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Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Bloomslang loom is it needed with Crystal headlights & B
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VeeTee



Member Since: 06 Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 1512

Netherlands 
As is written many times here, it is not the question if, but when the headlight switch will burn out. The construction of the switch is so that too much current is flowing through the contact points in the switch, these contact point become hot and the plastic part which holds the contacts will melt a bit and thus give room for loose contacts.

By upgrading with the Boomslang, Landreiziger or similar loom, the current through the switch is now only a fraction of the original current and now only needed to activate the relays. The larger current for the bulbs go through the relays.

Your switch will not burn out, there will arrive more volts at the bulbs, and the light output will be much better.

So, guess what my advice would be... Rolling with laughter Thumbs Up Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold)
1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold)
1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold)
1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold)
2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold)
2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold)

MySite
Post #563363 12th Sep 2016 3:50pm
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Clive



Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Littleborough
Posts: 467

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 X-Tech LE Zambezi Silver
Just to add to the above - it's entirely irrelevant which 55W H4 bulbs you fit with the crystal headlights, extra bright or extra dim, the current consumption of the bulbs and hence power through the switch will be the same, you will still end up with (relatively) dim lights and a fair possibility of the switch failing - unless you add the external relays/loom.
Post #563394 12th Sep 2016 6:12pm
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YOLO110



Member Since: 14 Feb 2015
Location: Perth Oz and Stansted UK
Posts: 1648

Australia 
Interested in this thread as well...

And the OP's question, Is the boom loom a true 'plug and play'? YOLO... You Only Live Once...
Post #563529 12th Sep 2016 11:36pm
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ericvv



Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
Dutch Landreiziger loom is plug 'n play. Well documented on here (do a little search), never read a bad comment about it on this forum. I have it installed for several years now, first with LEDs, later with my WIPAC Cristals again, just works great. And after 8 years, remain on my original switch. Thumbs Up
Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation.
http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o
https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I
https://vimeo.com/201482507
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw
Post #563535 13th Sep 2016 4:54am
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Sadi



Member Since: 23 Jul 2015
Location: Windhoek
Posts: 334

Namibia 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 Heritage Edition SW Grasmere Green
Off topic..
Eric - what type of LED did you have beforehand and what was the reason for returning to Wipac Crystals please?

Thanks.
Post #563539 13th Sep 2016 5:56am
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YOLO110



Member Since: 14 Feb 2015
Location: Perth Oz and Stansted UK
Posts: 1648

Australia 
I think he just saw the light! Laughing YOLO... You Only Live Once...
Post #563549 13th Sep 2016 7:03am
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Cupboard



Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 2971

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey
The Boomslang loom isn't hard to fit and is a suitable first electrical project.

Run some cables in, attach to battery, attach to a decent grounding point, plug old headlight socket in to control plug for relays, plug headlamps in to new sockets, away you go.
You need some cable ties, an hour or two and to not mind rooting round underneath your Defender to get the wiring in. If you get in a muddle then you can always stop half way and use the old wiring until you get some help.
Post #563568 13th Sep 2016 9:55am
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Stacey007



Member Since: 25 Sep 2015
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 3854

United Kingdom 
Post #563595 13th Sep 2016 11:57am
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Stacey007



Member Since: 25 Sep 2015
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 3854

United Kingdom 
^ JUst looked at both and the paddock spares one does suggest

" With English and Dutch manual and installation guide "

So I'm thinking its the same?
Post #563599 13th Sep 2016 12:01pm
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VeeTee



Member Since: 06 Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 1512

Netherlands 
^ In function they are the same, but different brands. I think Martin at Landreiziger is happy to supply an Installation Guide in English if you mail and ask him. They are both plug and play, not only in theory but also in practice. Thumbs Up Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold)
1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold)
1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold)
1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold)
2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold)
2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold)

MySite
Post #563632 13th Sep 2016 2:29pm
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Keith5



Member Since: 27 May 2016
Location: Scotland
Posts: 357

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Santorini Black
I'm quite tempted by the combination of Boomslang loom and:

LRI-Solutions wrote:


13pc Full LED light kit, crystal headlights, Xenon bulbs and stainless bezels-Forum: £215 (Website Price: £234, Ebay Price: £249.60)


Click image to enlarge




Would be interested to know your thoughts once you've got the loom and Crystals fitted (if you go down that route). Would be a lot more affordable than the sealed LED headlight units and LED sidelights etc I was looking at. Keith
Post #563634 13th Sep 2016 2:32pm
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Stacey007



Member Since: 25 Sep 2015
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 3854

United Kingdom 
^ There is so much choice...


I never thought it would be so hard to choose lights Smile

Wipac, RDX, NAS, led, crystal, plinths / without plinths..., / coloured / clear / smoked


aarrgghhh


I think I will order the Crystals and chance these as job one then see what I'm up to with the rest..
Post #563635 13th Sep 2016 2:59pm
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VeeTee



Member Since: 06 Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 1512

Netherlands 
I have the Clear Crystal headlights with Philips Extreme Vison bulbs (with relay loom), and RDX LED sidelights, indicators (+ RDX relay), rear/brake lights.
Very pleased with the performance. Thumbs Up Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold)
1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold)
1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold)
1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold)
2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold)
2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold)

MySite
Post #563646 13th Sep 2016 3:53pm
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Leviathan



Member Since: 24 Oct 2015
Location: Staffs
Posts: 248

United Kingdom 
Having fitted a Boomslang loom on Sunday (from Paddocks) I can confirm that it is plug and play apart from 2 things.
1. you need to pick up a 12v source. Tried the back of the alternator but far easier to mount the relays at the nearside front, at the side of the fan housing and run the supply lead along the conduit on the nearside inner wing, through the rubber grommet in the side of the battery box and bolt to the +ve battery terminal. The lead length is sized exactly for this. Then use the front inner wing bolts (left and right) for ground for the 2 headlamps. Easy.
2. the dim dip power resistor (if you have one) needs to be unplugged to get the parking lights to work on their own. This is under the drivers (RHD) front wing top inspection plate. It is hard to see but its the only connector in that area so you can do it by feel.
I have wipac crystals also. I think they look better/newer apart from anything else.
Post #563661 13th Sep 2016 5:31pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20923

United Kingdom 
If you route your permanent live power feed back to the battery you can then if you have spots as well nicely wire into a Blue Sea fuse box inside the battery box.
So you can have headlights on one fused terminal and spots just below it, nice and neat.

As at the moment I have spots only direct battery power fed I have just a 20A inline fuse.

Think I went for 2.5mm or 3mm thinwall, overkill on current draw required but reduces voltage losses at headlights or spotlights end.
I'd recommend threading through convoluted tube too for protection, then fit and forget. Thumbs Up
Post #563667 13th Sep 2016 5:58pm
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