 | Home > Technical > Faulty Door Actuator? |
 
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| landybear Member Since: 18 Oct 2015 Location: Tamworth & Worcester Posts: 134   
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Cant confirm what the voltage should be, however for a quick sense check you could test the side that works correctly and compare the readings. 2003 Defender TD5 Hardtop (current - work in progress)
2014 Discovery 4 HSE (Current) / 2009 Discovery 3 HSE 2009 (Previous) Disco 2 Landmark 2004, 2001, 2002 (Previous) Disco 1 300tdi 1996 & V8i 1995, 200tdi 1993 (previous) Defender 110 300tdi 1993 (Previous) Range Rover Vogue 4.6 - 2001 (Previous) Freelanders TD4 (2001 3 door & 2002 5 door) Previous 90 2.5 then converted to V8i (1990), 90 2.25 then converted to v8 (1986) plus others |
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8th Mar 2016 12:02pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769  
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You say you've checked the wires but have you physically pulled them near to the rubber boot between the door and pillar? The wires can be broken but can touch when the door is in certain positions so it's worth a tug (
 ) of the wires to see if they come out of the boot. Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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8th Mar 2016 1:00pm |
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| ChrisCM Member Since: 10 Jun 2013 Location: Cornwall uk Posts: 572 
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I'll check the voltage at the plug on one of the other doors.
I'm pretty certain that the wire(s) aren't broken, I took the rubber boot and the plug out of the frame and pulled them about quite a bit before I tested them. Chris 2010 Defender 110 Station Wagon, Santorini Black. |
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8th Mar 2016 2:14pm |
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| spudfan Member Since: 10 Sep 2007 Location: Co Donegal Posts: 4507 
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If the wires are not broken remove the door trim. You will see a white plastic unit where the two metal rods meet and swivel. Just lubricate the this plastic unit. This solved my backdoor when it would not unlock with the fob. 1982 88" 2.25 diesel
1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali 2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu 2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai |
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8th Mar 2016 8:17pm |
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| ChrisCM Member Since: 10 Jun 2013 Location: Cornwall uk Posts: 572
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Thanks Spudfan, I've taken the trim off already, there doesn't seem to be any binding of the connecting joints. When I operate the fob there is no movement in the actuator at all and with my finger on the actuator I can't feel anything happening inside so unless my voltages are wrong then I fear that it is the actuator, but I will double check tomorrow, if the rain stops!
Chris 2010 Defender 110 Station Wagon, Santorini Black. |
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8th Mar 2016 11:41pm |
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| spudfan Member Since: 10 Sep 2007 Location: Co Donegal Posts: 4507
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I was hoping that it was just something simple!
Goodluck  1982 88" 2.25 diesel
1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali 2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu 2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai |
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8th Mar 2016 11:46pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769
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Caterham on here has gone through 2 or 3 actuators on one of his doors in the past few years so failure is a possibility. One of my 2nd row actuators died last year but had been on its way out for a while as I could hear it getting slower and struggling to unlock the door but my defender is a 2004 so a lot older than yours. Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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9th Mar 2016 12:21am |
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| Go Beyond Member Since: 30 Jan 2012 Location: Headcorn, Kent Posts: 6676
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How about swapping over with the other door
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9th Mar 2016 8:37am |
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| AJC Member Since: 30 Nov 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 1336
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I've just had the same issue, i 100% have nothing wrong with the wiring when i checked it.
Ordered an actautor Monday and think it'll be here today so fingers crossed i'll have it fixed tonight. don't really like the no door card look. As suggested you could try another actuator from another door, but that means breaking all the black plastic inserts 
New ones for my Td5 are about £45 from paddocks |
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9th Mar 2016 9:14am |
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| ChrisCM Member Since: 10 Jun 2013 Location: Cornwall uk Posts: 572
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According to my local LR dealer the actuators are different left and right, probably the same for front and rear?
I agree with AJC about taking the door card off, my vapour barrier is made of a grey foam sheet material similar to fragile wrapping which tears when you look at it, 'orrible stuff, the polythene was much easier, I foresee the use of plenty of duct tape to repair it  Also, those plastic clips I have the correct removal tools but still managed to break several away from the door card, luckily an easy fix with some epoxy!
Getting the new actuator today so will keep you posted, paying £42 + Vat for mine, genuine LR part, so probably the same as Paddocks when you factor in carriage. Chris 2010 Defender 110 Station Wagon, Santorini Black. |
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9th Mar 2016 11:30am |
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| Merlin Member Since: 30 Oct 2010 Location: Newmarket Posts: 980
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I had the rear o/s central locking fail, twice. It was the wires in the door jam that had broken. One at a time! When testing I found that a battery (+ve) comes down one wire to open the door and then another +ve comes down the other wire to close it. Sorry that's not very technical.
So to test it one had to hold a tester on the right wire while using the key fob to actuate the correct sequence. Difficult! Merlin |
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9th Mar 2016 4:06pm |
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| philbert Member Since: 18 Sep 2015 Location: Falkirk Posts: 44 
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Could someone please post the part number for the rear door actuator for a TDCI
Thanks |
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9th Mar 2016 4:30pm |
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| ChrisCM Member Since: 10 Jun 2013 Location: Cornwall uk Posts: 572
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Same Merlin, when I tested mine (2 wires) I put a multimeter across the 2 wires, and as you say it was either a + or -voltage for locking/unlocking, can't remember which was which, all of which is quite logical.
Chris 2010 Defender 110 Station Wagon, Santorini Black. |
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9th Mar 2016 6:56pm |
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| ChrisCM Member Since: 10 Jun 2013 Location: Cornwall uk Posts: 572
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New actuator fitted, all working
Chris 2010 Defender 110 Station Wagon, Santorini Black. |
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12th Mar 2016 2:21am |
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