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DaftOldGit



Member Since: 20 Sep 2015
Location: London
Posts: 50

United Kingdom 
Wheel centre bore
I've just had 4 new steel wheels delivered with new tyres from a well known supplier.
The stud pattern seems fine, but the centre bore is about 10mm bigger than standard. This means that the weight of the vehicle is purely on the studs and not on the hub.
The supplier reckons that all aftermarket steel wheels are like this and that they supply Craddocks etc, and they're completely fine.

Am I right to be concerned? I'd like your opinions please!
Post #479888 7th Dec 2015 9:57am
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I Like Old Skool



Member Since: 23 Feb 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 773

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi ST Coniston Green
Pretty sure all the 8-spokes and modular style steel wheels that I have owned have been like this so not something you should worry about (in my opinion Thumbs Up ).
Post #479925 7th Dec 2015 12:03pm
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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
take a pic and post it up?

Should be fine, my modulars don't put anything onto the center of the hub and is done on the studs and nuts alone and has been for years and years!

Just remember to torque them up correctly and check them ever now and then as per regular maintenance. Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197

Self confessed mileage hunter Very Happy
Post #479945 7th Dec 2015 2:15pm
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Cuthbert



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: Up North
Posts: 1535

Interesting question from Daftoldgit and I look forward to a forum member with the relevant engineering qualifications enlightening us.

The physics behind attaching the wheel to the hub and the forces applied in usage should prove interesting.

Certainly it makes life easier when attaching a wheel if the diameter of the centre hole is only slightly greater than the centre hub - as that can take the weight off the wheel whilst you get the studs aligned and nuts tightened.
Post #480100 7th Dec 2015 10:12pm
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DaftOldGit



Member Since: 20 Sep 2015
Location: London
Posts: 50

United Kingdom 
Thank-you for your input. I can't take a picture as I've put the original LR wheels back on.

It seems that it is perfectly normal and thousands of us are driving on steel rims that don't locate on the hub and just rely on the wheel nuts self centring in their holes and the studs taking all the weight. That's not to say that it's right though.

After doing a bit of google research, I've found that it's normal for aftermarket alloy wheels to be supplied with the appropriate "spiggot rings" to ensure that the wheel is perfectly centred on the hub, so I wonder why not with these steel wheels.
Post #480165 8th Dec 2015 8:44am
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rustyboxx



Member Since: 08 Oct 2012
Location: Poole
Posts: 548

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Montalcino Red
The difference between steel wheels and alloys is the profile of the wheel nuts. Steel wheels generally have tapered nuts that centre the wheel and effectively hold it captive on the studs. Therefore, the bore size isn't so critical.

However, this isn't the case with alloy wheels as the wheel nuts are not tapered. Whilst the nuts hold the wheel to the hub, it is the bore that usually fits tightly around the hub collar and centres the wheel on the hub. In the case of some Zu alloys I once had, the bore was slightly larger than the hub collar and it was an evil job eliminating wheel wobble despite the wheels being perfectly balanced. Unfortunately, it was not possible to get spigots thin enough to pack out the gap. 2015 90 XS CSW TDCi - Beautiful
2007 110 XS DCPU - An itch that needed scratching
2005 90 Td5 XS CSW - Utterly brilliant
2001 Discovery 2 ES Auto - A phase I went through
1996 90 Tdi CSW - Uber reliable
1989 90 2.5 Petrol Hardtop - My first proper Landy
1985 Range Rover Vogue V8 -Troublesome
Post #480204 8th Dec 2015 11:12am
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