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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5765   
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Just a quick question for you more knowledgable sorts, which occurred to me whilst watching coverage of the recent floods. Basically, if you were to fit a snorkel and also have a remap, would the map have to be altered to get the best out of the engine or does the airflow remain the same and not effect it? Along similar lines, and knowing the benefits of extra airflow to an engine for performance, has anyone considered modifying the blank wing top to create extra airflow into the engine? No plans to do either (bar the remap), just interested as a bit of info to lock away in the little grey cells....
 Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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23rd Dec 2015 10:00am |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018  
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Do yo have a photo of the airbox drain plug - I can't remember seeing one in mine?
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23rd Dec 2015 12:27pm |
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| Naks Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Stellenbosch, ZA Posts: 2591  
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I have a BAS remap & Mantec RAI, no issues.
Pete recommends not to have a RAI, but we drive lots of gravel roads and this keeps the dust ingest to a minimum. -- 2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear 2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged 
Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9 Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ |
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23rd Dec 2015 12:44pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19579
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I don't sorry, there isn't a rubber bung type thing as standard if that's what you mean?
The drain is there as standard a little hole in the bottom of the airbox. If you wanted it watertight you'd have to seal up the airbox ducting and piping. The wing to ducting and the Snorkel to wing. And of course seal the drain hole too. I'd never wade my 90 that deep to want to plug the airbox drain hole. Plus if any water did get in by other means it'd do a good job of keeping water in too which is not good obviously! Some of the piping that should be sealed: Click image to enlarge The drain hole you can just about see here on the right in the bottom. Click image to enlarge The above was just as I was doing the airbox mod. I've got a Safari to fit to mine this coming year, personally I intend to seal everything up bar the drain hole. This way it's extra safe in case there was any rain ingress, which there shouldn't be. But IF and it's a hardly likely IF I wanted to you'd just have to seal the drain hole up and it'd be watertight. Or at least a Safari is as it's a Snorkel which a Mantec or similar isn't as they are Raised Air Aintakes. As far as I am aware both have rain separators in the RAI / Snorkel top, negletgating the use of the water separator in the ducting. Removing the piping rain separator but keeping the standard rai / snorkel rain separator removes one restriction whist keeping an efffective one. Right now I've had no rain separator in or snorkel rain separator for two years with zero issues. Tuners say it makes no difference, maybe so on paper but I think it improves running / smoothness and and you get throttle quicker response. There is lots of different scenarios regarding this so I really don't think there is a good or bad option. End of the day you'll notice very little difference if any. Naks - Just read your message as I'm typing - that is the same reason I decided to get mine. Not water but reduced dust and debris ingress. I drive lots of country lanes in the summer, lots of dust especially when machinery kicks it up in hedges etc. When I changed my filter I had lots of general debris that you'd associate with the height the intake is. Up to you wouldn't get it, even had a few insects. Yes, up top you wil still get some but to a lesser degree especially dirt. You can even use a pre filter if needed too. And breathe... 
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23rd Dec 2015 12:53pm |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018
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Click image to enlarge Not sure if mine doesn't have that. |
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23rd Dec 2015 1:02pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19579
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Looks like it does just out of shot. Look at the inlet hole and straight below just out of the photo.
You're photo and mine are taken from different angles.
Looks like there is just the one drain hole. |
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23rd Dec 2015 1:51pm |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018
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Looking again- you may well be right
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23rd Dec 2015 1:57pm |
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| Rosco Member Since: 03 Dec 2010 Location: Burntwood Posts: 1805 
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Just jumping onto this thread, how have people gone about protecting the ecu and the electronics sat in the seat boxes? When the topic of accessories and in particular snorkels/RAI was mentioned on my LR experience day, the instructor really got quite passionate about not being able to improve the wading depth. 2007 - Stornoway Grey 90 XS SW - Gone
2002 - Black Discovery II - Gone 2014 - Montalcino Red 110 XS SW |
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23rd Dec 2015 2:08pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19579
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I think there are extension harnesses? Perhaps I'm thinking of TD5's.
There is axle breathers to think of. Why anyone would deep wade a Puma I don't know for some of us who own it as their pride and joy and are not exactly cheap. Think the deepest I've gone is axles roughly, water is a very damaging thing.  |
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23rd Dec 2015 2:27pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16883 
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In my view and experience an RAI or snorkel makes little difference because the induction system is strangled so much by the restrictive pipework from the wing intake to the filter box. If you want it to breathe, fit a Nugget Duct consisting of a properly-sealed large bore pipe from wing grille to airbox.
Deepest I've taken my Puma was up to the level of the outside door-handles  , it was a bit deeper than I'd expected! The carpets took a while to dry, but at least it didn't float so I didn't have to open the door. |
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23rd Dec 2015 2:28pm |
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| TJ101 Member Since: 30 May 2007 Location: Taunton Somerset Posts: 3747 
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100% Blackwolf,, If you want it to breath properly
Just fiting the best RAI for a Puma,, Mantec along with the Nugget kit,, Pic to follow of the LR pipework !!!! California F1, 75th 110 "Kermit", 50th Ann V8, 90 V8 Hybrid, 55 Series 1 Main Brian James Trailer Dealer for South West UK |
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23rd Dec 2015 3:24pm |
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| TJ101 Member Since: 30 May 2007 Location: Taunton Somerset Posts: 3747
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Std LR intake pipework, and where to cut to remove it !! to be replace with a Nugget Stuff sealed system http://www.firstfour.co.uk/item/2176798/de...ystem--rhd
Click image to enlarge Replaced with a 90mm hose sealed and clipped both ends To answer the OP question,, Have noticed no different, with or without a RAI, and with or without a remap Mines fitted for the dust issues, and used as a RAI BUT, while the jobs being done, may as well do it properly and seal the intake system,, just in case it need to be used as a snorkel California F1, 75th 110 "Kermit", 50th Ann V8, 90 V8 Hybrid, 55 Series 1
Main Brian James Trailer Dealer for South West UK |
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23rd Dec 2015 3:38pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19579
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What do these Nugget Duct things look like? Never seen one.
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23rd Dec 2015 5:09pm |
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| TJ101 Member Since: 30 May 2007 Location: Taunton Somerset Posts: 3747
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Look at the link as i posted above,, picture, plus it comes with the 90mm pipework
Unit that sits inside the wing behind the intake Click image to enlarge California F1, 75th 110 "Kermit", 50th Ann V8, 90 V8 Hybrid, 55 Series 1 Main Brian James Trailer Dealer for South West UK |
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23rd Dec 2015 5:22pm |
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