Quote:

- The two yellow wires connect to the left and right turn signals (flash simultaneously with the original turn signals)

Quote:

Wire Connection:
- Red and black wires connect to the positive and negative terminals of car battery
- Blue wire connects to ACC, with time delay function (when car starts, DRL light turns on; when car stops, the light will delay 28 seconds to turn off.)
- White wire connects to headlight (when headlight turns on at nights, the brightness of DRL light will decrease by half. )
- Green wire connects strobe light (connects with loudspeaker) (when driver press the loudspeaker button, DRL light will be in strobe mode)
- The two yellow wires connect to the left and right turn signals (flash simultaneously with the original turn signals)

so... It's not that difficult, isn't it?.
It would not connect the green and yellow wires though, for legallity. Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold)
1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold)
1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold)
1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold)
2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold)
2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold)

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Lost for Words wrote:

I never really see why people faff about with these DRL controllers. All you need is a relay or two.


Click image to enlarge

Now, I realise there are more durable methods (i.e. transistors) but switching is not hugely frequent, so relay life shouldn't be an issue, and the cheap chinese controllers are not exactly "high quality", and if you use a standard relay, you can at least pop down to Halfords etc. should it need replacing and stick a new one straight in.