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Arierep



Member Since: 12 Apr 2013
Location: Portugal
Posts: 258

Portugal 1995 Defender 90 300 Tdi SW Alpine White
Caster corrected arms - I have a 2" lift and felt absolutely no need for them, as others didn't, but each car seems to behave differently

Extended bump stops - only needed if you lift but keep original length shocks. I lifted mine in a way that I could fit bigger tyres but still use stock length shocks, so extended bumpstops were the option. I actually used bumpstop spacers, which allow me to use original bumpstops
Post #537291 3rd Jun 2016 6:53pm
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sharkey964



Member Since: 05 Oct 2014
Location: On a muddy track
Posts: 570

France 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
Yes,exactly.But only if you keep the origional length shocks.
If you fit +5.5" or greater shocks,they won't top out before the bump stops are reached.
Marc.
Post #537304 3rd Jun 2016 7:35pm
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Simon.pl



Member Since: 15 Mar 2016
Location: Warsaw
Posts: 98

Poland 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Keswick Green
Thumbs Up

So looks like with my Koni shocks I don't have to worry about extended bumpstops as they should be longer than the original shocks Cool
Post #537344 3rd Jun 2016 9:40pm
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Arierep



Member Since: 12 Apr 2013
Location: Portugal
Posts: 258

Portugal 1995 Defender 90 300 Tdi SW Alpine White
Actualy, if your shocks are longer, chances are their compressed length will also be longer, hence the need for extended bumpstops. But you should try cycle the suspension without the springs first and ser what you need.

What tyres will you fit? From 255/85r16 or 285/75r16 on extended bumpstops might be needed to avoid rub, specially on a 110
Post #537379 4th Jun 2016 6:22am
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Simon.pl



Member Since: 15 Mar 2016
Location: Warsaw
Posts: 98

Poland 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Keswick Green
Yeah - the longer I think about it the more reasons I find pro extended bump stops. I think - having longer shocks, the distance from the axle to the frame is longer so standard bump stop is not able to prevent against bottoming of the longer shock out. That means the shock is exposed to damage in case of hard hit. Will buy the extended polybushes for the rear and front. Just seems the are not easy to find! At least Devon4x4 don't offer them for the Defenders after 2002 and the price in Poland is ridiculous.

Will use 285/75/16 - had Cooper Discoverer STT on my Discovery (and bought them again as I find them excellent) and just bought Discoverer STT PRO for the Defender Thumbs Up
Post #538167 7th Jun 2016 11:12am
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Simon.pl



Member Since: 15 Mar 2016
Location: Warsaw
Posts: 98

Poland 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Keswick Green
2" lift installed.


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Happy owner Mr. Green



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The computer design is still in progress. Takes a lot of time, but I think it's worth it. Saves a lot of potential mistakes I could make without it.
Few PrntScrns below.

With bed up:
Me standing in front of the sink and my wife sitting Rolling with laughter


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With bed down:



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Wink

My biggest concern at the moment is where the cold water tank should be placed. The grey box above which my wife is sitting is the 75l tank. It is a good place considering we would like to go somewhere where is cold and stay for few nights in the car. This place could prevent the water from freezing (when the Webasto is on through the night the temperature inside would be above 0 degrees so there shouldn't be a problem with water freezing). Unfortunately the tank takes a lot of valuable space inside which could be used for storage of folded tables, chairs, shower, etc..

Thought of moving it outside where the air tank is on the picture or next to the frame on the left side of the car, but isolation takes space as well and the capacity would drop to around 40l.. Thought of using Webasto exhaust pipe running through the tank outside, so when the Webasto is on, the water should not freeze in the tank. But I'm not convinced to such solution.


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Any ideas guys? Thumbs Up

The tank that seets underneath the sink is 15l Elgena Nuctic_Therm (didn't purchased it yet but this is the plan). It has coolant connectors so the coolant is heating the water like in simple heater exchanger - it has also 12V 200A heater inside in case we need this. The water can be heated up to 85 degrees so it seems connecting it with cold water would make around 30l of warm water that could be used inside the car.

Thumbs Up
Post #544544 29th Jun 2016 2:40pm
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wyvern



Member Since: 13 Dec 2009
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 2066

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Firenze Red
our 40 ltr tank sits under the vehicle on the drivers side moulded to fit along the chassis to keep ground clearance.
In all the time I have had this tank (20 yrs) I have never had it freeze. we do have the pipework insulated from the tank to the water pump at the sink ..

seen here, the white box like thing below the drivers door under the wagon...


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 Poppy - TDCI (Puma) 110XS 2.2 - Camper conversion - see the build here - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic56530.html
Elgar -TDCI(Puma) 110XS Dormobile - now sold
Devon & Cornwall 4x4 Response - DC126


Last edited by wyvern on 29th Jun 2016 4:59pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #544576 29th Jun 2016 3:55pm
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Simon.pl



Member Since: 15 Mar 2016
Location: Warsaw
Posts: 98

Poland 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Keswick Green
Was considering this position as well. From my calculations seems like it could be even close to 60 liters.

Is it made of metal or plastic? 20yrs - long time. I assume it is for cold water? Quite surprising it never freezes! Even when the temperatures goes under 0 Celsius degrees? Shocked How is it possible?
Post #544579 29th Jun 2016 4:04pm
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wyvern



Member Since: 13 Dec 2009
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 2066

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Firenze Red
The tank is plastic and only holds cold water. We keep a 10 ltr water bottle in the cab as a secondary supply just in case.

The part of the UK where we live is not blessed with extreme cold winters and only go down to -4 or -5 once or twice a year .. , however as I said above, we have had this tank on 2 defenders in that time and have never had any problems ...

It may well freeze in extreme winters but so far not, but then again we also don't have a fuel tank heater to keep the fuel from freezing so not sure if that can also be seen as a possible problem for cold weather.

It would be easy to put a small heater pad on the tank to keep it warm if you are worried about freezing as I expect that you will have an auxiliary battery for the hotel service equipment (heater, lights, water pump etc )

There is a slim long line water tank that I have seen that fits behind the front seats like a bulk head that may do what you want, but we cherish the inside space to much to entertain one..... Poppy - TDCI (Puma) 110XS 2.2 - Camper conversion - see the build here - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic56530.html
Elgar -TDCI(Puma) 110XS Dormobile - now sold
Devon & Cornwall 4x4 Response - DC126
Post #544592 29th Jun 2016 4:55pm
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Simon.pl



Member Since: 15 Mar 2016
Location: Warsaw
Posts: 98

Poland 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Keswick Green
I don't think the fuel tank heater is really needed during "normal" winters - but still - with -20C the water would definitely freeze in my opinion. Considering Norway or Island temperatures around this time, I'm still thinking of finding a solution to heat the water tank a little, or at least keep it isolated.

I wouldn't like to fit anything behind the front seats as well. Would like to have possibility to get into the "hotel space" as you named it Very Happy And of course - will have separate battery for all the additional equipment. Been designing my Power Drawing - will paste it when it's finished.

I think the position you are having, but with the small exhaust pipe going through the tank, would serve well.
Post #544597 29th Jun 2016 5:12pm
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Simon.pl



Member Since: 15 Mar 2016
Location: Warsaw
Posts: 98

Poland 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Keswick Green
Update at the end of July
Body work has started.

First thing I've done is this simple improvement - little rubber between the rear door panel and the, hmm - Question - however you name it Wink The spare wheel on the rear door was hitting the rear lights and the panel was a little bent. This little guy solved this issue Very Happy


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Than roof had been removed.


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Was also inspecting places under the car to see where the roll cage mounts should be fitted - some weight was dropped Mr. Green


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Checker plate was installed for the easier access to the front of the roof


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Than we have made a template for the front element that goes over the windscreen. All the dimensions were transferred to the computer for the final design and future laser cut.


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I was also tying to remove the fixings of the side panels, but noticed the screws were turning and there was no access to the head of the screw. That's how I found out the floor panel wasn't original Wink Decided to remove it - was quite hard job to do, but ended up successfully Laughing


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Was quite surprise to find around 60 holes in the floor! No doubt the car is not waterproof Rolling with laughter
I know it was probably for the water to go out from the car, but it is also a good way of getting water in so decided to get rid of all of them.


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Post #550514 22nd Jul 2016 8:09pm
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Simon.pl



Member Since: 15 Mar 2016
Location: Warsaw
Posts: 98

Poland 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Keswick Green
Job done Very Happy


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Finally some aluminium profiles have arrived

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and all the parts for the three elements:

1. Above the wind screen on the front

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2. The part that will fill the hole in front of the roof

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3. Rear panel above the rear door

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This is the closeup of the element that needs to be bent

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Couple more shots of the puzzles Cool


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Fits nicely on the front

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and on the back as well

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Mr. Green

This is the main part of the roll bar - the red tape pictures the bars that will be welded inside to make it stronger. This shape will allow to get to the "hotel" part of the car from the front seat.


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Post #550519 22nd Jul 2016 8:24pm
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Simon.pl



Member Since: 15 Mar 2016
Location: Warsaw
Posts: 98

Poland 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Keswick Green
Rear panel welded.

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Front just to keep it together and check the fitment Wink

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A little "nicer" back Mr. Green

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And now the question - is such a big difference, between the door line and the rear panel, normal?

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Seems like there might be something wrong and the fitment with the front element can be a problem.. Shocked Big Cry

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Post #550520 22nd Jul 2016 8:37pm
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Cupboard



Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 2971

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey
The holes in your floor - a lot of them are factory fit holes. There are supposed to be three steel rails running down the length of the floor from the back door to the bulkhead to make sliding things along a bit easier.

The gap... I seem to remember having a gap about that big when I took my roof off. The roof helps line it up and the rubber fills in the gap.

I liked your weight removal technique Laughing Whenever I do a job under my Defender even if I think it's clean I usually end up with a pile of mud from somewhere.

If you've got all your plans on a computer, could you make up a kit of parts to sell?
Post #550577 23rd Jul 2016 8:37am
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Simon.pl



Member Since: 15 Mar 2016
Location: Warsaw
Posts: 98

Poland 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Keswick Green
There was no rails in mine. I don't need them anyway, so don't bother anymore. Hope it will be more waterproof this way. Although I plan to do full bodywork when the pop top, windows and additional tanks are done I decided to do it now. Very Happy

Well - when I look at this picture I found somewhere on the net, it seems like this setup is more tight.

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Seems like there is one, continuous line from the back to the very front and the wind screen frame is as high as the back panel with windows. It's definitely not like this in mine Shocked

Is this connection original?

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I mean those two silver brackets on the left?

There was a lot of silicone there from the very beginning, but I'm not sure who made it - LR during production, or the previous user..

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Will think of the parts to sell later - at this stage it is still one step forward and two steps back, so I wouldn't like to sell something that doesn't fit perfectly. And also seems like every Defender is a little bit different so not sure if this would be universal enough Rolling with laughter

Will see when all is done. Main frame is being welded. Stay tuned Cool
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Post #550632 23rd Jul 2016 1:02pm
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