 | Home > Td5 > Replacing front discs, Any special tools need? TD5 90 2001 |
 
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| MC84 Member Since: 23 May 2016 Location: Near Bristol Posts: 341   
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I am about to replace the front discs on my 2001 TD5 90, non ABS. Do I need any special tools, like a whacking great big socket? Mike
Hard Top 90 TD5 2001 Ford 100e 1959 www.youtube.com/mikemakesit |
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8th Dec 2016 10:39pm |
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| amondeggs Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Telford Posts: 452 
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As long as you have a 52mm hub nut socket you will be fine 👍
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8th Dec 2016 11:01pm |
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| MC84 Member Since: 23 May 2016 Location: Near Bristol Posts: 341
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Ahh, no. Ebay
Does it need to be a deep one? Thanks  Mike
Hard Top 90 TD5 2001 Ford 100e 1959 www.youtube.com/mikemakesit |
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8th Dec 2016 11:06pm |
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| MC84 Member Since: 23 May 2016 Location: Near Bristol Posts: 341
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Thanks for the info agentmulder
Mike
Hard Top 90 TD5 2001 Ford 100e 1959 www.youtube.com/mikemakesit |
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9th Dec 2016 1:02am |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443  
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12 sided ½" socket for the brake caliper fixing bolts
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9th Dec 2016 1:17am |
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| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1758 
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They're done up F.T. as well, Meant I had to go and find some 12 sided 1/2" sockets on a sunday, as I couldn't touch it with my 3/8" set!
Asuuing you have and are sticking with the same wheel bearings, you should really use a torque wrench to re-do the hub nut to the correct preload. However, the correct preload tends to put it back in the same place. Believe the lock nut is technically single use as well? |
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9th Dec 2016 1:26am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324 
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No imperial on my machine...
That being said 1/2" is dang close to 13mm. Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... Last edited by agentmulder on 9th Dec 2016 1:34am. Edited 1 time in total |
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9th Dec 2016 1:29am |
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| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1758
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1/2" Drive!
I used a metric set, can't remember what size mind. |
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9th Dec 2016 1:30am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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And yeah, stake nut (like the tab washers) should really be one use only..
Lots of info re. bearing/nut preload etc. best read the WSM Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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9th Dec 2016 1:32am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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Oh ha ha, yeah I should have figured .. Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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9th Dec 2016 1:35am |
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| Vogler Member Since: 02 Nov 2014 Location: Brussels Posts: 309  
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It's been a while since I have done it, but here's what I remember:
- 12-pointed socket 13 or 14mm, for the bolts that fix the disc on the hub (edit: obviously only one of them is the correct size, I just don't remember which one) - Some brain cells tell me a 15mm one too, but I don't remember what for - might be another job in the same whereabouts - you'll need to take the calipers off and either hang them nearby on e.g. the spring, using a tie-wrap or alike. Or you disconnect the brakeline (clamp the flexi part) but then you'll need to bleed the brakes afterwards. (how old is your brake fluid?...) The first you do by undoing the bolts of the top swivel pin and removing the bracket which holds the brakeline in place. A 17mm swivel-head, ratcheting ring spanner as this came in very handy to get under and around the steel brakeline: 
Mind that when the bolts are out, dirt can enter the constant velocity joint because they're not blind holes - so give it all a clean before you undo everything, also because you expose the rear bearing and oil seal to dirt that falls off the hub when you remove it. So you might have to clean the bearings too. Since I didn't know the car's history and the hubs were out anyway, I chose to replace the bearings and seals too and change to the older system using two flat nuts like the Tdi's, but thats another discussion. When you undo the swivel bolts at the top, the hub has play and one shot grease might leak out at the swivel ball at the rear of the hub.Try and pull the hub towards you as long as the bolts have not been put back. In a worst case scenario you'll need some one shot grease too. When replacing the discs, I also noted the brake pads were worn and a piston was stuck, so I immediately knew what to do next... Good luck, Joris Last edited by Vogler on 9th Dec 2016 4:09am. Edited 2 times in total |
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9th Dec 2016 1:50am |
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| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1758
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That's a good point, also worth repacking the bearings with fresh grease if it's not been done recently.
I may be teaching you to suck eggs, but repacking does mean repacking, not just a smear on the outside! |
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9th Dec 2016 1:52am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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^^ Vogler knows the deal
Often these jobs turn in to bigger ones once you see how close every other previously hidden part is close to needing replacement along with job #1. "ooh look at the wear on the stub axle!" "those swivel pins are a bit loose!" "ooh, pitting on the swivel housing!" "did I just ding that seal?" "wait, is that seal even the right way round??" "did I just shear off that swivel housing bolt in the axle?" "hrrrm, so ok, I need new pistons too, hrrrm, stainless, genuine or bearmach?" "why is there swarf in this grease?" "oh, so that's what was making that noise!" "do I really need three torque wrenches... really?" Never ending...   Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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9th Dec 2016 3:24am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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Just thought of another:
Appropriate size G-clamps or similar to open up your caliper pistons to accept the new discs... Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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9th Dec 2016 3:26am |
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