 | Home > My Defender > Penman camping trailer |
 
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| Mdm Member Since: 11 Sep 2013 Location: Sunny Lancashire Posts: 1523  
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jockey wheel is a 3500 one you can get spares from bradley or buy a new one
easiest way on the electrics to use a patch lead or buy the adaptor or you need to rewire the lot. have fun with the build |
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1st Aug 2020 6:22pm |
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| v8bob Member Since: 14 Mar 2018 Location: Midlands Posts: 304 
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If you can get access to a press, that would be better for straightening the jockey wheel. You can choose exactly where to apply the pressure and have better control how far to bend.
You can just change the nato plug for a standard plug if you think it may ever need to go back to original. You may need to find the right plug to get the thick cable into, may need to modify it a bit. Have fun. |
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1st Aug 2020 8:00pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1741
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Hi keith5, in the end what solution did you go with regarding the electrics ? I’m in a similar position with a newly acquired penman. And I’m also thinking on using leds, just need to understand the best ones to use.
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20th Oct 2020 1:32am |
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| Keith5 Member Since: 27 May 2016 Location: Scotland Posts: 352 
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Ian,
I've ended up making/running a whole new set of wiring in current colours for the trailer re-using the conduit and route that was there for the military installation. I looked at the potting compound and decided against trying to pick it all out so bought new cable to do the complete rewire. Once I started to strip it out I realised that the potting compound came out easier than I expected, however by that time I had already bought the new 13pin plug and cable and the cable for the rest of the trailer so decided just to go with plan A. I've also taken the opportunity to underseal the whole frame while I have the wiring loom out and before I get the new body installed (currently waiting on a slot with the fabrication co). I have a batch of 12v bulbs to go into the Peiri holders that are part of the original install. If budget allows I'll probably change them to Wipac NAS units which will mount on the existing plinths. All depends on how much the new trailer body and doors costs. Keith |
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20th Oct 2020 2:09pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1741
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Many thanks Keith. I will have a look at the junction box and potting compound. Checking prices that stuff is expensive to replace ! It may be better to just do as you did and create a new loom.
I will likely use bilt hamber dynax ub wax on the underside as I have a spare 750ml spray can. The GS cargo I have came straight out of store, never been used and In great condition so should be an easy job to apply the wax. Like you will start with std 12v bulbs on existing fittings. Given the limited use they will likely last years ! I’ve also purchase one of these. https://foundry4x4.co.uk/index.php?route=p...uct_id=352 . Designed for mounting larger diameter wheel/ tyre combinations it raises the wheel by 2 inches so hopefully will allow me to mount and use the pintile at max height on my Dixon bate adjustable tow bar without removing the spare wheel. It may also help those with pintiles directly connected to the crossmember who also have a rear mounted wheel. Will reduce view through rear screen but that’s minimal already. Once fitted I will post my findings. |
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20th Oct 2020 7:50pm |
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| Vitesse Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Sussex Posts: 372 
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Nice project. Good luck with it. I got one back in July. Best thing I bought for ages 👍 2015 90 XS Santorini Black
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20th Oct 2020 9:26pm |
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| Keith5 Member Since: 27 May 2016 Location: Scotland Posts: 352
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Ian,
I havent worked out how I'm going to get around the spare wheel and pintle issue yet. Ideally I want to leave the nato hitch on the cross member and I already have a mantec wheel carrier for the spare. I did look at the Safari equip carrier to replace the mantec but cant justify the costs. Current thinking is to include a mount for the spare wheel on the new trailer body and just move the spare onto the trailer when we're using the trailer. Keith |
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21st Oct 2020 7:20am |
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| camelman Member Since: 27 Feb 2013 Location: Peak District Posts: 3320
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I'm running 35inch tyres with the NATO hook attached straight to the cross member.
As above, using a foundry4x4 replacement wheel carrier https://foundry4x4.co.uk/index.php?route=p...uct_id=352 The Sankey fits on OK, sometimes easier to undo the jaw slightly with the door open.  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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21st Oct 2020 7:58am |
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| Matt110 Member Since: 29 Jun 2014 Location: UK Posts: 673
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Camelman - even with the door spare wheel adaptor..... shouldn't the sankey sit nose down?
What did you do to make it sit level? Looks great like that. |
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21st Oct 2020 10:16am |
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| camelman Member Since: 27 Feb 2013 Location: Peak District Posts: 3320
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As the Nato is mounted directly onto the rear cross member and I have a 2inch lift and 35 inch tyres, its effectively 4 inches higher than standard at the back. Hence the trailer nose is flat.
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21st Oct 2020 10:17am |
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| Badger110 Member Since: 06 Feb 2018 Location: South hams Posts: 1025 
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If you run the same tyres on the truck as the sankey it will sit level with a hitch mounted to the cross member, it’s how they were designed. The internet’s theory that sankey’ s need to be nose down is utter  . Years of driving them in the army, they were always level with a crossmember mounted hitch.
Civilian hitch’s are much much lower, even with an adapter, they will sit nose down. To get it level, mount your hitch to the cross member |
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21st Oct 2020 4:57pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1741
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The 7.50 R16 tyres on a penman at 31.7 inch diameter are more or less the same size as a 235/85 r16 at 31.7 inches ( defender std tyre size) or a 265/75 R16 at 31.6 inches. So I will be pleasantly surprised if the penman is level when coupled to a nato pintile bolted to defender crossmember. I will find out at the weekend.
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21st Oct 2020 6:52pm |
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| Matt110 Member Since: 29 Jun 2014 Location: UK Posts: 673
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What's confused me is that camelmans truck with the same wheels as the trailer (thus you discount the wheels in determining the attitude of the trailer) is level, with "only" a 2" lift on the vehicle. I had always thought the difference in nose height to generate a level trailer with the same wheels on vehicle and trailer would be much greater than 2".
Badgers comment really interesting, as I'm sure i've only ever seen particularly a penman.... nose down? Anyone got a photo of one level behind something? It's what I was planning to generate.... but was assuming i'd need to cut the A frame even if i used the hitch at cross member height. That's good news   |
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21st Oct 2020 7:31pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16858 
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I was surprised at Badger's comment (though he does specifically say Sankey, not Penman) since I have never seen a military Landrover with a level Penman trailer, they are all nose-down. They used to be very nose-down with the TUL, and they are slightly nose-down with the TUM.
Remember that the TUM has taller rear springs than civvy vehicles and therefore the hitch is higher, but even so the trailer is nose down. Some photos of a TUM with a Penman (scroll through the pics): https://www.neneoverland.co.uk/listings/la...o-trailer/ Another photo of a TUM with a Penman: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/680184349952312777/ |
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21st Oct 2020 8:54pm |
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