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Triggerfinger

Member Since: 18 Aug 2015
Location: landyrotty
Posts: 129

Refurbishing my 200 year old cottage need advice on tiling

Ive got 55sq meters to tile onto floorboards (28mm thickness) & really solid, sub floor is 9mm hardwood ply.

Btw ive only ever put down a handful of tiles (years ago lol)

1....What I would like to know is what to use to prime the ply as ive read not to use pva as it causes a barrier between the ply & adhesive can go soft if it gets wet and they could easily lift.????

2... I have one part that dips & requires levelling what type/make of levelling compound would be best.

3....What adhesive type & manufacturer to use & how much will I need.

4....What thickness of bed would I be putting down & what trowel do I need.

Tiles are 300x300 ceramic

Any tips for doing this would be great.

Ive fitted all new plumbing & solid fuel heating Including shower pump, Fitted a new bathroom & designed &
fitted a new kitchen, knocked a wall down to make it more open plan, plastered the walls & ceilings I had to
get rid of a load of artex, had to move the loft hatch as I had to open up the celing to get a bigger tank in.
Mostly rewired the place, removed all facings & skirting. removed all the years of paint & varnish & put them
through the planner (just the doors to do now

)

Im not paying someone to do the tiling as I want the glory of finishing it

I cant get near my landy until the house is finished

19th Nov 2015 4:00pm

gilarion

Member Since: 05 Dec 2013
Location: Wales
Posts: 5085

2007 Defender 90 Other CSW Trident Green

First you cannot tile on floorboards you will need to cover any floorboards with 13mm-thick exterior grade plywood fixed with countersunk screws, the other areas where you say you have 9mm ply is not thick enough for floor tiles . I have never primed the plywood as the tile adhesive that you will be using is waterproof. The dip in the floor will probably be no problem after you have laid the plywood, put place some packing under the plywood when you lay it so as not to create a bounce effect to the floor………..

So as not to type loads of advice for you one of the best guides to laying floor tiles is to be found here

http://www.diy.com/help-advice/how-to-tile...100035.art For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at..

http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1

19th Nov 2015 4:41pm

Triggerfinger

Member Since: 18 Aug 2015
Location: landyrotty
Posts: 129

Ok thanks the dip in the floor is a problem, where the kitchen extension is a concrete floor & has a slightly different
level (I missed that part on the first post ooopps sorry) & dips I can use an extra piece of ply but the edges would need filling im not sure that using extra adhesive to make it level would work or use some sort of self levelling compound??

I had a company out a while ago to have a look they assured me the floor was sound enough with the 9mm hard wood ply?? the bathroom floor had the same and was down for 10 years with no problems. They wanted 1500 quid just for
labour that's 1500 quid I could spent on my landy

Thanks Kev

19th Nov 2015 5:08pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19677

You'll need castellated trowl or spreader for the tile adhesive.

I'd tape the jobs in the ply too, think there is some that's used on plasterboard but can't think of the name.
Wickes do a good range of everything you need.

Depends on the size you need, but they do pre-mixed adhesives and grout or powder form to mix.
Follow all instructions and you should be fine.

All of the above post seems concise to me too. Agree 100%

19th Nov 2015 5:09pm

LEZ

Member Since: 22 Oct 2015
Location: London
Posts: 163

I usually use Bal primer for the external ply, most decent tile shops sell it.

One serious word of advice, get yourself some cushioned rubber knee pads (screwfix do some good cheap ones) they will save your knees from getting messed up like mine are from too much floor tiling.

19th Nov 2015 5:11pm

stew 46

Member Since: 26 Jan 2012
Location: Wadebridge ,cornwall .
Posts: 561

2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Bonatti Grey

Hi stew here , spend 99% of my time on disco 3 as that's what I drive

Tiles on a wood floor , I hope your floor hasn't got a lot of spring in it ? , I'm taking it's a ground floor ? , you will need to fix a 6mm tile board on the floor first , you can get this from most builders merchants or the likes of topps tiles , then you will need to use a flexible adhesive and a flexible grout , don't use the pre mix tubs because it's not the same and doesn't work

.
I've been in the building trade for over 30 years and we do a lot of tiling

Stew

19th Nov 2015 5:24pm

Triggerfinger

Member Since: 18 Aug 2015
Location: landyrotty
Posts: 129

custom90steve wrote:
You'll need castellated trowl or spreader for the tile adhesive.

I'd tape the jobs in the ply too, think there is some that's used on plasterboard but can't think of the name.
Wickes do a good range of everything you need.

Depends on the size you need, but they do pre-mixed adhesives and grout or powder form to mix.
Follow all instructions and you should be fine.

All of the above post seems concise to me too. Agree 100%

Ta much steve I put "castellated trowl" into my browser and got Viagra

19th Nov 2015 5:30pm

Triggerfinger

Member Since: 18 Aug 2015
Location: landyrotty
Posts: 129

LEZ wrote:
I usually use Bal primer for the external ply, most decent tile shops sell it.

One serious word of advice, get yourself some cushioned rubber knee pads (screwfix do some good cheap ones) they will save your knees from getting messed up like mine are from too much floor tiling.

Knee pads added to the list nice one Ta much for the tip on Bal primer

19th Nov 2015 5:32pm

Triggerfinger

Member Since: 18 Aug 2015
Location: landyrotty
Posts: 129

stew 46 wrote:
Hi stew here , spend 99% of my time on disco 3 as that's what I drive

Tiles on a wood floor , I hope your floor hasn't got a lot of spring in it ? , I'm taking it's a ground floor ? , you will need to fix a 6mm tile board on the floor first , you can get this from most builders merchants or the likes of topps tiles , then you will need to use a flexible adhesive and a flexible grout , don't use the pre mix tubs because it's not the same and doesn't work .
I've been in the building trade for over 30 years and we do a lot of tiling

Stew

Hi Stew the floor has no noticeable spring and is a ground floor even with my fat a$$ bouncing on it ,very solid even more so with the ply on it, I can just leave the ply down & use tile board on top since I cant return it full of holes

Thanks for the tip on the pre mix

19th Nov 2015 5:38pm

ARC99

Member Since: 19 Feb 2013
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 1831

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Cairns Blue

The recommendation for the screw spacing when fastening down the exterior or marine ply is 6" on centre, i.e. no screw is more than 6" away from the next. When I did the bathroom I made a jig out of scrap ply as it saved on all that measuring, the ply needs to be top quality so as to avoid voids in the ply. If the dip is not to bad you can level it with tile adhesive first so that the floor is level. Don't make old people mad.
We don't like being old in the first place,
so it doesn't take much to

us off.

Richard

19th Nov 2015 5:42pm

gilarion

Member Since: 05 Dec 2013
Location: Wales
Posts: 5085

Triggerfinger wrote:

Ta much steve I put "castellated trowl" into my browser and got Viagra

I believe you only use that product if laying a hard core floor or to perk up a sagging tiled floor

For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at..

http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1

19th Nov 2015 5:44pm

Triggerfinger

Member Since: 18 Aug 2015
Location: landyrotty
Posts: 129

ARC99 wrote:
The recommendation for the screw spacing when fastening down the exterior or marine ply is 6" on centre, i.e. no screw is more than 6" away from the next. When I did the bathroom I made a jig out of scrap ply as it saved on all that measuring, the ply needs to be top quality so as to avoid voids in the ply. If the dip is not to bad you can level it with tile adhesive first so that the floor is level.

Good idea for the jig thanks il have a very good look at the dip & measure the difference before doing anything

Thanks matey

19th Nov 2015 5:52pm

Triggerfinger

Member Since: 18 Aug 2015
Location: landyrotty
Posts: 129

gilarion wrote:
Triggerfinger wrote:

Ta much steve I put "castellated trowl" into my browser and got Viagra

I believe you only use that product if laying a hard core floor or to perk up a sagging tiled floor

Just what I need more hardwood

19th Nov 2015 6:07pm

ickle

Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1732

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White

Ceramic tiles on a ground floor?

Porcelain surely for longevity & flexibility.

Good luck!

19th Nov 2015 7:11pm

ickle

Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1732

And as another thought, if you spread the floor with the notched trowel in straight lines, then spread the back of the tile at 90 degrees, you will get good coverage and adhesion.

Also Topps sell leveling clips, really useful and save lots of time, with about 550 tiles to lay, I bet that £1500 starts to look very reasonable at tile number 295!

19th Nov 2015 7:44pm

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