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keith



Member Since: 15 Aug 2012
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 2152

Scotland 
Just picked up on this topic and I'm totally confused by what all the worry is about .
I replace the fuel filter every 5000 miles along with oil filter . This is my service intervals and whether you do short ones or not the fuel filter is the more important of the two . So that makes 13 filters as I'm now on 65000 miles . Simply screw off , refill new filter with fuel and screw on . No airlock, no bleeding ,no problems .
It is of upmost importance to use Genuine filters ( always )
Keith
Post #647340 31st Aug 2017 8:21am
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Marks Landy



Member Since: 09 Feb 2015
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 296

United Kingdom 1985 Defender 90 200 Tdi SW Java Black
Try that when the diesel is frozen in the filter and the engine won't start....

New filter and bleed the fuel system is the only option.
Post #647343 31st Aug 2017 8:30am
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MartinK



Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2663

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
Or maybe if you have a fuel leak, or run to a dry tank... for a few £ a home made bleed tool is a good investment IMHO...

It also makes the filter change quite easy... saves slopping around with a can of diesel... Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)
Post #647345 31st Aug 2017 8:51am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16809

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I extended my tank breather (essential on an '07 anyway since the original terminates behind the NSR wheel where it ingests crud and moisture) up to the rear buck, behind the NSR light protector panel. If I need to bleed the system I simply blow down the breather and slightly pressurise the tank. Althernatively I can pop a Schrader valve in the end of the breather pipe and use a tyre pump.

Marks Landy wrote:
Try that when the diesel is frozen in the filter and the engine won't start....

New filter and bleed the fuel system is the only option.


I don't understand why you think in this case that a new filter, prefilled with diesel, won't work just as well. You still wouldn't need to bleed. Anyway, my first approach in this case would actually be to warm the filter to dewax the fuel.
Post #647350 31st Aug 2017 9:00am
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Marks Landy



Member Since: 09 Feb 2015
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 296

United Kingdom 1985 Defender 90 200 Tdi SW Java Black
Heating the filter was my first option as mentioned on the below thread.

http://www.defender2.net/forum/post600188.html#600188

Topping up replacement filter with warm fuel still didn't help.
The engine wouldn't fire up until it was bled.

I don't fancy playing the same games again this winter, hence why I am making my own bleed tooling.
Post #647359 31st Aug 2017 9:51am
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MartinK



Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2663

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
I appreciate that people have their own favourite method, whether prefilling the filter, or pressurizing the tank... Especially when the formal LR tool is so expensive.

However if you can easily make a low-cost tool to do the job, it's simple, quick, and less messy (IMHO) to use a bleed tool. It also eradicates the possibility of dirt getting in by having unfiltered diesel in the new filter when it's installed...

After all...the bleeding method is the correct method as defined by the workshop manual...

I am happy with my £20 tool. I can also carry it around under the passenger seat if it's needed whilst I am travelling (like if I run out of fuel).

Each to their own I guess... the wonderful diversity and experience on this forum Thumbs Up Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)
Post #647365 31st Aug 2017 10:13am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16809

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Marks Landy wrote:
Heating the filter was my first option as mentioned on the below thread.

http://www.defender2.net/forum/post600188.html#600188

Topping up replacement filter with warm fuel still didn't help.
The engine wouldn't fire up until it was bled.

I don't fancy playing the same games again this winter, hence why I am making my own bleed tooling.


Interesting, and useful real-life experience. Thanks. Thumbs Up
Post #647379 31st Aug 2017 11:35am
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expatRob



Member Since: 24 Feb 2015
Location: Frankfurt
Posts: 58

Germany 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Tonga Green
Great workaround Martin. WOrked for me today.
Post #648284 4th Sep 2017 6:07pm
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tuesdayfox



Member Since: 23 Jun 2013
Location: Sydney,OZ
Posts: 129

2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Zambezi Silver
The 2.2 has a lift pump.
So no bleeding required for the 2.2?
Cheers
Post #648951 8th Sep 2017 8:02am
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TopQ1967



Member Since: 14 Feb 2012
Location: Veghel
Posts: 226

Netherlands 2012 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 HCPU Buckingham Blue
Correct 2.2 no need to bleed
Post #649009 8th Sep 2017 3:27pm
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Marks Landy



Member Since: 09 Feb 2015
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 296

United Kingdom 1985 Defender 90 200 Tdi SW Java Black
I turned down fitting P/N LR019009 so it fits inside the fuel supply coupling.
Its a fraction to thin so won't seal, back to the drawing board..

Has anyone got the correct male end fitting P/N?

The fuel supply tube to the pump is P/N LR031351, but I cannot find the "Male" end fitting on its own.
Post #649668 11th Sep 2017 8:00pm
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MartinK



Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2663

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
Mark - been digging - have a look at LR006249 or LR016979 and see what you think?

I don't speak much French at all, but https://www.forum4x4.org/archive/index.php/t-142259.html looks interesting... (he says part LR006249 includes a male and a female connector ... price around £12



shows his tool here


Click image to enlarge
 Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)
Post #649775 12th Sep 2017 9:02am
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7664

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
So from reading this am i right in thinking to change a 2.4 Fuel filter if you refill the new fitler prior to fitting no bleeding tool or bleeding is required? Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop
Post #650278 14th Sep 2017 12:50pm
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MartinK



Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2663

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
James - it seems many people manage it that way - fill the new filter with diesel, then swap them asap... They are a bayonet fit, but access is limited unless you remove the wheel

Fuel starts coming out of the lines as soon as you remove the old filter... it's a bit messy... Ideally you need to minimize any air getting into the system

I made the tool as a precaution in case I ever run out of fuel, plus TBH I think it's easier (and the pump/tool is the workshop-manual recommendation) and more reliable... If you even need to do work on the fuel tank or delivery systems this could be invaluable...

You can build your own tool for ~£20, but the LR-own tool is IIRC £180... !!! Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)


Last edited by MartinK on 18th Sep 2017 2:52pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #650279 14th Sep 2017 12:53pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7664

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
thanks Martin, that's great, i will look into making a tool i think, will read this in detail later. Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop
Post #650282 14th Sep 2017 1:03pm
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