10:32am |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
if you have 2004 TD5 it will fitted (stack nut) and spares,(this is pre load system) unless it has bean mod with the two nut system Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge 24 shod read Move HUB assembly in and out noting dial gage reading 
land rover defender TD5 1999/2006 MY workshop manual publication number defender LRL0410BB ISBN 13:9781855206977 Last edited by dorsetsmith on 24th Mar 2017 8:34pm. Edited 5 times in total |
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24th Mar 2017 10:47am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 7683 
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the caliper bolts can prove a challenge too.
suggest buy two rear oil seals incase one is damaged. use the old bearing outer to drift in the rear seal and then new bearing outers. Cheers James 110 XS Utility 130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making) 90 Puma Hardtop |
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24th Mar 2017 12:25pm |
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| rustandoil Member Since: 08 Sep 2012 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 664  
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If the bearings are OK and you wish to re-use, the main problem will be keeping dirt out of the bearings while you prise out and re-fit the seal...
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24th Mar 2017 1:11pm |
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| stigomery Member Since: 10 May 2016 Location: Cambridge Posts: 277
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I've bought 2 full kits so going to do the lot... praying I don't end up with siezed bolts...
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24th Mar 2017 1:21pm |
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| rustandoil Member Since: 08 Sep 2012 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 664
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Are you swapping to the two nut system of bearing retention? I rather like the spacer arrangement..
As mentioned the caliper bolts will probably be a bitch as they will probably have lots of threadlock on them 
Let us know how you get on, pictures are always good |
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24th Mar 2017 1:26pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16874 
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The back face of an old drive flange is also good for this. |
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24th Mar 2017 2:48pm |
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| Lionel Member Since: 12 Aug 2008 Location: Melbourne Posts: 59
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The spacer arrangement is fine if you're re-using bearings, but the original spacers may not be appropriate for the new bearings. Logic says that bearing tolerances should be tight enough to be able to use the same spacers, but I know a couple of people who've run into trouble. It then becomes a nuisance having to measure & order the correct spacers to set the new bearings correctly. (& they are not cheap!) Really, if bearing, or in particular, hub replacement is required, the two nut & tab system is a lot easier to deal with if you are doing the job yourself at home. Lets face it, the spacer system was developed for no other reason than to make factory assembly easier & faster. Cheers, Lionel |
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24th Mar 2017 11:29pm |
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