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lightning

Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: High Peak, Derbyshire
Posts: 2247

l think l dropped a clanger

Rear diff oil seal leaking, bought a new seal and removed the propshaft to reveal a bolt on the diff flange.

Removed the bolt and out came the flange with what looked like a bearing.

Fitted the new seal, and looked up what torque the bolt should be.

Oh dear....l have a "Salisbury" axle and there's talk of crush washers, preload settings and having to remove the diff to set it up.

If only l'd looked into it before l started! I've done the seal on my 90 and did not realise it's different.

So l tightened up the nut as tight as l could with one hand on an 8" ratchet....obviously it works, but do l have to take it in to a dealer?

21st Jul 2016 8:51pm

4RF RDS

Member Since: 19 Jul 2015
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 899

2000 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Epsom Green

Unless you removed something it should be okay except for the torque setting. This might help.

Click image to enlarge 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam)
2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX)
1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy)
1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood)
1967 MGB GT

Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.
H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956)

21st Jul 2016 10:01pm

lightning

Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: High Peak, Derbyshire
Posts: 2247

It looks from that like l will have to take it in to LR specialist.

It looks fairly complex and l guess by tightening it l will have crushed the collapsible washer, but even if l manage to replace that, l'm not going to be able to set the preload.

21st Jul 2016 10:34pm

lightning

Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: High Peak, Derbyshire
Posts: 2247

I have found some information that the crush tube needs about 250lbs torque to compress, so l might be alright just tightening the nut with an ordinary ratchet which will be a lot less than that figure.

21st Jul 2016 10:46pm

diesel_jim

Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6037

With the salisbury, as long as you tighten the nut up to how it was before, then all will be OK (too late now, but it pays to mark the pinion & nut with something so you can see where to tighten it back up to)

Those crush bits take a lot of leverage to "crush", something you're not likely to ever get to with a hand ratchet, so I'd suggest that just cranking the nut up tight by hand will be fine.

22nd Jul 2016 7:08am

lightning

Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: High Peak, Derbyshire
Posts: 2247

Great thanks.

I did notice that with the nut loose there's no resistance when you turn the flange (it will turn a couple of cm with the driveshafts connected)
When you tighten the nut, it becomes stiffer to turn, but tightening the nut more does not increase the resistance.

I am guessing (looking at the diagram kindly posted above) that while not ideal, it will be OK left like that, as tight as l can get it with an ordinary ratchet.

I did mark the position of the flange on the shaft, but not the nut sadly.

Next time it goes in to the LR Specialist (which won't be far off) l'll get them to check it properly.

22nd Jul 2016 8:08am

lightning

Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: High Peak, Derbyshire
Posts: 2247

I spoke to the LR specialist.

"Just tighten it up" they said. "You will end up with the same preload as before you took it apart. You'll never crush the crushable washer any further with a normal ratchet so as long as you do it up tight, you will be OK"

So l'm going to leave it at that.

23rd Jul 2016 12:19pm

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