 | Home > Td5 > Erratic idle/Nanocom diagnostic |
 
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| Zinke Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Scunthorpe Posts: 670   
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Have you checked for oil in the red ECU plug?
Pete. |
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7th Jan 2011 5:13pm |
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| Roald Member Since: 31 Dec 2010 Location: Aarhus Posts: 31 
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Yes it looked dry from the outside. But I didnt disassemble the plug. Was unsure if I had to remove power from the battery? |
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7th Jan 2011 5:18pm |
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| Zinke Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Scunthorpe Posts: 670
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Suppose you should disconnect the battery first to be safe. Having said that i never do.
Pete. |
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7th Jan 2011 5:21pm |
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| Roald Member Since: 31 Dec 2010 Location: Aarhus Posts: 31
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I got the red plug out. At first sight, it looked dry. But a closer look with a little flashlight revealed something shiny, looking like a little clean oil. I also looked at the engine plug. This one looked like there was a little more oil in it. But still not very much.
Does it only take very little oil to affect the ECU? How about the fuelpump error? |
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7th Jan 2011 9:05pm |
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| Zinke Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Scunthorpe Posts: 670
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It can be different between each engine but oil is not a good thing and it will only get worse. Normally by the time they come to me for repair there is a lot of oil in the plug but im sure they start misbehaving with very little oil in the plug, its just people ignore it till it gets really bad.
Anyway my advice is to get the oil in the plug sorted first before you do anything else, it may not be your problem but it wont help and wont be long before it causes some problem somewhere. TD5 fixing school day 1 - If there is any problem with a TD5, no matter what it is, check the plug and make sure its clean before you do anything else. If there is oil there 9/10 times its the route of the problem. Pete. |
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7th Jan 2011 10:24pm |
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| Glynparry25 Member Since: 16 Feb 2009 Location: Miserable Midlands Posts: 3015  
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Tip 2 for the day- Best way to clean oil out of a plug is with an air duster (compressed air in a can used for cleaning keyboards etc).
Glyn  |
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7th Jan 2011 10:33pm |
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| Roald Member Since: 31 Dec 2010 Location: Aarhus Posts: 31
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Hello again
I just had a look at my log file and saw that my air flow values (MAF) is around 14-16 at idle and 40-50 when driving under 2000 RPM Isnt that a bit low, I have read that 50 at idle should be normal? |
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9th Jan 2011 9:05pm |
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| Zinke Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Scunthorpe Posts: 670
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"At hot idle, settled after 2 minutes, should read minimum 48 to 55 Kg/hr. 30 to 40 is not acceptable. Cleaning MAY help, but after cleaning and no change replace MAF. Interestingly, the reason I say rest engine at steady idle for 2 minutes is that I have observed a few engines that after a rev or two will dip below 40 for about 30 seconds or so and then back up to 50 or 60. Some may even reach 65, which is the higher end of the idle readings I have observed.
Mid throttle, (No load, in neutral, 2500 to 3250 - odd rpm) 150 to 250 depending on mapping, the higher figure for advanced performance maps is quite usual. You can spike the figures to 550+ under no load conditions with a build up to 3000rpm and then a quick rev to 4000rpm . This is a quick indication but ideally driving on the road will show AT LEAST this reading even under moderate throttle if climbing a hill with a healthy MAF output. The inability to reach 550 to 650 under any conditions is a fail. Clean and try again, if no change replace MAF." Cant remember where i copied that from now but saved it on my computer as a word doc for future reference. Pete. |
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9th Jan 2011 9:17pm |
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| Roald Member Since: 31 Dec 2010 Location: Aarhus Posts: 31
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thanks 
I have logged 15 minutes of driving, which includes accelerations to 60 mph and the MAF values is always 15-17 at idle and max 120-150. How do I clean the MAF sensor? Can I use brake cleaner? Last edited by Roald on 9th Jan 2011 10:00pm. Edited 2 times in total |
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9th Jan 2011 9:27pm |
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| Zinke Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Scunthorpe Posts: 670
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I would say with those readings that you will need a new MAF but always worth a try. Best stuff to use is electrical contact cleaner if you can get some, most car part places should stock some (the best ive found is made by loctite). If you look down it there are 2 very small coils of wire on posts that stick out from the side, its these tiny coils you need to clean. What ever you do though, dont touch the wires! If you have a K&N filter they dirty up these wire very quickly with the oil vapour coming from it.
Pete. |
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9th Jan 2011 9:57pm |
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| Roald Member Since: 31 Dec 2010 Location: Aarhus Posts: 31
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I am going to order a new one - the cleaning is just until the new one arrives. In the 'service' thread you mentioned a siemens MAF at half price than the landrover part, do you know where to buy it or have a part number?  |
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9th Jan 2011 10:02pm |
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| Zinke Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Scunthorpe Posts: 670
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Here is a pic of the MAF with the inner guard removed showing the bit that needs cleaning.
 Click image to enlarge The land rover part number is MHK100620 and is cast into the plastic of the MAF. Along with this is some other numbers which are the siemens own part number. If you take this number to your local siemens stockiest they should be able to help Although i cant remember how many we had to buy to get them cheap. If you have any problems finding one let me know and i will see what i can get for you. Pete. |
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9th Jan 2011 10:24pm |
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| Zinke Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Scunthorpe Posts: 670
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Just seen your from Denmark, as Simens is a german company you will probably find it easier to get one over there than i will here! lol
Pete. |
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9th Jan 2011 10:29pm |
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| Roald Member Since: 31 Dec 2010 Location: Aarhus Posts: 31
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Nice, thanks for the help
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9th Jan 2011 11:07pm |
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