 | Home > In Car Electronics > Electrical..... help!!! Interior light |
 
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19690  
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I assume you've tried fuse 30 under the dash? Should be 10A.
(On a 2.4 Puma, 2.2's may be different.**) |
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21st Jan 2016 12:22am |
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| dumptruckface Member Since: 24 Aug 2015 Location: Somerset Posts: 39  
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Checked all fuses, would or is the switched negative be fused?
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21st Jan 2016 12:39am |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971 
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No, only the permanent live is fused.
If, like you say, it comes on manually, then the feed is fine. There's either a problem with the 10AS alarm control unit or the wiring to it. I'd double check that all your connections are properly in to the back of the original light unit. |
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21st Jan 2016 8:21am |
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| dumptruckface Member Since: 24 Aug 2015 Location: Somerset Posts: 39
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ok so all fuses are fine, i have ascertained that the door switches input into the AS10 alarm interface thingy, i have metered between pins 1 on the grey plug to the interior light and this has continuity, i have also tried to set the alarm with one door at a time open and it will always sound the horn, indication that the AS10 is getting the door open triggers, in turn indicating that the door pins/switch's are working......... so its starting to look like a AS10 fault? can i unplug the AS10 connectors in an attempt to power down and reset? or will this encourage an immobiliser issue? the only other thing i can think of is to drop the battery off the car and then re connect in the long lost hope that something might reset itself?
also does anyone think i would have an issue shorting out pins 1 and pins 5 with the drivers door open to prove the light comes on, by doing this i would prove the AS10 is at fault, my biggest concern is messing with the AS10 i really dont want to immobilise my truck here at work and create a bigger issue. this is the connector info i downloaded.  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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21st Jan 2016 11:36am |
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| dumptruckface Member Since: 24 Aug 2015 Location: Somerset Posts: 39
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OK so i have gone ahead and removed the grey connector, shorted out the pins 1 and 5, when i push the drivers door pin in and out i get the internal light on and off, so this is proving my wiring (which i was sure was ok) and is also proving my door switch of which i was confident with also......... so im guessing that the issue i have must lie within the AS10 unit? im no landrover technician but i have proven everything else within the equation as far as i can see.
Am i missing something? is this something that landrover have to replace or is this something i can get a replacement for, or are there settings that can be reset by LR etc? |
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21st Jan 2016 12:07pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19690
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Check the door switches.
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21st Jan 2016 12:17pm |
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| dumptruckface Member Since: 24 Aug 2015 Location: Somerset Posts: 39
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I HAVE CHECKED THE DOOR SWITCHES they are all fine.
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21st Jan 2016 12:24pm |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971
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You can get replacements. It is also possible to turn off the interior light with a diagnostics tool, so it's not beyond the realms of possibility that your 10AS has decided that you don't really want the light and it's turned itself off for you. The only way to fix that would be with a plug in. I think the Nanocom can, the IIDTool can, any dealer would be able to. If you lock the car with a window open and manually open the door (i.e. "break in") does the alarm go off? Edit: actually re-reading your first post you've already done that, just in a different way. I think you've either broken the output on the 10AS or it's decided to be unhelpful. Next steps would be to disconnect the battery as you say (but bear in mind the BBUS and the battery disconnect procedure), if that doesn't work then a diagnostics plug in, then either new 10AS or take it apart (of that's possible) and have a poke around. |
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21st Jan 2016 2:23pm |
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| gazman Member Since: 17 Aug 2015 Location: Liverpool Posts: 652 
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Funnily enough I've got exactly the same problem with my interior light on my td5.
If I ever get it plugged into a Nanocom I'm going to get the settings checked. 2014 - current ..... 2003 defender td5 90 (my car) 2009 - current .... 2005 zx10r |
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21st Jan 2016 2:53pm |
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| dumptruckface Member Since: 24 Aug 2015 Location: Somerset Posts: 39
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Hhhhm so it looks like I have gone as far as I can, nanocom is £385 that's something I'm not going to be investing in right now!, does anyone know anyone who has this in the Somerset area that could take a look for me?
I called my dealer and they are happy to take a look for £108 per hour!!! Lol a mate of mine has a top of the range snap on unit would this be able to check the interior light settings? Failing that I have contacted a guy who can repair my 10AS unit, around £40 I'm just concerned about sending it to him and my vehicle being at the mercy of a courier! |
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22nd Jan 2016 7:50am |
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| gazman Member Since: 17 Aug 2015 Location: Liverpool Posts: 652
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My best friend has his own garage and has snap on and a few other readers. Unfortunately they can only read the codes not change any settings. Or at least the ones he has cant
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22nd Jan 2016 7:54am |
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| dumptruckface Member Since: 24 Aug 2015 Location: Somerset Posts: 39
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I figured that might be the case, guess I'm resigned to sending my 10as module away for repair/diagnostics...... I could just live with no interior light, but it bugs the hell out of me!
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22nd Jan 2016 8:08am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16978 
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Whereabouts in Somerset are you? it's a big county!
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22nd Jan 2016 10:22am |
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| dumptruckface Member Since: 24 Aug 2015 Location: Somerset Posts: 39
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Im in Taunton
 willing to travel tho for some help, i guess if i can rule out the 10AS just deciding to switch the light off, then i know it needs to be repaired. |
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22nd Jan 2016 10:32am |
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