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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4350

United Kingdom 
Oh no that's no good mate Big Cry Big Cry silver lining is A1 head from now on Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Turner are a good company used them a couple of times.

You going to hone your cylinders, mod the exhaust manifold or anything else whilst the head is off?
Post #613376 30th Mar 2017 7:41pm
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CDN38



Member Since: 14 Nov 2014
Location: Courtenay, BC
Posts: 729

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 SW Bonatti Grey
I'm considering de-webbing the exhaust manifold. Looking into upgraded manifold bolts, just starting to search around for information on them. Anyone with info, please feel free to chime in.

In regards to the de-webbing, I know some have completely removed the webbing between the ports, some have just made a relief cut in the webbing between ports. Anyone have any experience? Pass it along....

Oh, I do have a stage 1 Alive chipped ECU I am wanting to install, figured there's no point until the new head is on. it's a Landrover thing...

my renovation thread:
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html
Post #613926 2nd Apr 2017 6:05am
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CDN38



Member Since: 14 Nov 2014
Location: Courtenay, BC
Posts: 729

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 SW Bonatti Grey
OK... found it!! Head gasket failure, front of #1.



Click image to enlarge
 it's a Landrover thing...

my renovation thread:
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html
Post #614595 5th Apr 2017 4:25am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4350

United Kingdom 
I still think I am going to have to replace the head on Miffy (not he funky white rabbit) as I am getting over pressurising still post installation of a new water pump. Before going there though I have to replace the threaded core/drain plug as it is possible that it might be the cause, letting air in to the system. Possible I guess.

If it makes you feel any better CDN38 I will also have to whip off the exhaust manifold again. LR really should have installed a quick release mechanism for this manifold, would make our lives much easier.
Post #614607 5th Apr 2017 6:03am
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MadTom



Member Since: 10 Sep 2013
Location: Olomouc
Posts: 556

Czech Republic 1999 Defender 130 Td5 HCPU Baltic Blue
Also check all hose clamps for possible leak. I have repaired coolant loos on 2 TD5 (Def and Disco2) last week - both had problems with original spring type hose clamps. They were not enough tight, there was a slight leak, and the coolant evaporated on the hot engine. No drops on the ground.
I had to pressurize the whole system up to approx. 1 Bar, to find all leaks. For pressurizing I used the small hose between expansion bottle and cooler. I had also found bad cap on one expansion bottle - it was opening at 0,3 Bar, instead of 1,4Bar. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "BlufĂ­nek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo Smile
Post #614611 5th Apr 2017 6:20am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4350

United Kingdom 
Funny you mention that I have just replaced a couple just last weekend! Cap replaced at the same time. Ach the joys of owning an aging vehicle...!
Post #614629 5th Apr 2017 7:37am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4350

United Kingdom 
Well just picked up this little beauty...


Click image to enlarge


Figure it should work with the LRs VDO sender unit... give it a go... a little mid week modding this evening I feel. Thumbs Up Thumbs Up
Post #614631 5th Apr 2017 7:40am
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bifterx



Member Since: 29 Nov 2014
Location: North Wiltshire
Posts: 33

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Oslo Blue
I may have also been sucked into this sad tale.
Top hose burst/split a couple weeks ago, replaced it with silicone jobby. snapped the expansion tank plastic pipe in the process so swapped new in for that as well. Im now getting leaks/drips from (as far as I can see ) the bottom of the rad at either side when system is pressurised.
not sure if the rad should look like this ....

Click image to enlarge


all bendy at the bottom.

this is either a series of unfortunate coincidences or something darker!

I had a new head and gasket etc done in august last year as it was cracked.
its a 4A VIN so guessing it would have had steel dowels anyway?
Temp gauge is always left of centre when up to temp and has been since I've had the vehicle so no change.
No blow offs from exp chamber, just the usual hiss on engine stop.

I was sort of in denial re HGF 7 or 8 months after new head but now rethinking.
Also yesterday took for a run and had power loss /hiccup for a fraction of a second on dual carriageway doing about 55-60 before resuming but no flicker in the temp gauge. Disco 300TDi XS - Gone
Disco 3 SE manual - Gone 😭
Freelander 2 SE manual
Defender 110 TD5 DC
Post #616000 11th Apr 2017 10:38am
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bifterx



Member Since: 29 Nov 2014
Location: North Wiltshire
Posts: 33

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Oslo Blue
oh yeah!

deffo new rad then.

http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic50978.html

um, anyone got any tips loosening the viscous fan nut? cant move the Censored

still, coincidence re top hose and rad in the same 2 weeks. Disco 300TDi XS - Gone
Disco 3 SE manual - Gone 😭
Freelander 2 SE manual
Defender 110 TD5 DC
Post #616009 11th Apr 2017 10:57am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4350

United Kingdom 
Crikey Bifterx Shocked How the heck did your rad do that?!

Have you replaced your water pump recently? Apparently when long in the tooth these can sieze when hot causeing over-pressurization of the coolant system.

I replaced mine last month along with the PAS pump as the dog gear was well worn, indicating something not running true.

Also check that damned coolant drain plug under the exhaust manifold.

4A VIN should be metal dowels, plud if your head was replaced last august it should of had them replaced at the same time.

Viscous fan nut. Have you the correct spanners? are you turning the nut the right way? TD5s have a normal right hand thread.
Post #616018 11th Apr 2017 11:18am
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2520

Scotland 
geobloke wrote:
Well just picked up this little beauty...


Click image to enlarge


Figure it should work with the LRs VDO sender unit... give it a go... a little mid week modding this evening I feel. Thumbs Up Thumbs Up


Do you have a source for the gauge? Or a VDO part number?

Looks a good match for the standard Td5 gauge set in terms of appearance.
Post #616026 11th Apr 2017 11:47am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4350

United Kingdom 
My thought exactly Retro...

Part numer 310.284/8/3 12v and photos;



Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge
Post #616037 11th Apr 2017 12:44pm
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bifterx



Member Since: 29 Nov 2014
Location: North Wiltshire
Posts: 33

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Oslo Blue
So new rad- not really digging the moulded look.

I saw your thing on the water pump - my PAS pump is due for a replacement as its got a slight leak in the castin, it scraped through MOT cos it is slight so its on my list for things to do may as well do WP at the same time, I dont think its an expensive part.

yeah got the right spanner although this is the first time I've used it in anger - just cant seem to get enough leverage. Sad

coolant plug all good.

cheers
rob Disco 300TDi XS - Gone
Disco 3 SE manual - Gone 😭
Freelander 2 SE manual
Defender 110 TD5 DC
Post #616051 11th Apr 2017 1:31pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4350

United Kingdom 
Two bits of scaff pole on the end and gently does it.
Post #616055 11th Apr 2017 1:41pm
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Balvaig



Member Since: 19 Feb 2016
Location: Fife
Posts: 719

Scotland 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 Landmark LE Corris Grey
Buy the best water pump you can afford. There are some pretty rubbishy ones out there which are cheap, but don't last two minutes.
Post #616066 11th Apr 2017 2:43pm
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