 | Home > Td5 > Rear drive flanges |
 
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4392  
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It is pretty much as you have written it. The other things worth checking whilst you are there are brake pads and wheel bearing wear.
the manuals are pretty good for the method of doing this job, but I will add that the drive flange bolts need to be thread locked, torqued down correctly and to make getting your alloy wheels back on make sure the flat surface of the bolts are aligned with the outer curve of the flange, the corners of the bolts stick out enough to impact the alloy wheel and can damage it when replacing the wheel. |
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5th Mar 2017 11:03am |
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| 4RF RDS Member Since: 19 Jul 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 898  
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Once the flange starts to wear and is let alone, and not addressed early, it can cause the axle to wear as well. Both the outer splines and inner at the diff. Pull them and check them.
 Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris) 2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam) 2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX) 1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy) 1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood) 1967 MGB GT Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats. H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956) |
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5th Mar 2017 2:49pm |
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| RoddyK05 Member Since: 08 Apr 2015 Location: Inverclyde Posts: 633  
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Thanks lads, exactly what I was after. Will get the bits ordered tomorrow and hopefully will have a couple less clunks by the end of the week
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5th Mar 2017 3:03pm |
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| 4RF RDS Member Since: 19 Jul 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 898
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Parts web sites.
http://www.allbrit.de/NAV.cfm?PAGE=356171&SPRACHE=EN http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1228 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris) 2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam) 2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX) 1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy) 1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood) 1967 MGB GT Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats. H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956) |
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5th Mar 2017 3:09pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769  
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I reassemble with some grease when I put mine back together, and it may be prudent to buy in a few flange bolts just Incase as sometimes they can snap. Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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5th Mar 2017 3:09pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324 
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Interesting re. the bolt edges on alloys! But isn't aligning them to avoid that and torqueing them correctly mutually exclusive? Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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5th Mar 2017 9:04pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16857 
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They'll only foul your alloys if you have 30mm spacers fitted. No spacers, no problem.
You can avoid future issues if you don't use threadlocker on them but use an old-school flat spring washer instead. Correctly torqued they won't come loose. Also it's cheaper to use M10 socket head cap bolts (what are often incorrectly called Allen bolts) since (a) these are the correct 10.9 grade, (b) they're cheaper than 10.9 hex bolts (especially ones in LR packets), and (c) you won't have any head clearance issues with any wheel or spacer. |
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6th Mar 2017 12:39am |
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| defender9 Member Since: 12 Mar 2016 Location: Fylde Coast Posts: 1613 
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Is drive flange gasket FRC 3988 suitable for Puma 2.2 2015 model year?
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6th Mar 2017 6:45pm |
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| roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039  
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For the rear there are also one piece driveshafts with the flanges together. One thing less that develops play. Roel
1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
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6th Mar 2017 7:00pm |
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| Disco_Mikey Member Since: 16 Nov 2014 Location: Dundee Posts: 531 
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Just ordered a set of them for mine today
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6th Mar 2017 8:56pm |
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| RoddyK05 Member Since: 08 Apr 2015 Location: Inverclyde Posts: 633
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Got the new drive flanges and shocker bushes fitted today. In the end up I put it into my local garage as I need the car for a wee distance run at the weekend and I was running out of time and daylight to do it myself. What an amazing difference. I had thought that the A frame ball joint was away too as I was getting quite a clunk changing gear, but no, it's back to normal with the new drive flanges. Coupled with the new shocker bushes it feels very civilised again.
I had a look at one of the old flanges, the wear was very bad on one, almost stripped of splines so I think I was very lucky with this. I might even keep a spare set of flanges in my spares box so I can do it again without delay when it wears next time. Also as it's due it's MOT next month I got them to give it a once over incase there was anything needing done prior to that, but it got a clean bill of health. I will keep in mind the one piece half shaft/drive flange items that Disco Mikey has said he stocks in another posting, I'll see how long the drive flanges last and make a call on it then. |
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9th Mar 2017 10:37pm |
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| defender9 Member Since: 12 Mar 2016 Location: Fylde Coast Posts: 1613
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Are the rear drive flanges failing prematurely? I had my 07 Puma 110 for 8 years and never had a problem with them, ok it was mainly road use with only light towing. Are the later ones performing worse than previous ones? I have a 2.2 Puma which again is road use and light towing only. I have looked at the various heavy duty drive flanges on offer from the likes of Ashcroft, Bearmach and others, but reluctant to spend a couple of hundred pounds on something that I am unlikely to need. I intend to lubricate the ones I have on at the moment as it seems a sensible thing to do reading various posts.
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21st Mar 2017 1:21pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16857
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My 07 DC suffered the first rear drive flange failure (original factory-fit halfshafts) at about 60k miles, the second (genuine Landrover halfshafts and flanges) at aound 110k miles, after which I fitted Ashcroft HD shafts and flanges along with an ATB in the rear. The vehicle is now at just over 206k miles, and there is quite a lot of slop in the flanges.
Next time I will fit the current-spec one-piece shafts. It is (touch wood) still on the original output adaptor shaft, and when I fitted the last new clutch at 150k miles this was in better condition and a better fit than the brand new replacement parts I bought just in case! Last edited by blackwolf on 11th Sep 2017 9:17am. Edited 1 time in total |
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21st Mar 2017 1:59pm |
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| defender9 Member Since: 12 Mar 2016 Location: Fylde Coast Posts: 1613
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Thanks Blackwolf that's very useful information. I think I will stick with the original factory drive flanges for now and see how they go.
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21st Mar 2017 2:24pm |
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