 | Home > Technical > question re: upgraded Ashcroft HD halfshafts |
 
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 7682  
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when you do fit my advice is to lightly lubricate the cao mating surface around the o ring area and to grease the gasket both sides. Cheers
James 110 XS Utility 130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making) 90 Puma Hardtop |
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21st Jul 2018 6:40am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19531 
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Thank-you for the advice, much appreciate that.
I was thinking of using Lithium grease for the splined end of the halfshafts to flange. The same grease as I used for the prop shaft UJ's this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Castrol-400G-Hi...2749.l2649 I know the area you mean on the caps of the flanges, the threads and mating surfaces between the two in the O ring area. Wouldn't a little copper grease be best for this one as it's anti seize based? The gasket sides is a good idea, Lithium should be fine for that as it's just for a better seal isn't it's only a thin smear. Just waiting on a few bits and pieces to do the front, the rear will have to wait just for a bit until I can get the due to cost. I would imagine the halfshafts should be fully axle oil lubricated before going in too. Having never done it before advice is always welcome regardless of how easy or simple the job is.  Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~ I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧 Last edited by custom90 on 21st Jul 2018 6:27pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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21st Jul 2018 12:22pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 7682
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Don't fit Ashcroft axle to shaft oil seal, this allows some axle oil to lubricate splines and it wont come out the end with their dm caps.
Copperslip, or any grease gun grease on dm cap and o ring. Vaseline also works well on gaskets, just rub it all over both sides, wipe away surplus. Means gasket will come off easily if taken apart again, plus you can prob then reuse gasket. Cheers James 110 XS Utility 130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making) 90 Puma Hardtop |
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21st Jul 2018 1:20pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19531
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I did read the info regarding the axle to shaft seal on the rear.
I notice they mentioned the rear but not the front, is there a reason for this? I've got a hex bit set coming and oil drain pan suitable. (Needed anyway.) I just need it find out what axle oil D44 used on the rear to change the front as it could do with doing and replacing anyway really. Think it's Fuchs 75/90w but may as well find out the exact type. Once I've got the oil, I can then try and get the front done at least and the rear will have to wait a bit until I can sort out buying th shafts. Seeing as both need replacing on the back both the shafts and the flanges there's is little to save. Hopefully not too long though. I'm curious as to the spline lubrication debate between oil seal removal and greasing instead. I was intending to do the latter as I can see little difference in it, especially if only the rear is oil lubricated and the front greased. I was told the flanges and splines were very dry, so it seems like some 'fretting' had gone on. Here was me assuming servicing took care of that! Unless some water got in. This is on top of the Pro UJ issues I had, so can only but imagine the various issues went hand in hand and started going together. As Blackwolf mentions it seems, when all is well with the Puma driveline it is but can be fairly fragile if issues develop. I also can't understand why the rear diff pinion oil seal keeps going, it has done so there or four times over the last few years. Again, always the rear drive axle and no issues at the front. Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~ I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧 |
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21st Jul 2018 6:39pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19531
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I cracked on with this tonight, I got one done on the front but got beaten to carrying on by it getting dark so will need to be tomorrow to finish the other side.
Took it very easy undoing the bolts, slow and square on and they were fine. I used a 1/2" ratchet to 3/8" reducer with a I think it was a 3/8" 17mm socket New bolts went in a dream with the spring washers to 65NM. Again using my 1/2" torque wrench as above but with 3/8" to 8mm hex drive bit Greased the splines and on the flange inc both sides of the gasket. There is much less play there now, far less. There was indeed some 'fretting' rusty rubbish etc and I fully cleaned it all as best I can before fitting everything. The fit is absolutely excellent! Only thing I found was when removing there was a thick and thin shim, the thicker one tapered and the thinner one not so. When fitting I could only get the single thick tapered shim (correct way around of course.) to fit and the circlip. With the thinner shim as well the circlip would not go on and this was with the shaft pulled as tightly though as possible. With the thick shim and the circlip though is a perfect fit and a tight fit so as far as im concerned it's a good fit. Also greased the cap threads and O ring, I can indeed see the beneifit of fitting a grease nipple to the cap but that's a job for another day. The original flanges and splines were pretty much dry, but okay on the shaft splines but flange very worn. When it comes to the rear when I change the halfshafts as well, will they just come out with the flange removed or is there other things to remove? Having never done it before it's all new to me, but this was a pleasure of a job to do so far.
One last thing, I haven't this time due to not having a huge amount of grease to spare so I don't run out. (I've got enough to do the splines properly though.) But shall I pretty much pack the whole cap with grease? I'd have thought that should stop moisture condensation etc setting in there. At least that's an easy job to go back to, now the splines are thoroughly greased with the Castrol HT Lithium. Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~ I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧 |
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27th Jul 2018 9:59pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19531
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Forgot to add a pic I took,
 Click image to enlarge as you can see they needed doing: Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~ I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧 |
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27th Jul 2018 10:32pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16857 
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At the rear you can just pull out the flange complete with halfshaft.
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27th Jul 2018 10:44pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19531
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Oh good, just the front has more components then.
(Thank-you.)
I must say it's a much nicer job than replacing the UJ's! Very nice quality and fit with the Ashcroft units, hopefully buy the halfshafts in a couple of weeks. They must be much better for keeping the crud out too. Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~ I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧 |
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27th Jul 2018 11:23pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19531
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Finished the front axle today, I may change the oil later but no rush.
I'm pretty sure the axle drain + filler plug are a compression seal, they don't need any sealing agent do they? If so, I better leave alone until I get some. (I can't seem to find any WSM infor on it for some reason!) All done: Click image to enlarge Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~ I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧 Last edited by custom90 on 28th Jul 2018 11:16pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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28th Jul 2018 5:52pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240 
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Axle drain (and filler) plugs are tapered thread. If you buy new ones, they do tend to come with a sealing agent embedded in the threads. If re-using existing, then a bit of PTFE tape is a good substitute.
I tend to replace mine with magnetic ones, which is a very cheap little mod: Click image to enlarge Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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28th Jul 2018 8:50pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16857
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They're a BSPT thread, full form, and seal on the threads. They shouldn't need any help sealing and I've never used any on mine. However a few turns of PTFE won't do any harm.
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28th Jul 2018 9:14pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19531
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Excellent, have a little PTFE tape hanging around anyway.
Goes to show how useful it is to be prepared, may or may not use the PTFE tape yet I've not made my mind up.
Probably think about a mag one possibly one day. Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~ I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧 |
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28th Jul 2018 11:16pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19531
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Also, I didn't do the oil today the weather was a bit windy! I know I don't need to do it but I may as well as the rear was replaced a couple of weeks ago.
Went out tonight and the drive is much improved just with the front flanges done. When the rear halfshafts and flanges are done as well it should be perfect. (Hopefully soon.) Surprising how wear and tear like this creeps up and you hardly realise it over a period of time until you completely replace parts. Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~ I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧 |
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28th Jul 2018 11:32pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6264  
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Click image to enlarge I fitted these the other night - no spacers fitted and svx wheels fitted no problem |
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29th Jul 2018 9:04am |
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