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Peter Td4



Member Since: 23 Oct 2010
Location: Antwerp, Belgium
Posts: 227

Belgium 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HCPU Santorini Black
Installation of a Webasto cabin heater in a 110 SW
The following is a description on how I fitted a Webasto 2000 ST cabine heater to my 110 Td5 Station Wagon Defender.
This Defender is currently undergoing modifications for it to be used as a basic camper.
From now on it will always be comfortably warm in this Td5 Laughing.

The Eberspächer Airtronic D2 was considered as a possible alternative, with the interesting feature that the power consumption on the lowest heating position is much lower.
The Webasto on the other hand provides continuous variable fan speed, so can be adjusted as needed.
Although very similar both products have a number of small difference.

Before making my final choice I’ve spoken to a number of local dealers and this contributed to my preference of the Webasto kit.
The experiences that will be gathered in the future will proof if this was a good choice Wink.

So far I’m pretty impressed by the quality of the materials supplied. All items are build to a very high standard.
The manual leaves some questions open but after all this kind of installation is not complicated so all went well.

The heater as supplied out of the box:


Initially I played with the idea to mount the Webasto under the left rear wing, as there is a lot of space in that corner.
This however would require the construction of a sealed compartiment.
Because of the added complexity and limited access for service purposes I opted to mount the heater under the rear seats, close to the rear left passenger door.

The first step, after measuring 5 times to make sure all would fit Laughing, was to remove the carpets and put the drilling template in place.
The Webasto cannot be placed on sufaces uneven by more than 1 mm, so this should be considered.


Another requirement is the mounting of the heater well above the wading line.
The location that I selected provides a 300 mm margin over the 500 mm specified by Land Rover.
(with standard tires and suspension Wink ).

To make the two big holes I used a step dril. Nice round holes are made effortless.


Once all holes are drilled and the heater fitted in place it looks like this from the underside:


Note that the fuel line is already (temporarily) connected in this picture.

I placed the little fuel pump on the righthand inside of the chassis.
Like this it is well protected from splashing water and (most) dirt.
I used existing holes and stainless hardware.


Once the connection to the tank was in place I’ve filled the entire fuel line with diesel.
For this purpose I used a small homemade 12V pulse generator.
Two benefits from this:
- I was certain that the fuel lines and pump were in good working order.
- The Webasto heater started at the first attempt. Note that multiple failed starts will lead to a software “fail” which needs to be restored by a certified Webasto dealer. Something I definitely wanted to avoid from happening.

The installation is further completed by fitting the air inlet and exhaust hoses.
Also the waterproof connectors are mounted here.
All these materials are supplied with the standard Webasto kit.


The heater control is mounted on the front side of the cubby box.


All electric wiring is tucked away behind the plastic panels around the rear door (advantage of a Station Wagon Laughing ).
The pilar next to the left front seat is used to guide the cables down into the battery box.

Click image to enlarge


On this picture one can easily see both cables. One cable needs to be extended up to the heater control knob inside the cubby box, the other one goes to the battery via a new fuse box.
All these connections are soldered and fitted with crimp sleeves.

Note the additional ground distribution block that I’ve installed here.

Click image to enlarge


In order to nicely route the cables from the battery box to the cubby box I made a couple of holes in the aluminium plate and finished them with pieces of flexible grommet strip.


I’ve made 4 holes so that I can fit additional 12 V wiring (e.g. for a small DC-AC converter that will sit on the rear of the cubby box).
Also the wires to the cruise-control buttons fitted on the cubby box will pass here.
All cables are fitted inside protective sleeves as used by Land-Rover also.

When all is finished the heater looks like this:

The control and power cables to the Webasto enter the housing near the top side but Webasto provides the possibility to choose at which side one wants to route the cables.
So I installed these at the rear side to get maximum protection.

It is clear that there still is sufficient space between the heater and the underside of the rear seat.
This is required to prevent the heater from running too hot.

The hot-air outlet, near the left side of the picture, will possibly be extended a bit by a piece of tubing followed by a Y-piece to better direct the heat to the front and rear.
I still need to test this Wink. Peter,

Defender 110 StaWa - Td5
Defender 110 HCPU - Puma
Defender 90 Soft Top - Td5
Post #54708 23rd Jan 2011 8:28pm
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kingofthesparks



Member Since: 06 Jan 2011
Location: Very close to Watford gap services , northants
Posts: 987

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Fuji White
Love the post, but how the hell can you find a surfeace on a land rover thats not more than 1mm uneven, or was this a missprint and it should have said 10mm Rolling with laughter Rolling with laughter Rolling with laughter
Post #54713 23rd Jan 2011 8:40pm
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Peter Td4



Member Since: 23 Oct 2010
Location: Antwerp, Belgium
Posts: 227

Belgium 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HCPU Santorini Black
Not a misprint, the installation manual actually says 1mm Wink.
Now as long as you don't install the heater over two panels this should not really be a problem.

As you can see in the second picture the base of the heater sits very near to such an overlap.
Hence the warning Laughing Peter,

Defender 110 StaWa - Td5
Defender 110 HCPU - Puma
Defender 90 Soft Top - Td5
Post #54729 23rd Jan 2011 10:53pm
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BigRuss



Member Since: 15 May 2010
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 2785

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
I like the ground bar you've installed. I take it the big cable at the bottom goes the the earth cable of the battery? Thumbs Up Russell
2011MY 110 XS USW Black
Post #54757 24th Jan 2011 6:52am
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alantd



Member Since: 14 Dec 2008
Location: Northamptonshire
Posts: 1513

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Tonga Green
I thought that was a neat solution too Thumbs Up One that started out as a 2.4 TDCi 110 XS
+ New Defender 110 First Edition
Post #54759 24th Jan 2011 6:58am
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Mike_B



Member Since: 23 Jan 2011
Location: Moray
Posts: 550

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Java Black
did you buy the ground bar, or make it? looks neat, wouldn't mind one of those in my battery box - its all getting a bit messy!
Post #55949 31st Jan 2011 9:08pm
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cobs



Member Since: 12 Jun 2008
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 336

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Cairns Blue
Do you have any details of the homemade pulse generator you made
Post #55950 31st Jan 2011 9:25pm
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Peter Td4



Member Since: 23 Oct 2010
Location: Antwerp, Belgium
Posts: 227

Belgium 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HCPU Santorini Black
Mike_B wrote:
did you buy the ground bar, or make it? looks neat, wouldn't mind one of those in my battery box - its all getting a bit messy!
Made it myself, just a piece of 10mm thick aluminium and a row of M5 and M6 tapped holes.
The mounting / grounding bolts are M8.
All hardware is stainless steel Wink.

cobs wrote:
Do you have any details of the homemade pulse generator you made
Yep Wink.
It's basically an assymetrical pulse coming from an NE555 timer IC followed by a power transistor.
Time permitting I'll scan the schematic and post it here. Peter,

Defender 110 StaWa - Td5
Defender 110 HCPU - Puma
Defender 90 Soft Top - Td5
Post #55960 31st Jan 2011 10:17pm
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