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CDN38



Member Since: 14 Nov 2014
Location: Courtenay, BC
Posts: 729

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 SW Bonatti Grey
Heating issue Td5
Ok..so I am geting to the end of coming up with a cause and or solution....

MY 2000 Td5 110

Symptom:

I have heat while driving at highway speeds after a moment or two. Every time I stop, or am in stop and go traffic, it takes about 30 seconds, and the heater blows cold. Further investigation, bottom rad hose is cold, bottom half of rad is cold. Top of the rad and top hose is hot.

First... really? Thinking thermostat, but it's only 2 years old. installed new thermostat. No change Shocked

Flushed heater core, it's clear and fine.

Hmmm... circulation problem? Water pump? Install new water pump. No change. (old one was a little crusty. A little resistance on the shaft, not bad though).

Hmmm... could there be blockage in the rad? Doubt it. Coolant is clear when drained. No debris. Radiator does work... but let's eliminate the possibility. New radiator... Still, no change. Big Cry

So... anyone run into this before? it's a Landrover thing...

my renovation thread:
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html
Post #605949 2nd Mar 2017 2:02am
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
How about a seized viscous fan unit meaning it's being driven all of the time? Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #605971 2nd Mar 2017 8:02am
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roel



Member Since: 08 Aug 2009
Location: Lelystad
Posts: 2039

Netherlands 2003 Defender 90 Td5 PU Caledonian Blue
A thermostat will reduce coolant flow to the rad when the coolant gets colder so the viscous fan is not the problem I think.

The heating off my 90 is just enough for The Netherlands if I am dressed well. Twisted Evil


Click image to enlarge


So it might not be enough for Canada.

I also noticed that my coolant temp can drop to 60 deg if my 90 is stationary for a while and the heating is on. My thermostat and viscous fan are OK. It is just because the heating system pulls more heat out off the system then a td5 will produce when idling.
The only think I can think off is that you might have air in the heating unit. Roel

1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001)
1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009)
2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts.
2003 90 Td5 (2009-now)
Post #605994 2nd Mar 2017 9:13am
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4RF RDS



Member Since: 19 Jul 2015
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 890

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Epsom Green
Okay so this seems weird to some however to me it does not. Shocked It also sounds like you have already done just about everythng that it could be if you had a problem. For what its worth... I live in Ottawa a heck of lot colder than just about anywhere in BC (-15 today). If I drive my 2000 Td5 in this waether (which I do) it'll warm up at highway speeds and stay warm blowing hot air in this temp. When I slow down she cools down very fast and the temp gauge will drop to blue within minutes.

At this point (when the needle starts to drop) I just touch the Webasto button and she stays warm till I get going faster again then I turn it off. I have never checked the rad nor hoses as I had similar performance from my 300 Tdi. On that motor I just used a radiator blanket mad it sorted the issue promptly. Wink I do not use a rad blanket on this one as it has the Webasto.

So all this to say I think its probably normal... Thumbs Up 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam)
2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX)
1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy)
1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood)
1967 MGB GT

Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.
H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956)
Post #606070 2nd Mar 2017 2:29pm
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mk1collector



Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

England 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Bonatti Grey
Are you sure there isn't an airlock somewhere? Also I've read lots of posts with people taking the viscous fan off permanently which I probably wouldn't do in this country but with those temperatures you'll probably be fine, the td5 is over cooled anyway. With the fan off the rad won't cool as quick. Ray
My build thread
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html
Post #606088 2nd Mar 2017 3:52pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

air lock
Post #606090 2nd Mar 2017 4:02pm
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CDN38



Member Since: 14 Nov 2014
Location: Courtenay, BC
Posts: 729

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 SW Bonatti Grey
I was thinking it may have been air block, back towards the beginning, but at constant speed (say 2000rpm) the heat comes back, every time.

Have had coolant in and out 3x now, and bled the system of air each time. I the more times i empty and re-fill, the less chance I think there could be an air pocket each and every time. it's a Landrover thing...

my renovation thread:
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html
Post #606097 2nd Mar 2017 4:44pm
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mk1collector



Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

England 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Bonatti Grey
Water can trickle past an air lock and give you heat again as the pump feeds the heater matrix. Try parking up an incline facing up hill and running the engine upto temperature with the header cap off also as the engine is running try squeezing the water pipes to try and force any air through. When you think it's bled open the bleed nipples to let any extra air out. Ray
My build thread
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html
Post #606164 2nd Mar 2017 7:57pm
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grafty99



Member Since: 15 Aug 2012
Location: North Devon
Posts: 4784

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Caledonian Blue
I run without a fan all year round and it's no problem at all (including towing) so I'd imagine you would be fine without a fan in temperatures that low Thumbs Up 2002 90 Td5 Station Wagon
1990 Vogue SE
Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200
Td5 90 Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic50767.html
Tdi 110 Thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic69562.html
RRC Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic54492.html
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Post #606182 2nd Mar 2017 8:33pm
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Gillan



Member Since: 01 Apr 2016
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 35

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Alaska White
Hi I am having the same problem with my 03my heater was tepid but when I bled the top hose loads of air came out and heater restored to normal, could it not be a blocked rad?
Post #606185 2nd Mar 2017 8:35pm
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CDN38



Member Since: 14 Nov 2014
Location: Courtenay, BC
Posts: 729

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 SW Bonatti Grey
No time to get to it today Sad .

The rad and water pump were brand new installed yesterday, so that's no the issue. Viscous fan is in good order.

Temperatures here in Vancouver are above freezing, occasionally just below, sort of on par with a London winter. It's definitely not that it's being over cooled, the block is at normal operating temp, there's just no flow of hot coolant at low RPM. Usually that would be the water pump, or thermostat, or clogged rad. All 3 are brand new... Rolling Eyes it's a Landrover thing...

my renovation thread:
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html
Post #606291 3rd Mar 2017 5:54am
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mk1collector



Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

England 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Bonatti Grey
I'd say it must be an airlock then Ray
My build thread
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html
Post #606375 3rd Mar 2017 11:41am
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jrule



Member Since: 10 Aug 2015
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 302

United Kingdom 2000 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Oslo Blue
why dont you try a rad cover to see if the engine temp warming up helps.
Post #606388 3rd Mar 2017 12:20pm
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Mash



Member Since: 09 Feb 2015
Location: Guernsey
Posts: 1674

Guernsey 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Nato Green
Air lock does seem most likely, the best way to bleed is engine running, heaters of max speed/heat, loosen the jubilee clip for the heater matrix input, sometimes a small flat blade needs to be inserted down the pipe to "crack" it allowing the air to escape, once its warm ensure your heaters are piping hot and you should be good. Most just use the two bleed points rad/thermostat housing (might be a pipe bleed point on td5), but the best way I have found is the above as it's the highest point in the system. 90 wolf - Jasmin http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic39408.html
90 V8 - Maggie http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic42564.html
110 TD5 - Buggsy http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic59029.html
52HG25 lightweight https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72342.html
D3 Hse - Fiona
Capri 2l S - Anna

Think I might have a problem............
Post #606390 3rd Mar 2017 12:26pm
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4RF RDS



Member Since: 19 Jul 2015
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 890

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Epsom Green
CND 38, D'you sort it yet? 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam)
2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX)
1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy)
1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood)
1967 MGB GT

Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.
H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956)
Post #606689 4th Mar 2017 4:51pm
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