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VeeTee

Member Since: 06 Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 1512

As is written many times here, it is not the question if, but when the headlight switch will burn out. The construction of the switch is so that too much current is flowing through the contact points in the switch, these contact point become hot and the plastic part which holds the contacts will melt a bit and thus give room for loose contacts.

By upgrading with the Boomslang, Landreiziger or similar loom, the current through the switch is now only a fraction of the original current and now only needed to activate the relays. The larger current for the bulbs go through the relays.

Your switch will not burn out, there will arrive more volts at the bulbs, and the light output will be much better.

So, guess what my advice would be...

Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold)
1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold)
1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold)
1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold)
2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold)
2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold)

MySite

12th Sep 2016 3:50pm

Clive

Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Littleborough
Posts: 467

2004 Defender 90 Td5 X-Tech LE Zambezi Silver

Just to add to the above - it's entirely irrelevant which 55W H4 bulbs you fit with the crystal headlights, extra bright or extra dim, the current consumption of the bulbs and hence power through the switch will be the same, you will still end up with (relatively) dim lights and a fair possibility of the switch failing - unless you add the external relays/loom.

12th Sep 2016 6:12pm

YOLO110

Member Since: 14 Feb 2015
Location: Perth Oz and Stansted UK
Posts: 1648

Interested in this thread as well...

And the OP's question, Is the boom loom a true 'plug and play'? YOLO... You Only Live Once...

12th Sep 2016 11:36pm

ericvv

Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816

2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black

Dutch Landreiziger loom is plug 'n play. Well documented on here (do a little search), never read a bad comment about it on this forum. I have it installed for several years now, first with LEDs, later with my WIPAC Cristals again, just works great. And after 8 years, remain on my original switch.

Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation.
http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o
https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I
https://vimeo.com/201482507
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw

13th Sep 2016 4:54am

Sadi

Member Since: 23 Jul 2015
Location: Windhoek
Posts: 334

2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 Heritage Edition SW Grasmere Green

Off topic..

Eric - what type of LED did you have beforehand and what was the reason for returning to Wipac Crystals please?

Thanks.

13th Sep 2016 5:56am

YOLO110

Member Since: 14 Feb 2015
Location: Perth Oz and Stansted UK
Posts: 1648

I think he just saw the light!

YOLO... You Only Live Once...

13th Sep 2016 7:03am

Cupboard

Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 2971

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey

The Boomslang loom isn't hard to fit and is a suitable first electrical project.

Run some cables in, attach to battery, attach to a decent grounding point, plug old headlight socket in to control plug for relays, plug headlamps in to new sockets, away you go.
You need some cable ties, an hour or two and to not mind rooting round underneath your Defender to get the wiring in. If you get in a muddle then you can always stop half way and use the old wiring until you get some help.

13th Sep 2016 9:55am

Stacey007

Member Since: 25 Sep 2015
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 3855

Is this

https://shop.landreiziger.nl/lichtversterk...elais.html

The same as this...

http://www.paddockspares.com/boomslang-per...-loom.html

So in theory both plug & play?

Thanks

13th Sep 2016 11:57am

Stacey007

Member Since: 25 Sep 2015
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 3855

^ JUst looked at both and the paddock spares one does suggest

" With English and Dutch manual and installation guide "

So I'm thinking its the same?

13th Sep 2016 12:01pm

VeeTee

Member Since: 06 Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 1512

^ In function they are the same, but different brands. I think Martin at Landreiziger is happy to supply an Installation Guide in English if you mail and ask him. They are both plug and play, not only in theory but also in practice.

13th Sep 2016 2:29pm

Keith5

Member Since: 27 May 2016
Location: Scotland
Posts: 357

2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Santorini Black

I'm quite tempted by the combination of Boomslang loom and:

LRI-Solutions wrote:

13pc Full LED light kit, crystal headlights, Xenon bulbs and stainless bezels-Forum: £215 (Website Price: £234, Ebay Price: £249.60)

Click image to enlarge

Would be interested to know your thoughts once you've got the loom and Crystals fitted (if you go down that route). Would be a lot more affordable than the sealed LED headlight units and LED sidelights etc I was looking at. Keith

13th Sep 2016 2:32pm

Stacey007

Member Since: 25 Sep 2015
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 3855

^ There is so much choice...

I never thought it would be so hard to choose lights

Wipac, RDX, NAS, led, crystal, plinths / without plinths..., / coloured / clear / smoked

aarrgghhh

I think I will order the Crystals and chance these as job one then see what I'm up to with the rest..

13th Sep 2016 2:59pm

VeeTee

Member Since: 06 Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 1512

I have the Clear Crystal headlights with Philips Extreme Vison bulbs (with relay loom), and RDX LED sidelights, indicators (+ RDX relay), rear/brake lights.
Very pleased with the performance.

13th Sep 2016 3:53pm

Leviathan

Member Since: 24 Oct 2015
Location: Staffs
Posts: 248

Having fitted a Boomslang loom on Sunday (from Paddocks) I can confirm that it is plug and play apart from 2 things.
1. you need to pick up a 12v source. Tried the back of the alternator but far easier to mount the relays at the nearside front, at the side of the fan housing and run the supply lead along the conduit on the nearside inner wing, through the rubber grommet in the side of the battery box and bolt to the +ve battery terminal. The lead length is sized exactly for this. Then use the front inner wing bolts (left and right) for ground for the 2 headlamps. Easy.
2. the dim dip power resistor (if you have one) needs to be unplugged to get the parking lights to work on their own. This is under the drivers (RHD) front wing top inspection plate. It is hard to see but its the only connector in that area so you can do it by feel.
I have wipac crystals also. I think they look better/newer apart from anything else.

13th Sep 2016 5:31pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20939

If you route your permanent live power feed back to the battery you can then if you have spots as well nicely wire into a Blue Sea fuse box inside the battery box.
So you can have headlights on one fused terminal and spots just below it, nice and neat.

As at the moment I have spots only direct battery power fed I have just a 20A inline fuse.

Think I went for 2.5mm or 3mm thinwall, overkill on current draw required but reduces voltage losses at headlights or spotlights end.
I'd recommend threading through convoluted tube too for protection, then fit and forget.

13th Sep 2016 5:58pm

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