 | Home > Technical > Can a used chassis be galvanised? |
 
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| Tommo Member Since: 19 Dec 2013 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 830   
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I thought you could galvanize an used chassis. Could be wrong though
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18th Jan 2016 10:14pm |
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| ibexman Member Since: 13 Dec 2008 Location: kent Posts: 2874
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It's usually blasted and repaired prior to galvanising
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18th Jan 2016 10:15pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5743 
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If you watched the likes of Camper Van crisis, a VW camper (Dipsy) was taken to a place and dipped to remove the paint, filler etc leaving a rust free shell. Maybe the same followed by repair and galv ? 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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18th Jan 2016 10:27pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5743
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http://www.surfaceprocessing.co.uk/ 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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18th Jan 2016 10:29pm |
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| ibexman Member Since: 13 Dec 2008 Location: kent Posts: 2874
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Everyone's seen a 4x4 is born ...... Haven't they
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18th Jan 2016 10:30pm |
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| ian series 1 Member Since: 17 Nov 2014 Location: south Posts: 3127 
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I've had my 1956 series 1 chassis galvanised, I repaired it, had it blasted, then sent to be done.
Got it back, prepped it for paint (Bit of work involved on that front) But looks great, cost £120 
YOU, will have to remove any traces of paint, foreign material etc. The cleaning and dipping process will not do this! You will just end up with a poor job, the chassis needs to be spotless before sending it. Surface rust after blasting is not an issue. Just be aware, you will need to re tap any threaded holes, and drill out most holes that will take a fixing. It can be a lot of work, but well worth the effort. This is it after being galvanised, and just had a coat of T,wash to dull it, and give the primer a good key.  Click image to enlarge This one is just after blasting, rust will appear within a few hours. Click image to enlarge 80" 80" 86" 88" 90" Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered. |
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18th Jan 2016 10:48pm |
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| AJC Member Since: 30 Nov 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 1333
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Yes, all traces of oil, paint, dirt etc all needs removing, including the inside of the chassis, you'll need lots of cleaning agent, paint stripper, wire wheels and a bloody good power washer
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19th Jan 2016 7:46am |
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| Cuthbert Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: Up North Posts: 1535 |
There are a couple of galvanising companies up in Scotland who could hot dip zinc galvanise your 'used' chassis. None of them would be interested in stripping any components off - so that is your problem. What they do usually offer is a form of shotblasting service (extra cost) so that the molten zinc gets a good 'grip' and coverage of the chassis. If there are any weak areas then you might see the chassis literally disappearing in front of you. Alternatively you can get it shotblasted elsewhere to ensure the chassis is sound before dipping. What you want is a chassis that looks like fresh shiny steel with zero paint/grease etc. Prior to dipping in the molten bath of zinc the chassis will also be pre-prepared by dipping in a couple of pickling baths (nasty caustic chemicals) to ensure the surfaces are ready to take the zinc. Usually the galvaniser will charge by weight of your parts not physical size. You might also want to consider transportation to and from the galvanisers. Another tip - they don't usually want non-trade jobs - the hassle of getting mucked about, folk not preparing the chassis for them, moans about threaded inserts getting blocked and squabbles over getting paid. So if you want it done - do your homework and prep in advance. The galvanisers are not all the same quality either - some do offshore work to a high spec others are better suited to cheap farm gates. |
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19th Jan 2016 9:42pm |
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| Disco_Mikey Member Since: 16 Nov 2014 Location: Dundee Posts: 531  
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Being trade-only isn't an issue. My profile pic may give that away
Location isn't an issue either, there is a Galv company fairly local However, i thought an acid dip would have stripped all the paint off the chassis internals. Evidently not, so it looks as though a new chassis will be the way to go. It will be a keeper, so it's worth spending the extra, and doing it right 1st time |
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19th Jan 2016 10:11pm |
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| Gareth Member Since: 12 Dec 2011 Location: Bramhall Posts: 1038  
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Mike, I bought a new galv chassis for my 2a in 2003. Its still as new. Best £1500 I ever spent! 2021 Defender 110 X-Dynamic HSE D300 MHEV
1966 S2a 109 aka Betsy 1968 S2a 88 aka Bob 2014 Jaaaag F Type 3.0 Supercharged. |
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19th Jan 2016 10:52pm |
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| termohe Member Since: 23 Jul 2012 Location: De Pinte Posts: 15  
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Got my 110 chemical cleaned in a bath with acid, came back as new.
Then left it outside some weeks to get rust on the surface and then galvanized it |
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19th Jan 2016 11:13pm |
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