Home > Puma (Tdci) > Power Loss - Suspect CHT Sensor, your thoughts? |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20263 |
Check the MAF for oil contamination from one of those filters.
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3rd Jul 2016 1:27pm |
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Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971 |
Get yourself a fault code reader.
MAF and EGR system error codes are often related, EGR valve problems can trigger MAF sensor errors. The EGR valves are notoriously rubbish. The cheapest fix is to get it disabled by one of the tuning companies, or you could replace it but that costs more and the problem will return. |
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3rd Jul 2016 4:17pm |
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dgardel Member Since: 30 Nov 2008 Location: Veneto (Heart & Head) Posts: 3586 |
control also the MAP on the inlet manifold, the "black oil mud" is a heat trap and sometimes it is the problem.... Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition
IID Pro MV License |
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4th Jul 2016 9:34pm |
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arf Member Since: 02 Jul 2016 Location: North West Posts: 10 |
Thanks everyone, so far I have inspected the MAF but all appears fine, gave it a good clean anyway while I had it out.
Interesting twist is after separately topping up the coolant I had no issues for two weeks. Makes me think the power loss is the ECU going into overheat protection, and I am eyeing up an UltraGauge to confirm this... Will report back |
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19th Jul 2016 9:59pm |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20263 |
Where is your temp gauge sitting at full temp?
Mine sits ever so slightly on the cooler side of halfway the gauge. It should be more warmer than half in my opinion. Ultra gauge would be more accurate though... When was coolant last changed? Although it should have a 5 year lifespan. |
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19th Jul 2016 10:13pm |
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Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971 |
Thinking back, when I was having EGR issues which triggered MAF faults it usually came up the the engine management light.
I do sometimes get power loss on a long run that doesn't trigger the light, and that's fault 0234 Turbo Overboost. I haven't worked out how to fix that yet but it causes the same symptoms you've got. Either way, you still need to get a fault code reader. Ultragauge is one option, then there's the iCarsoft one that's fairly cheap, or get one of the decent hobbyist ones like the GAP IIDTool or the Nanocom. |
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20th Jul 2016 11:33am |
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arf Member Since: 02 Jul 2016 Location: North West Posts: 10 |
To follow this up I got my local to take a look while getting some shocks fitted and it's been traced to the turbo, over and under boosting
Temps were either dead centre or slightly on the cool side. I'd check when the coolant was done but to be honest I don't trust the history on the car, I think I'll change all fluids myself when I get chance for peace of mind!
Looks like that's exactly my issue. They reckon its either the turbo itself or the loom, which was resting on the actuator! Apparently the actuator itself seems to have free movement so they've tied the loom back, will report back on whether that fixed it. Definitely right about the fault code reader, Nanocom is interesting but may angle for the Ultragauge and go for a dash install on it: Credit to... http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic31673....ltra+gauge |
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1st Aug 2016 1:36pm |
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arf Member Since: 02 Jul 2016 Location: North West Posts: 10 |
PS cheers for the help everyone!
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1st Aug 2016 1:40pm |
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Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971 |
The Ultraguage will tell you the basic fault code but that's it, it won't go in to details and won't do much (if any) Defender specific stuff. It will tell you when you're pootling down the motorway that it's P0234 though.
For what it's worth, I have an Ultragauge semi-permanently installed with Velcro on to the top of my dash. It sits there nicely, was minimal effort and looks right. It means that I can also pull it out when I want to read codes on another vehicle which has been very useful on a number of occasions. I also have the GAP IIDTool for Defender specific things, and an Autel MD802 on the way because I'm getting off having to remove the Ultragauge every time someone wants their fault codes reading or the light reset. It's quite an extravagant way of doing it but it was one of those cases where if I was going to spend the money I thought I might as well do it properly rather than be annoyed that it can't talk to vehicles I want it to talk to. Is urine-d off a swear word here? Wow. |
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1st Aug 2016 6:04pm |
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Dieselhead Member Since: 21 Oct 2012 Location: Pulborough. West Sussex Posts: 552 |
This sounds like a problem I am having with mine
If you drive it carefully its fine. It used to pull very well in 5th with foot to the floor. Now all it does is just be flat. Done all the change MAF . Cleaned MAP . Changed Air & fuel filter. Blown out intercooler & checked & changed pipes. Even changed the VCV & yes its better but still does not go like a cut cat like it did I am guessing the turbo or wiring breaking up Can someone tell me which bit of loom has the issuse as you can replace it so been told. Do the wires break down causing probs?? Thanks Chris 2008 XS 110 2.4 Utility. Tonga Green 1953 Series 1 for restoration 1983 Mini Mayfair 2004 VW T5 Camper 2008 Diahatsu Sirion. Thats hers Classic Bolens Garden Tractors |
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2nd Aug 2016 9:17pm |
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arf Member Since: 02 Jul 2016 Location: North West Posts: 10 |
Resulting this in the hope it helps another forum archaeologist in the future... If it does do post up, I know there's several Puma owners suffering with similar problems!
So in this case I had problems with power at more than 50% intermittently and at some times the turbo would stop functioning until the car is restarted, no MIL light but Turbo Overboost OBD code P0234 being logged After suffering for a bit and doing some forum archaeology I took it to my local and we cleaned the MAF, MAP and used a carbon cleaning machine to clear out any deposits in the system. Early days but it appears to have fixed everything, don't know which one of the three unfortunately but the MAF and MAP are easy to get to and can be ruled out quickly. I think this whole thing has been caused by oil from the K&N filter attracting carbon buildup *somewhere* in the system, so I'm going to switch to something less oily soon. Good luck to anyone else out there |
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2nd Dec 2016 7:37pm |
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