![]() | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Bloomslang loom is it needed with Crystal headlights & B |
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VeeTee Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Somewhere Posts: 1512 ![]() ![]() |
As is written many times here, it is not the question if, but when the headlight switch will burn out. The construction of the switch is so that too much current is flowing through the contact points in the switch, these contact point become hot and the plastic part which holds the contacts will melt a bit and thus give room for loose contacts.
By upgrading with the Boomslang, Landreiziger or similar loom, the current through the switch is now only a fraction of the original current and now only needed to activate the relays. The larger current for the bulbs go through the relays. Your switch will not burn out, there will arrive more volts at the bulbs, and the light output will be much better. So, guess what my advice would be... ![]() ![]() 1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold) 1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold) 1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold) 1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold) 2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold) 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold) MySite |
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Clive Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Littleborough Posts: 467 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Just to add to the above - it's entirely irrelevant which 55W H4 bulbs you fit with the crystal headlights, extra bright or extra dim, the current consumption of the bulbs and hence power through the switch will be the same, you will still end up with (relatively) dim lights and a fair possibility of the switch failing - unless you add the external relays/loom.
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YOLO110 Member Since: 14 Feb 2015 Location: Perth Oz and Stansted UK Posts: 1648 ![]() ![]() |
Interested in this thread as well...
And the OP's question, Is the boom loom a true 'plug and play'? YOLO... You Only Live Once... |
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ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Dutch Landreiziger loom is plug 'n play. Well documented on here (do a little search), never read a bad comment about it on this forum. I have it installed for several years now, first with LEDs, later with my WIPAC Cristals again, just works great. And after 8 years, remain on my original switch.
![]() Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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YOLO110 Member Since: 14 Feb 2015 Location: Perth Oz and Stansted UK Posts: 1648 ![]() ![]() |
I think he just saw the light!
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Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
The Boomslang loom isn't hard to fit and is a suitable first electrical project.
Run some cables in, attach to battery, attach to a decent grounding point, plug old headlight socket in to control plug for relays, plug headlamps in to new sockets, away you go. You need some cable ties, an hour or two and to not mind rooting round underneath your Defender to get the wiring in. If you get in a muddle then you can always stop half way and use the old wiring until you get some help. |
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Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3854 ![]() ![]() |
Is this
https://shop.landreiziger.nl/lichtversterk...elais.html The same as this... http://www.paddockspares.com/boomslang-per...-loom.html So in theory both plug & play? Thanks |
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Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3854 ![]() ![]() |
^ JUst looked at both and the paddock spares one does suggest
" With English and Dutch manual and installation guide " So I'm thinking its the same? |
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VeeTee Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Somewhere Posts: 1512 ![]() ![]() |
^ In function they are the same, but different brands. I think Martin at Landreiziger is happy to supply an Installation Guide in English if you mail and ask him. They are both plug and play, not only in theory but also in practice.
![]() 1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold) 1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold) 1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold) 1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold) 2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold) 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold) MySite |
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Keith5 Member Since: 27 May 2016 Location: Scotland Posts: 357 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I'm quite tempted by the combination of Boomslang loom and:
Would be interested to know your thoughts once you've got the loom and Crystals fitted (if you go down that route). Would be a lot more affordable than the sealed LED headlight units and LED sidelights etc I was looking at. Keith |
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Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3854 ![]() ![]() |
^ There is so much choice...
I never thought it would be so hard to choose lights ![]() Wipac, RDX, NAS, led, crystal, plinths / without plinths..., / coloured / clear / smoked aarrgghhh I think I will order the Crystals and chance these as job one then see what I'm up to with the rest.. |
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VeeTee Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Somewhere Posts: 1512 ![]() ![]() |
I have the Clear Crystal headlights with Philips Extreme Vison bulbs (with relay loom), and RDX LED sidelights, indicators (+ RDX relay), rear/brake lights.
Very pleased with the performance. ![]() 1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold) 1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold) 1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold) 1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold) 2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold) 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold) MySite |
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Leviathan Member Since: 24 Oct 2015 Location: Staffs Posts: 248 ![]() ![]() |
Having fitted a Boomslang loom on Sunday (from Paddocks) I can confirm that it is plug and play apart from 2 things.
1. you need to pick up a 12v source. Tried the back of the alternator but far easier to mount the relays at the nearside front, at the side of the fan housing and run the supply lead along the conduit on the nearside inner wing, through the rubber grommet in the side of the battery box and bolt to the +ve battery terminal. The lead length is sized exactly for this. Then use the front inner wing bolts (left and right) for ground for the 2 headlamps. Easy. 2. the dim dip power resistor (if you have one) needs to be unplugged to get the parking lights to work on their own. This is under the drivers (RHD) front wing top inspection plate. It is hard to see but its the only connector in that area so you can do it by feel. I have wipac crystals also. I think they look better/newer apart from anything else. |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20923 ![]() ![]() |
If you route your permanent live power feed back to the battery you can then if you have spots as well nicely wire into a Blue Sea fuse box inside the battery box.
So you can have headlights on one fused terminal and spots just below it, nice and neat. As at the moment I have spots only direct battery power fed I have just a 20A inline fuse. Think I went for 2.5mm or 3mm thinwall, overkill on current draw required but reduces voltage losses at headlights or spotlights end. I'd recommend threading through convoluted tube too for protection, then fit and forget. ![]() |
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