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trickster5000



Member Since: 12 Dec 2015
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 487

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Arles Blue
Engine out today. Went quite well, I'd done most of the prep in the evenings earlier this week so today we just had to lift it out.


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The gearbox threw a spanner in the works however. My original intention was to bolt the new engine and new gearbox together and throw them in, but the bellhousing and input shaft for the new gearbox appears to be for a disco and hence it's no good (too long). Closer inspection of my current gearbox seems to suggest it looks very new and also has the "G" suffix which I'm told is said to be the best gearbox available (better than R380 or other suffix LT77s). The puzzling bit is it doesn't feel very new/good - this may be just as they are but the synchro for 1st feels knackered and its a very whiny box. Is this normal even on a new recon LT77? Matt.

'89 90 CSW with a 3.5 V8 conversion (WIP) - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic46809.html
Post #633289 24th Jun 2017 4:47pm
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trickster5000



Member Since: 12 Dec 2015
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 487

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Arles Blue
Just had a rifle through the paperwork I have for it and found a recon gearbox and transfer box was put in less than 4,000 miles ago so it's virtually brand new. The gear selector on top though looks like it was not replaced and the turret has a lot of wear. Is there a chance that wear/damage in the gear lever mechanism could make 1st gear really difficult to find? Matt.

'89 90 CSW with a 3.5 V8 conversion (WIP) - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic46809.html
Post #633332 24th Jun 2017 7:39pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
Yeah, quite easily. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #633338 24th Jun 2017 8:15pm
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Mash



Member Since: 09 Feb 2015
Location: Guernsey
Posts: 1674

Guernsey 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Nato Green
I had one in work, a supposed class 1 mechanic diagnosed a clutch failure due to no reverse gear (still had 5 forward gears), took me 10 min to whip off the top plate rotate the damage cup and it had all gears again. 90 wolf - Jasmin http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic39408.html
90 V8 - Maggie http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic42564.html
110 TD5 - Buggsy http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic59029.html
52HG25 lightweight https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72342.html
D3 Hse - Fiona
Capri 2l S - Anna

Think I might have a problem............
Post #633350 24th Jun 2017 9:35pm
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trickster5000



Member Since: 12 Dec 2015
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 487

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Arles Blue
Thanks for that, I'll whip it off tomorrow and have a look. Matt.

'89 90 CSW with a 3.5 V8 conversion (WIP) - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic46809.html
Post #633352 24th Jun 2017 9:40pm
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Procta



Member Since: 04 Dec 2016
Location: Sunderland
Posts: 4932

United Kingdom 
looks like its gone well there! prep is always the key with such a thing, you will always run into nightmares just got to work the nightmares.
Id do the gearbox mounts too while the full lots off, if you can. saves you a job. Smile Defender TD5 90 ---/--- Peugeot 306 HDI hatch back

Success is 90% Inspiration and 4 minutes Preparation # you can make it!
Post #633359 24th Jun 2017 9:55pm
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trickster5000



Member Since: 12 Dec 2015
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 487

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Arles Blue
So mated up the gearbox and engine today among other things. Managed to fix the first gear problem by adjusting the reverse gear stopper, I may need to fiddle with it more when we take it out for a test drive but it slots in smoothly now rather than needing to be forced and clunked in.

Also swapped some bits over to my new engine such as the starter motor because I know my current one works fine and I don't fancy having to change it when the engine's in if it turns out the one on the new engine is dead.

Found a leak at the back of the transfer box weeping through into the handbrake drum so it looks like I need a new seal. I'm aware this is a notorious leak, can anyone advise me of the part number of the seal I need and any tips to stop it returning?

There is oil on the centre nut as per the pictures below. It's not a major leak but I want to sort it while I have good access.


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TIA Thumbs Up Matt.

'89 90 CSW with a 3.5 V8 conversion (WIP) - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic46809.html
Post #633467 25th Jun 2017 6:00pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2545

Scotland 
There's a seal round the flange and also a fibre washer under the big nut, the latter stops oil migrating up the splines and out at the nut.

Pictorial guide here: https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/18732-lt230...placement/

Main seal is FTC4939. Fibre washer is FRC2464.

If then flange is goosed (seal worn a groove in it) then a new flange kit with all seals etc. is STC3433.
Post #633513 25th Jun 2017 8:49pm
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trickster5000



Member Since: 12 Dec 2015
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 487

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Arles Blue
Thanks for that Retroanaconda. Sorted now I hope, found the big output shaft nut was loose so I put some silicon sealant around the nut and torqued it up.

New engine is now in, still plumbing it up so haven't started it yet.


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The union on the old power steering pipe had seized so we ended up snapping the pipe off. I have a new pipe on order but it isn't going to arrive until wed/thurs next week.

Would it be ok to start the engine without any power steering fluid flowing through the pump or is that a big no no? Matt.

'89 90 CSW with a 3.5 V8 conversion (WIP) - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic46809.html
Post #634456 29th Jun 2017 7:01pm
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trickster5000



Member Since: 12 Dec 2015
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 487

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Arles Blue
Well the pipe eventually arrived so I got the last bits and bobs finished off. Then the moment of truth... It runs! Very Happy Very Happy

Took a good bit of cranking to get it going but ticked over very smoothly after that. Thankfully no leaks or anything.

Still got a couple of things to do before we take it out for a spin - need to make up some brackets for the electric fan and bleed the clutch.

Aside from the engine, I managed to massively improve door alignment and draughts by pulling the solid rubber core out of the seal. A bit of adjustment of the striker and I can longer see daylight through the door let alone stick my fingers out so a big improvement there. The doors now shut in line with the body work and close positively.

Also have fold up side steps and raised seat rails on order from paddocks. Update when I get those fitted Thumbs Up Matt.

'89 90 CSW with a 3.5 V8 conversion (WIP) - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic46809.html
Post #636774 10th Jul 2017 6:08pm
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L110CDL



Member Since: 31 Oct 2015
Location: Devon
Posts: 10476

England 
Great news Matt that in runs Thumbs Up bet it was draughty with those doors before you sorted them out Rolling Eyes moment of truth when you can finally take her for a run to see how that engine goes Wink 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up. Keeper.


Clayton.
Post #636824 10th Jul 2017 8:48pm
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trickster5000



Member Since: 12 Dec 2015
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 487

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Arles Blue
trickster5000 wrote:
and bleed the clutch.


Never has four words caused such a headache.....

Me and my dad have just been out for an hour and a half pumping away to no avail. We used the Haynes manual technique of open bleed nipple, press clutch down, close nipple, clutch up. It has had no effect whatsoever, pedal still has no resistance and no engagement.

Anyone got any suggestions? Matt.

'89 90 CSW with a 3.5 V8 conversion (WIP) - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic46809.html
Post #636844 10th Jul 2017 9:53pm
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Procta



Member Since: 04 Dec 2016
Location: Sunderland
Posts: 4932

United Kingdom 
you want to check if the clutch system is ok, My dad has dismantled his landy practically to change the clutch, laugh is its already had a new clutch, only needed the master and slave changing over, his wouldn't bleed up properly at all, but with his clutch fetish he decided to go the full smash. Defender TD5 90 ---/--- Peugeot 306 HDI hatch back

Success is 90% Inspiration and 4 minutes Preparation # you can make it!
Post #636880 11th Jul 2017 6:09am
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grafty99



Member Since: 15 Aug 2012
Location: North Devon
Posts: 4784

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Caledonian Blue
Try bleeding it like brakes. Pump the pedal a few times, then hold the pedal down and open the nipple.

Be careful though as it will empty the reservoir very quickly! 2002 90 Td5 Station Wagon
1990 Vogue SE
Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200
Td5 90 Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic50767.html
Tdi 110 Thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic69562.html
RRC Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic54492.html
Instagram http://www.instagram.com/george_grafton
Post #636889 11th Jul 2017 7:22am
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trickster5000



Member Since: 12 Dec 2015
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 487

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Arles Blue
Well my dad has spent the best part of a day crawling around underneath whilst I pump the pedal in the cab with absolutely no effect. Clearly something was wrong as we'd tried eazibleed, reverse bleed and the conventional 2 man method. So in desperation we took the slave cylinder out to inspect and found the bleed screw was blocked... completely blocked... Banging Head
We then just had to unblock it and put it back in; easier said than done... ended up having to remove the exhaust mid section and even then it was a pain.

Anyway its all back on now and we'll bleed it tomorrow hopefully.

The morning was far more successful - managed to make up a good solid mounting for the electric fan. The pesky welder played up a bit but other than that it actually turned out better than I was hoping.

Basic design was to build a U-frame which bolts to the rad top piece and slots into little grooves at the bottom of the rad holder. Turned out to be very strong and has the benefit of being easy to remove.


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I really need to strip out the existing wiring and do it all again from scratch - whoever did the conversion spliced into the engine loom very messily and dangerously so I will get that sorted ASAP but just wired it up to see if it worked for now. Plan at some point is to wire up one of the spare dash warning lights to it so I know when the fan is on.

My goodies from Paddocks arrived - 2 days early!! Very Happy Really impressed with Paddocks delivery, took 2 days on free economy delivery.

Seat rails are in and improve the driving position hugely! Chose them over the mudstuff ones as they are adjustable from 30mm to 45mm. They are well made and do the job perfectly!


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The steps however look a lot more of a pain to fit. Passenger side is fairly straightforward, but the driver's side has the fuel tank in the way and from the looks of it they can't be fitted without dropping the tank - I may be wrong but I can't see any other way of doing it.


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 Matt.

'89 90 CSW with a 3.5 V8 conversion (WIP) - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic46809.html
Post #637009 11th Jul 2017 9:41pm
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