 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > From simple Puma 110 HardTop to PopTop Overland Camper |
 
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| Simon.pl Member Since: 15 Mar 2016 Location: Warsaw Posts: 98   
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Thanks Charcoal - will post some more pictures soon
Does anyone know if the extended wheel arches (like Terrafirma ones) are same as the original ones looking form inside? So do they cover the inside nicely or they just clip on on the outside of the fender and there is a gap over the wheel where the mud can get into? |
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23rd Jul 2016 5:00pm |
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| Simon.pl Member Since: 15 Mar 2016 Location: Warsaw Posts: 98
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Having a Defender with pop top conversion there is a little challenge when still wanting roll cage to be installed.
I've decided to build external/internal combination based on Raptor4x4 cage I bought second hand (from Defender 90). Two main arches are installed inside - one behind the front seats and the other one at the back of the car. Both made of 50mm tubes.  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Front and rear mounts were plug and play - the middle one had to be modified. Made of SS - one leg you can see is screwed in the frame from the side - the other one (not visible on the picture) sits on top of it. Click image to enlarge Similar to the rear one. Click image to enlarge Stainless bolts are used to fix it - will paint them black when the paint job will be carried. Click image to enlarge Two strengthening bars were added - make the whole design stronger in case of roll, but still allows to get to the back of the car from the front seats. Click image to enlarge As you can see - the lower frame is almost ready 
Click image to enlarge It's not perfect - as there is a gap above the windshild, but it's as big as it was while the original roof was installed - around 1cm. Still got the feeling the rear panels could be lowered around 0,5 cm, but will take care of it later. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Door seal fits fine - you can see new, a little bigger profile used for the seal on the other side (driver's side) Click image to enlarge External part of the roll cage being installed. Click image to enlarge Decided to keep the side tubes 11cm far from the frame as I want to install my James Baroud awning I'm having in my Discovery, on top of it, and it's 10cm deep. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I know it's not perfect solution as in case of any serious accident the upper part of the car will be damaged, but at least we should be safe inside and this seems to be a good compromise between safety and functionality. |
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28th Jul 2016 7:49pm |
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| charcoal Member Since: 28 Jul 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 941  
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Very good, your pop top is coming along nicely
1999 Land Rover Defender 110 td5 station wagon
1998 Land Rover Defender 110 County Station Wagon ~ Sold 1995 Land Rover Defender 110 V8 Station Wagon ~ Sold 
1985 Land Rover 110 ex mod project Tithonus ~ Sold |
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28th Jul 2016 11:01pm |
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| Simon.pl Member Since: 15 Mar 2016 Location: Warsaw Posts: 98
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Cheers, Charcoal
Enjoying the project |
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29th Jul 2016 12:35am |
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| Simon.pl Member Since: 15 Mar 2016 Location: Warsaw Posts: 98
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Been few weeks since my last post here.
It's due to starting the build thread on the FB page as I'm more often there than here. If anyone interested - https://www.facebook.com/OffRoadProwlers/ here it is. By the time the roof can be opened Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge strength of the frame checked twisting the chassis Click image to enlarge gull wing windows are almost ready (just need to instal the gus struts), Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge the raised air intake is ready from outside, Click image to enlarge and the water tanks are being finished. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge All good so far. If anyone would like some details here, let me know. As there was little interest in comments decided not to go for detailed description of the build, but feel free to ask if curious . |
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18th Sep 2016 2:55pm |
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| Mash Member Since: 09 Feb 2015 Location: Guernsey Posts: 1674  
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Awesome build so far Simon
Just two points reading through about the roll cage, you said you have utilised stainless steel bolts, I assume you have fitted the correct strength rated ones and not just normal ones, also very unlikely I know but one of the wagon platforms I have at work had rails running just above the doors, it was only after a couple had rolled we realised that this bar was bent downwards and prevented the door from opening, just somthing you might like to check. Hopefully the worst will never happen but I would rather pass this info on than not. Keep up the good work 90 wolf - Jasmin http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic39408.html
90 V8 - Maggie http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic42564.html 110 TD5 - Buggsy http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic59029.html 52HG25 lightweight https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72342.html D3 Hse - Fiona Capri 2l S - Anna Think I might have a problem............ |
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18th Sep 2016 3:17pm |
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| Simon.pl Member Since: 15 Mar 2016 Location: Warsaw Posts: 98
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Just realized it's been almost a year since my last post here
Well - started to tear the car down around January. A friend of mine let me place it in it's little workshop and the big journey started. It took me about 4 months to have the chassis and and body ready, but I do 95% of the job by myself so it's rather slow (it took around 100 hours to have the chassis ready for bathing and another 60 to have the body ready for spraying). The chassis was zinc bathed Click image to enlarge and then sprayed with Line-x Click image to enlarge Also all the panels were sprayed with Line-x as well Click image to enlarge Started to build the car from the ground up around mid May. Ashcroft ATB at the front and Full Locker on the back were installed as well as MT82 shaft improvement (what a pain removing the old one!!) Underbody parts were refreshed and was really happy when I finally saw it standing on it's wheels
Click image to enlarge Now slowly putting all the parts together and trying to find "what should go where" 
Still long way to go but I think it's the best way to know your Defender |
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30th Jul 2017 8:47pm |
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| Simon.pl Member Since: 15 Mar 2016 Location: Warsaw Posts: 98
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Just realized it's been almost a year since my last post here
Well - started to tear the car down around January. A friend of mine let me place it in it's little workshop and the big journey started. It took me about 4 months to have the chassis and and body ready, but I do 95% of the job by myself so it's rather slow (it took around 100 hours to have the chassis ready for bathing and another 60 to have the body ready for spraying). The chassis was zinc bathed Click image to enlarge and then sprayed with Line-x Click image to enlarge Also all the panels were sprayed with Line-x as well Click image to enlarge Started to build the car from the ground up around mid May. Ashcroft ATB at the front and Full Locker on the back were installed as well as MT82 shaft improvement (what a pain removing the old one!!) Underbody parts were refreshed and was really happy when I finally saw it standing on it's wheels
Click image to enlarge Now slowly putting all the parts together and trying to find "what should go where"
Still long way to go but I think it's the best way to know your Defender |
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30th Jul 2017 8:48pm |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10502 
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Thank you for posting this back on def2 as i dont do facebook
 what a journey that you have been through and now you can see the light at the end of the tunnel, great build Simon  1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up. Keeper.
Clayton. |
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30th Jul 2017 9:29pm |
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| Simon.pl Member Since: 15 Mar 2016 Location: Warsaw Posts: 98
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Thank you Clayton
I was just looking for some informations here again and though I "owe" something to all those great people sharing their knowledge here so decided to post back here about the progress. Maybe somebody will find it useful. Got TONS of pictures and after all that "little things" that had already been done to the Defender it's really hard to pick up the right stuff just for one post so when I find more time will write more detailed description of what had been done and how. Let just leave the previous post as a starter  |
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30th Jul 2017 9:36pm |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10502
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Thank you for the " starter " pic's
will look forward when one day you have enough time to " update " this thread, thank you again Simon  1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up. Keeper.
Clayton. |
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30th Jul 2017 9:56pm |
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| Simon.pl Member Since: 15 Mar 2016 Location: Warsaw Posts: 98
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Resurrection post again
As the car been driving since few months decided to make a short update of the progress. Few "mile stones" in next few posts
Ashcroft upgrade for the MT82: It was a REAL PAIN to install. Well. To remove the old one. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Dynamating was nice and easy though
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Than there was a time for aircon install. Bought the kit from Devon4x4. Not very intuitive manual arrived with it, but managed to do it. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Engine will work a little cooler with new intake, new intercooler, hoses and exhaust from Alive 
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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14th Oct 2018 4:55pm |
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| Simon.pl Member Since: 15 Mar 2016 Location: Warsaw Posts: 98
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Inspired by the post I've seen once I was digging for some ideas where to go with the mods on my Puma, decided to give it a try and install the trip/board computer on the instrument panel to have clear view for the most important parameters of the engine, or simply use it as a trip computer.
Bought the UltraGauge from the USA that is able to read about 48 parameters of our Defenders systems, read and clear the trouble codes and decided to embed it in the dash. Striping the instrument panel seems more tricky that is in reality - just need to be careful when removing the pointers and generally dealing with the whole thing (the plastic is very soft I would say), but in the same time it's quite easy to work with as it does not break easily. Whole operation took about 5 hours including OBD wires desoldering/soldering that wasn't necessary at the end. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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14th Oct 2018 5:24pm |
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| Simon.pl Member Since: 15 Mar 2016 Location: Warsaw Posts: 98
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Additional fuel filter install.
10 micron pre-filter with the water detection system. Have it between the tank and main fuel filter. A little unfortunate place considering safety of the filter, but quite good when thinking of making new fuel lines. Some kind of cover should protect it from stones and mud and there is easy access to inspect and drain if needed. Using copper brake cord to get the shape the lines should have. Been looking for quick connectors being used in original fuel lines and also the material I could make the new lines from. From my research it seems like poliamid (Tekalan) pipes (PA12) could be a good choice as the rubber ones are not as durable as I would like them to be. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Additional fuel tank design and install: It has around 52L (that is the amount of liters I was able to fill it with, so tested, not calculated)
Down side - rear shaft touches it sometimes on bigger bumps and I didn't do serious off roading yet  Will need to be removed and modified a little..
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14th Oct 2018 5:55pm |
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