 | Home > Technical > steering wheel sitting off centre |
 
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| V8GPC Member Since: 18 Jul 2016 Location: Manchester Posts: 289  
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You can either remove the steering wheel and move it by a spline (if its an after market wheel - it may not be put back correctly - or if its been off in the past) OR to fine tune a small amount adjsut the drag link - with the wheels straight.
The steering box adjustment won't recentre the wheel - it will only take up some free play in the box. You can check this by asking someone to move the wheel while looking at the drop arm for movement. However most free play may be down to warn ball joints and the drop arm ball joint. The drag link and track rod end ball joints are really straight forward, with a ball joint splitter (cheap tool to find), the drag link can be a bit more tricky; but against not too difficult. I'd check those first for free play before adjusting the wheel, drag link or steering box. If you do a search on here there are plenty of other threads that provide assistance; and plenty of info on google; with some videos that help. |
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3rd Jul 2017 7:01am |
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| wyvern Member Since: 14 Dec 2009 Location: Cornwall Posts: 2068 
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if its a new to you defender then its probably that the steering wheel has been taken of and put back on at a slight angle at some time.
Take off the wheel after marking the position of the wheel and the spline with a permeant marker then pop it back on and see if its better - it may take 2 or 3 goes to get it perfect ..but not too hard to do (Getting the wheel off is a different matter though !  ) Poppy - TDCI (Puma) 110XS 2.2 - Camper conversion - see the build here - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic56530.html
Elgar -TDCI(Puma) 110XS Dormobile - now sold Devon & Cornwall 4x4 Response - DC126  |
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3rd Jul 2017 7:57am |
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| sat13 Member Since: 06 Jun 2010 Location: Cheshire Posts: 70 
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Hi all,
Procta I had the very same problem, my steering wheel was out by a degree or so. If I moved it round on the splines it would be out the opposite way. I think it was always slightly out but since I changed the steering wheel for a smaller diameter one it seemed more noticeable. To cure this I adjusted the drag link a small amount and each time rechecked the wheel till it was straight. I think it took about half a turn on the drag link rod to get it spot on. If you loosen the two clamps ether end of the rod and turn the bar it’s a right hand thread on one side and left hand on the other so as you turn it shortens or lengthens the bar. You will have to try each way till you see you are moving the steering wheel the right way. You may be able to see the thread on the bar and determine which is the right or left hand one so you will know if you are shortening or lengthening the bar. Mine was right hand on passenger side left hand on driver’s side. Hopes this helps. Regards to all Fletch. |
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3rd Jul 2017 12:30pm |
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| davew Member Since: 02 Jan 2012 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 888  
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Don't bother with a ball joint splitter, it's not the correct way to free the tapers on a Defender. If you look at the "female" part of the joint you'll see a large flat pad on the side of the casting. Undo the nut, give that pad a sharp tap with a hammer and the tapered joint will release. A bal joint splitter will make the job longer, harder and will probably damage the seal in the process. http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/ |
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3rd Jul 2017 1:41pm |
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| davew Member Since: 02 Jan 2012 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 888
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There are a few different adjustments you can make. The adjuster at the top of the steering box takes out end float on the main shaft and can reduce slop in the steering box. You need to be careful though as it's not uniform across the steering range so you need to make sure you check it across the full range of the steering. Essentially it adjusts the amount of movement in the steering wheel before the wheels start to move. You always get some movement but it shouldn't be excessive. It's only a small part of the steering box adjustment though and won't normally straighten your steering. The drag link (the arm between the steering box and your nearside front wheel) is adjustable, as others have said, and that has a direct impact on steering position, in fact that's why it is adjustable. Release the clamps and rotate it one way to extend it and the other to retract it. I normally drive the vehicle down a straight bit of smooth, quiet, road so that the wheels are pointing straight ahead and then adjust the drag link until the steering wheel is straight. Then fine tune after a road test or two. The tracking bar can also have an effect on steering position due to the "odd" steering geometry of the Defender/Range Rover/Discovery where the steering operates only on one wheel and the tracking bar then moves the opposite wheel. This means that the steering can be used to compensate for bad tracking by entering it out. It's best to get the tracking checked after visually checking the bars are straight and not bent. If you have somewhere local that can fit their laser tracking equipment too your vehicle they can adjust tracking and steering all at the same time. A lot of tyre places do struggle with the tyres/wheels on Defenders when it comes to fitting the equipment. You can create your own "home laser tracking" setup using a piece of wire and a bungee cord which makes the whole operation MUCH easier assuming you haven't got a huge lift which has upset the front axle position. http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/ |
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3rd Jul 2017 1:57pm |
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| Procta Member Since: 04 Dec 2016 Location: Sunderland Posts: 4932
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Thanks dave, we did check a few things when I bought it and found that I did have a knackered ball joint, It was very dangerous when over taking and even at high speed
 Again I don't know how that passed the mot last year.
With the wheels dead straight, what way would adjust to get the steering wheel centre again? its about 45 degrees or something to the right, I did watch a video that I have to remove the bar and spin the wheel to the left two turns to centre the steering box up then wind in the bar or something. Defender TD5 90 ---/--- Peugeot 306 HDI hatch back Success is 90% Inspiration and 4 minutes Preparation # you can make it! |
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4th Jul 2017 8:15pm |
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| tuesdayfox Member Since: 23 Jun 2013 Location: Sydney,OZ Posts: 129 
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I would say go adjust the drag link.
I had the same problem and I firstly try adjusting the steering wheel. Annoyingly the perfect straight position is between two splines on my steering wheel... So I proceed to adjust the drag link. You do not need to touch any ball joint, should you adjust the drag link. But bear in mind that the factory drag link is a piece of shxx. The thread always seized up In my case it seized up good so I upgrade the drag link and track rod as well... If yours is not seized up you can just turn the drag link clockwise to extend it's length or the other way. And remember to keep the engine running so you have power steering Easy 30min job So my |
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6th Oct 2017 6:39am |
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| DieselBeast Member Since: 27 Sep 2017 Location: UK Posts: 33 
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I can see there's a lot of advice here already, but here's my 50 pence worth.
Centralise the wheels (steering wheel will be off center) and make an imaginary line in the top of the steering wheel. Turn a full lock left and make a note of how many turns it took. Then repeat from center to full lock right. If it's even then the steering system is fine and you can get away with just taking the steering wheel off and resetting it central. If it's not even then you need to look at linkage to steering box, drop arm, drag link or trackrod. |
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9th Oct 2017 9:03pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16857 
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^^ Not really reliable since the lockstops may be maladjusted leading to a false centre.
If you want to find the true centre, fit the centralising bolt to the steering box and check the steering wheel is straight, refit if not. Then remove the bolt and see if the vehicle drives straight If it doesn't, adjust the drag link so that it does. Then check you have the same number of turns to full lock in each directio, and adjust the lockstops if not. Then enjoy perfect steering!  |
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9th Oct 2017 10:33pm |
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| Gurmot Member Since: 01 Apr 2016 Location: Somerset Posts: 36
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An interesting post for me as I have just fitted a new standard LR wheel as mine was damaged. I noticed a keyed notch in the back of the wheel and a corresponding slot in the top of the mounting so I didn’t mark the position before swapping. I was surprised to find the new wheel off centre after I fitted it.
I am now wondering it is still possible to be one spline out, or if they all need adjusting from new. |
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12th Oct 2017 5:19pm |
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